Contributed Comments |
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Dynamite (5.10a/b R)
By: Nathan Welton When: May 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The runout seems out of place, both for the route and for the crag. Not super hard climbing, but pretty dangerous fall potential, particularly considering that you're climbing on crystals that keep breaking off. Fun route nevertheless. I'd like to see another bolt in there for safety's sake.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Applied Magnetics (5.8 PG13)
By: Nathan Welton When: May 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's no reason that bolt should have been removed, but there's also no reason it should have been placed in the first place. It's right next to a crack that happily accepts lots of wires and cams. The glue-in ring bolts at the top are suspect hough. Did the person who placed them actually use glue? One of them is loose to the touch and may even pull out.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Stone Point : Stone Rock
By: Nathan Welton When: Jan 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That'd be me. I could have just totally screwed up the sequence or missed some massive jug? Lichen everywhere, holds covered in scum and a few nice (but small) foot jibs breaking off everywhere. I worked moves that went over the bulge via a left handjam and a right crimp, with a left highstep. Went immediately back right back to the seam, and directly up it. Are you supposed to veer our way left? Hard!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Stone Point : Stone Rock : The Palin Maneuver (5.11a/b)
By: Nathan Welton When: Jan 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice climb, well bolted, fun moves through the crux.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Stone Point : Stone Rock : Extreme Fishing (5.11a/b)
By: Nathan Welton When: Jan 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmm, I don't think this is an .11-
Has it ever been cleaned? It's a total choss pile at the top. The part over the bulge is very friable. Lichen on every hand and foothold. Felt like a mid to hard .12 to me.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Young William (5.12a R)
By: Nathan Welton When: Jul 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: who chopped that 'mangled lead bolt?'
too bad. it's a bit of an ankle breaker. don't fall!
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Gnome Fingers (5.10b)
By: Nathan Welton When: Jan 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dude. Put in the damn anchor. NOBODY climbs it.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Lower Mission Canyon / Seve... : Upper Theology Crag : Beggar's Banquet (5.11c/d)
By: Nathan Welton When: Jan 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: i think it's somewhere in the hard .11 range now, that top part is definitely a trick.
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