Comments: I found this route was a pretty good time. We initially were going to climb Absinthe of Mallet to the left about 50 feet of the start of this route, but it was a little hot int he sun so we decided against it and went with the mainly sport route.
The approach took us about 1.5 hours total, with some breaks. Don't let anyone fool you, the hill to the base is a killer if you are a desk jockey during the week like I am.
It took us (2 people) almost 6 hours total to do the full 6 pitches, wit... more >>
Comments: I replaced the chains and hangers on pitches #1 & #2. Now, when you RAP off pitch #2, just go directly off the edge rather than going back through the gully. It will save a massive amount of rope drag and will keep your rope from getting caught.
Comments: Not sure why this is only getting a 2 star rating. from most of what's out there is a great climb! Very slaby and the gear is very good after you get past the bolt section. Not sure why the last bolt is up there when the route should have followed the left side crack the whole way, but whatever. There are two belay bolts on climbers left at the top, look very new. There are also belay and rap anchors on climbers right as you go follow the right facing undercling flake at the top, but I'm no... more >>
Comments: Gear was pretty good. I didn't have a piece in and ended up falling 10 feet to my ass... that sucked. hopped back on and gave it the send. Two good nut placements within the first 20 feet, and great gear for the rest of it. There are are anchor bolts at the top that you can rap to the ground from. You can use this rap station to come down off of any climb on the bobcat boulder.
Comments: The bolt line and trad pro stayed surprisingly in-line together. I didn't have to extend any of the draws to keep the rope drag down until the very end when I got off route. This is a two section route, with the first three bolts being the most difficult and the trad section being more fun and adventurous. Make sure to go left up the face after the second vertical crack toward the bolts. I continued up to the 3rd vertical crack system and ran into the bush up there, and it ended up being a c... more >>
Comments: This was a pretty fun route. The beta between the second and third bolts is pretty height dependent, with neither short or tall climbers having a distinct advantage. Some of the finger locks are EXTREMELY sharp, so you might want to tape up your thumbs down finger lock fingers so they don't get torn up.
The section between the 2-3 bolts is definitely the crux, but last two bolts at the very top can be pretty difficult if your pumped as well. Make sure to shake out really well at the ledge ... more >>
Comments: Just did this climb last week and didn't see any bee activity at all. I think it's definitely seasonal so make some backup climbing plans if you run into the bees out there.
The climb was pretty great! I heard the start was the crux of the route, but it wasn't bad at all if you're taller. I'm 6'4" and was able to reach the start of the crack without any issues. If you're on the shorter side it might not be as easy. The gear is great when you get about 10-15 feet up the crack. I wasn't s... more >>
Comments: The route follows the left sided arrete on the south east side of the totem. There are 6 bolts total, with a mixture of decent nut and cam placements in between if you are not a fan of the runout. The crux in the slightly overhanging section is great and well protected. Use a 2 foot running to avoid rope drag on the last bolt. THIS ROUTE DOES NOT GO TO THE TOP! It stops on a great belay ledge right below the large roof on the left side. The summit of the totem is accessible via the Original tote... more >>
Comments: I was asked to do a quick trip report for this route because one of our friends took a pretty sweet fall and walked away!
When Austin was attempting an on-site ascent of the original Totem Route, he took a fairly substantial fall, and subsequent swing, of about 30 feet. Austin was pretty much at the 4th bolt, and stopped falling well below the second bolt on the route! It was a pretty scary experience for everyone because as he was falling, his rope ended up catching on a sharp flake or rock,... more >>
Comments: The first pitch is a mid 5.9 with a tad bit of runout with a few of the bolts (only because it's slabby and you'd most likely hit a couple ledges on the fall). The second pitch was really fun and had some technical sections. I got pretty pumped about halfway through the second pitch, so pace yourself. I also pulled off a couple good sized chunks of rock up at the top couple bolts, so be safe and wear a helmet if you belay!
Comments: I think this place deserves a bit more credit then people give it, mainly for it's location and sheer number of climbs that can be had in a single day. We were there for roughly 2 hours and were able to climb (sport, trad and TR) 4 climbs, with rest times and ample water breaks. Is the rock perfect? Absolutely not, it's very loose in some areas and the sandstone starts to rub off in the pockets, but that's sandstone for you. Many of the cracks protect very well, so if your a fan of trad clim... more >>
Comments: GRANITE MOUNTAIN IS CLOSED UNTIL JULY 15th! If you're planning a trip out here be sure you do not plan on going until next fall when it's not ridiculously hot. Peregrine falcon nesting and whatnot :(
Comments: I took a couple videos at the second belay, sorry for the shaky cam work. Need to invest in a go-pro :)
Ran up this climb with a friend on 1/29/2012 and it was a great trip.
The hike up was interesting b/c we took a few wrong turns hiking the wash and got lost. Make sure you turn left at the fork in the trail and start the hike up the hill towards Tom's Thumb rather than going right and hiking up the wash. About two miles up the Tom's Thumb Trail there will be a... more >>
Comments: We climbed the hand on New Years Eve day 2011.
We got to the climb at 2:30pm or so, and had to wait around a little while for some other climbers to finish.
The first pitch was about 60 feet of Class 4 scrabbling, without any bolts or pitons to clip into, so that was kinda cool. The second pitch was runout in places, sometimes with 20-25 feet between the bolts, but was easy climbing for the most part. The third pitch was belayed from a 3 foot wide ledge, and was the easier of the two real pi... more >>
Comments: BRING MORE DRAWS! The book we were using only said 6 draws were needed but I think there was a total of 9 bolts from start to finish. I had to down climb and unclip one or two to make it the whole way.
Comments: Fun climb. The start seems a bit more then 5.7 since it's such a stretch but it wasn't a problem. The bolts were spaced out pretty well but I thought the "roof" section could have been protected a bit more for a sport route. I took a brand new climber (first time on real rock) out to this area because of the reviews of this route were good. He had issues with the roof section but I'll chalk that up to climbing ability.