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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : The Sand Traverse Boulder (... : Sand Traverse (V2)
By: Nate Young When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's possible to traverse around the whole boulder using the top lip. It's really fun, but tiring, so go fast.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Drop 'em South (5.9)
By: Nate Young When: Jan 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route follows the left sided arrete on the south east side of the totem. There are 6 bolts total, with a mixture of decent nut and cam placements in between if you are not a fan of the runout. The crux in the slightly overhanging section is great and well protected. Use a 2 foot running to avoid rope drag on the last bolt. THIS ROUTE DOES NOT GO TO THE TOP! It stops on a great belay ledge right below the large roof on the left side. The summit of the totem is accessible via the Original tote... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Pathological Optimist (5.10)
By: Nate Young When: Dec 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: All of the beta for The Original Totem line works for this, just walk around the corner and you will see the first both up on the set of staircase ledges on the left hand side.
There are two cruxes on this route, the first isn't too bad, just involves some high stepping.
The second crux is a bit more heady since it requires you to step out onto the top of a larger bulging section. Move further right then you would think on top of the bulge and you'll be golden.
- *A 70mm rope will allow you...
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : The Totem Pole (5.10c/d)
By: Nate Young When: Dec 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was asked to do a quick trip report for this route because one of our friends took a pretty sweet fall and walked away!
When Austin was attempting an on-site ascent of the original Totem Route, he took a fairly substantial fall, and subsequent swing, of about 30 feet. Austin was pretty much at the 4th bolt, and stopped falling well below the second bolt on the route! It was a pretty scary experience for everyone because as he was falling, his rope ended up catching on a sharp flake or rock,... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : Adios Larry (5.10b PG13)
By: Nate Young When: Nov 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is a mid 5.9 with a tad bit of runout with a few of the bolts (only because it's slabby and you'd most likely hit a couple ledges on the fall). The second pitch was really fun and had some technical sections. I got pretty pumped about halfway through the second pitch, so pace yourself. I also pulled off a couple good sized chunks of rock up at the top couple bolts, so be safe and wear a helmet if you belay!
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Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore
By: Nate Young When: Jul 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this place deserves a bit more credit then people give it, mainly for it's location and sheer number of climbs that can be had in a single day. We were there for roughly 2 hours and were able to climb (sport, trad and TR) 4 climbs, with rest times and ample water breaks. Is the rock perfect? Absolutely not, it's very loose in some areas and the sandstone starts to rub off in the pockets, but that's sandstone for you. Many of the cracks protect very well, so if your a fan of trad clim... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain
By: Nate Young When: Feb 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: GRANITE MOUNTAIN IS CLOSED UNTIL JULY 15th! If you're planning a trip out here be sure you do not plan on going until next fall when it's not ridiculously hot. Peregrine falcon nesting and whatnot :(
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Gardeners Wall : Hanging Gardens (5.5)
By: Nate Young When: Feb 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I took a couple videos at the second belay, sorry for the shaky cam work. Need to invest in a go-pro :)
Ran up this climb with a friend on 1/29/2012 and it was a great trip.
The hike up was interesting b/c we took a few wrong turns hiking the wash and got lost. Make sure you turn left at the fork in the trail and start the hike up the hill towards Tom's Thumb rather than going right and hiking up the wash. About two miles up the Tom's Thumb Trail there will be a... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Northwest Pinnacles : ... : Standard Route (5.8+ R)
By: Nate Young When: Jan 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can anyone say if the belay stations are protected with bolts or are these self placed gear anchors?
Edit: Just ran up this route. All belay stations are new bolts with chains.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Northwest Pinnacles : ... : Photo
By: Nate Young When: Jan 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure what the point of that placement is :P
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Northwest Pinnacles : ... : Razor's Edge (5.6)
By: Nate Young When: Jan 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We climbed the hand on New Years Eve day 2011.
We got to the climb at 2:30pm or so, and had to wait around a little while for some other climbers to finish.
The first pitch was about 60 feet of Class 4 scrabbling, without any bolts or pitons to clip into, so that was kinda cool. The second pitch was runout in places, sometimes with 20-25 feet between the bolts, but was easy climbing for the most part. The third pitch was belayed from a 3 foot wide ledge, and was the easier of the two real pi... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Camelback Mountain : The Praying Monk : East Face (5.7 PG13)
By: Nate Young When: Dec 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: BRING MORE DRAWS! The book we were using only said 6 draws were needed but I think there was a total of 9 bolts from start to finish. I had to down climb and unclip one or two to make it the whole way.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Lookout Mountain : Devil in Disguise (5.10b)
By: Nate Young When: Dec 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb. The rock is pretty solid and the roof was a challenge, but not strenuous at all. I would recommend it for anyone who can lead a moderate roof.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Lookout Mountain : Pushin' Your Luck (5.9- PG13)
By: Nate Young When: Dec 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great warmup route for an experienced leader. I would shy away from this lead for the novices just because of the cruxy first bolt clip and the potential hill tumble if you miss it.
Three good bolts to two solid anchors up top. The anchors are on the vertical wall with good angles for a top-rope belay setup. You CAN walk off this route if you wanted to but it's a bit hairy.
You can find this route immediately to the right of Unknown 5.7, another very popular route on this wall. If you wa... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Lookout Mountain : Unknown (5.7)
By: Nate Young When: Dec 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb. The start seems a bit more then 5.7 since it's such a stretch but it wasn't a problem. The bolts were spaced out pretty well but I thought the "roof" section could have been protected a bit more for a sport route. I took a brand new climber (first time on real rock) out to this area because of the reviews of this route were good. He had issues with the roof section but I'll chalk that up to climbing ability.
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