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Just about to clip the 4th bolt.  We decided to climb the first section without any pro in order to negate some pretty heavy rope drag at the top.  It's easy climbing so just have a spotter at the bottom.  The belay ledge is fantastic!


Member Since: Dec 31, 2011
Last Visit: Sep 22, 2014
Contact Nate Young


Point Rank: # 728
Total Points: 878
Last Year: 253
Last 30 Days: 3
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 282 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 168 | Page Improvements | Comments 28 | Posts 2 | Stars 42 | Ratings 41
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Coatimundi Whiteout (5.11a)
By: Nate Young When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: youtu.be/6Nr945jxzBU

The off-width at the beginning of the second pitch was pretty difficult. Doug decided to try to face climb around the left and he fell about 10 feet up.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Swiss Wall : Yarlsberg (5.10a)
By: Nate Young When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: The start is a crux section depending on how tall you are. I'm 6'4" so the reach wasn't much of an issue. I felt the crux was up toward the 5-6th bolt where you have to traverse right a little bit and snag a very short vertical crack that lets you hit the higher ledge.

Not really a classic in my mind, but the Swiss wall is always super shady, so it's a great option when it's hot out.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Solitude Canyon : ... : Man On the Moon (5.10-)
By: Nate Young When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: We decided to do this route because it looked like a fun multipitch climb to do when it's still super hot in the valley. The hike up wasn't too bad, but it was pretty hot in the sun so we took frequent stops along the way.

We met another party at the base who had just come down from this route. They suggested we link up the first and second pitches, which we decided to do since doing a mid-belay in the afternoon sun didn't sound fun. This was an OK idea except for the wind picking up when ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : The Peacemaker (5.10a)
By: Nate Young When: Mar 27, 2014

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Comments: I found this route was a pretty good time. We initially were going to climb Absinthe of Mallet to the left about 50 feet of the start of this route, but it was a little hot int he sun so we decided against it and went with the mainly sport route.

The approach took us about 1.5 hours total, with some breaks. Don't let anyone fool you, the hill to the base is a killer if you are a desk jockey during the week like I am.

It took us (2 people) almost 6 hours total to do the full 6 pitches, wit... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Eagletail Mountains : Courthouse Rock : Idiopathic (5.9- PG13)
By: Nate Young When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: I replaced the chains and hangers on pitches #1 & #2. Now, when you RAP off pitch #2, just go directly off the edge rather than going back through the gully. It will save a massive amount of rope drag and will keep your rope from getting caught.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : AMC Boulder : Mickey Mantle (5.8+)
By: Nate Young When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: We decided to do the left to right traverse entrance to Mickey Mantle. It was alot of fun and a recommended way to get to the mantle section.

Video of Climbing Mickey Mantle.



Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : AMC Boulder : Varicose (5.6 PG13)
By: Nate Young When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: That was a fun route. Didn't feel sketchy at all. A #5 at the bottom is great, but it's not required if you are OK with standing up in the flake to place a #4 up high.

Video of Climbing Varicose.



Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Little Granite Mountain : The Loaf : Young Monkeys (5.7)
By: Nate Young When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: Not sure why this is only getting a 2 star rating. from most of what's out there is a great climb! Very slaby and the gear is very good after you get past the bolt section. Not sure why the last bolt is up there when the route should have followed the left side crack the whole way, but whatever. There are two belay bolts on climbers left at the top, look very new. There are also belay and rap anchors on climbers right as you go follow the right facing undercling flake at the top, but I'm no... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Little Granite Mountain : Bobcat Boulder : Snakes are Poodles Too (5.8)
By: Nate Young When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: Gear was pretty good. I didn't have a piece in and ended up falling 10 feet to my ass... that sucked. hopped back on and gave it the send. Two good nut placements within the first 20 feet, and great gear for the rest of it. There are are anchor bolts at the top that you can rap to the ground from. You can use this rap station to come down off of any climb on the bobcat boulder.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Little Granite Mountain : Bobcat Boulder : Grin & Bear It (5.7)
By: Nate Young When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: Fun route. If you're not very experienced with slab climbing this is a good one to start out with. The runout at the top is not biggie, it's super shallow rock.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : West Clear Creek : Anti-Crag : Heckle and Jive (5.11b)
By: Nate Young When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: The bolt line and trad pro stayed surprisingly in-line together. I didn't have to extend any of the draws to keep the rope drag down until the very end when I got off route. This is a two section route, with the first three bolts being the most difficult and the trad section being more fun and adventurous. Make sure to go left up the face after the second vertical crack toward the bolts. I continued up to the 3rd vertical crack system and ran into the bush up there, and it ended up being a c... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : West Clear Creek : Anti-Crag : Sweet Singularity (5.10c)
By: Nate Young When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: This was a pretty fun route. The beta between the second and third bolts is pretty height dependent, with neither short or tall climbers having a distinct advantage. Some of the finger locks are EXTREMELY sharp, so you might want to tape up your thumbs down finger lock fingers so they don't get torn up.

The section between the 2-3 bolts is definitely the crux, but last two bolts at the very top can be pretty difficult if your pumped as well. Make sure to shake out really well at the ledge ... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Sven Slab : One for the Road (5.6)
By: Nate Young When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: Just did this climb last week and didn't see any bee activity at all. I think it's definitely seasonal so make some backup climbing plans if you run into the bees out there.

The climb was pretty great! I heard the start was the crux of the route, but it wasn't bad at all if you're taller. I'm 6'4" and was able to reach the start of the crack without any issues. If you're on the shorter side it might not be as easy. The gear is great when you get about 10-15 feet up the crack. I wasn't s... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : The Sand Traverse Boulder (... : Sand Traverse (V2)
By: Nate Young When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: It's possible to traverse around the whole boulder using the top lip. It's really fun, but tiring, so go fast.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Drop 'em South (5.9)
By: Nate Young When: Jan 20, 2013

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Comments: The route follows the left sided arrete on the south east side of the totem. There are 6 bolts total, with a mixture of decent nut and cam placements in between if you are not a fan of the runout. The crux in the slightly overhanging section is great and well protected. Use a 2 foot running to avoid rope drag on the last bolt. THIS ROUTE DOES NOT GO TO THE TOP! It stops on a great belay ledge right below the large roof on the left side. The summit of the totem is accessible via the Original tote... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Pathological Optimist (5.10)
By: Nate Young When: Dec 31, 2012

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Comments: All of the beta for The Original Totem line works for this, just walk around the corner and you will see the first both up on the set of staircase ledges on the left hand side.

There are two cruxes on this route, the first isn't too bad, just involves some high stepping.

The second crux is a bit more heady since it requires you to step out onto the top of a larger bulging section. Move further right then you would think on top of the bulge and you'll be golden.

  • *A 70mm rope will allow you...
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : The Totem Pole (5.10c/d)
By: Nate Young When: Dec 31, 2012

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Comments: I was asked to do a quick trip report for this route because one of our friends took a pretty sweet fall and walked away!

When Austin was attempting an on-site ascent of the original Totem Route, he took a fairly substantial fall, and subsequent swing, of about 30 feet. Austin was pretty much at the 4th bolt, and stopped falling well below the second bolt on the route! It was a pretty scary experience for everyone because as he was falling, his rope ended up catching on a sharp flake or rock,... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : Adios Larry (5.10b PG13)
By: Nate Young When: Nov 25, 2012

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Comments: The first pitch is a mid 5.9 with a tad bit of runout with a few of the bolts (only because it's slabby and you'd most likely hit a couple ledges on the fall). The second pitch was really fun and had some technical sections. I got pretty pumped about halfway through the second pitch, so pace yourself. I also pulled off a couple good sized chunks of rock up at the top couple bolts, so be safe and wear a helmet if you belay!


Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore
By: Nate Young When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: I think this place deserves a bit more credit then people give it, mainly for it's location and sheer number of climbs that can be had in a single day. We were there for roughly 2 hours and were able to climb (sport, trad and TR) 4 climbs, with rest times and ample water breaks. Is the rock perfect? Absolutely not, it's very loose in some areas and the sandstone starts to rub off in the pockets, but that's sandstone for you. Many of the cracks protect very well, so if your a fan of trad clim... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain
By: Nate Young When: Feb 12, 2012

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Comments: GRANITE MOUNTAIN IS CLOSED UNTIL JULY 15th! If you're planning a trip out here be sure you do not plan on going until next fall when it's not ridiculously hot. Peregrine falcon nesting and whatnot :(


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Gardeners Wall : Hanging Gardens (5.5)
By: Nate Young When: Feb 3, 2012

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Comments: I took a couple videos at the second belay, sorry for the shaky cam work. Need to invest in a go-pro :)



Ran up this climb with a friend on 1/29/2012 and it was a great trip.

The hike up was interesting b/c we took a few wrong turns hiking the wash and got lost. Make sure you turn left at the fork in the trail and start the hike up the hill towards Tom's Thumb rather than going right and hiking up the wash. About two miles up the Tom's Thumb Trail there will be a... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Northwest Pinnacles : ... : Standard Route (5.8+ R)
By: Nate Young When: Jan 2, 2012

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Comments: Can anyone say if the belay stations are protected with bolts or are these self placed gear anchors?

Edit: Just ran up this route. All belay stations are new bolts with chains.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Northwest Pinnacles : ... : Photo
By: Nate Young When: Jan 2, 2012

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Comments: Not sure what the point of that placement is :P


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Northwest Pinnacles : ... : Razor's Edge (5.6)
By: Nate Young When: Jan 2, 2012

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Comments: We climbed the hand on New Years Eve day 2011.

We got to the climb at 2:30pm or so, and had to wait around a little while for some other climbers to finish.

The first pitch was about 60 feet of Class 4 scrabbling, without any bolts or pitons to clip into, so that was kinda cool. The second pitch was runout in places, sometimes with 20-25 feet between the bolts, but was easy climbing for the most part. The third pitch was belayed from a 3 foot wide ledge, and was the easier of the two real pi... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Camelback Mountain : The Praying Monk : East Face (5.7 PG13)
By: Nate Young When: Dec 31, 2011

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Comments: BRING MORE DRAWS! The book we were using only said 6 draws were needed but I think there was a total of 9 bolts from start to finish. I had to down climb and unclip one or two to make it the whole way.


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