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Nate Weitzel


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 30, 2014
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Point Rank: # 712
Total Points: 905
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 0
34 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Nate Weitzel been climbing?










Contributions


All 225 | Routes 59 | Areas 11 | Photos 14 | Page Improvements | Comments 80 | Posts 1 | Stars 60 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Choss Family Robinson (5.11c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 6, 2001

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Comments: I thought I overheard someone talking this summer about having replaced the hardware on this route. I haven't been on it since to verify, but the gear may have been fixed.




Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Eliminator Boulder : Left Eliminator (V5)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Oct 22, 2001

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Comments: As far as the V scale goes, I always thought a V5 move = V5 regardless of the protection. The difference is that if you do the Pinch Overhang, it carries much more mental kick than a V5 like the Punk Rock Traverse because of the mental aspect of the problem. The same goes for a 5.11 at Table Mountain, vs a 5.11 classic in Eldo. Moves should be graded objectively, but the classic nature of a route and the bragging rights that go along with completing a scary route is what gives the route its f... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchy in the UK (5.12b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Sep 22, 2001

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Comments: I would say this this route rates in very close to its neighbor, Anarchy Rules. It definitely has some spook to it. Having never climbing it with the above mentioned fin I don't know how it used to feel but I would still stick with the 12b rating.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Monkey Wrench (5.11c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Sep 22, 2001

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Comments: Based on the above comments, I tried route again and will now disagree with myself. This is quite a good route and I agree that it seems to be good training for the other routes on the wall. I guess I had a bad day when I tried it the first time around! Thanks for the comments and stimulus to get on this one again.......


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : White Water (5.12b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Sep 5, 2001

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Comments: Correct.....while not a car sized ledge, it is big enough for a no hands rest, although some balance is needed, so this qualifies as huge in my book.....


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : The Resolution (5.11c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 30, 2001

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Comments: I agree that there is much more to describe a routes challenge and nature than the perfect beta and conditions. This is what makes sustained, versus bouldery versus endurance routes. Also it is what makes a route a three star classic, vs choss pile. I submit that the subjective nature of each climb is what makes them memorable for the climber, but the number grade should still be a quantitative measure of the approximate difficulty, under defined conditions. This is not to measure the size of... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : The Resolution (5.11c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 29, 2001

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Comments: Comment on Grading: It seems as if there are different ideas of how the route should be graded. Many areas (ie Rifle) place the grade using the best beta possible, with the perfect conditions and having the beta in hand; ie "wired". This means a practiced redpoint. My opinion is that this is the appropriate way to grade a route. That said, an onsight often uses harder beta and many times less than perfect conditions, and is therefore much more impressive if someone does onsight the... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Little Bear (5.11b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 20, 2001

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Comments: Just a comment on the Anonymous words about "route setters". This web page and comment section is not meant to be derogatory in any way. You can express your feelings about bolting, but do do in a civil manner. There are plenty of roadside crags throughout the country with many bolts on it. Some may argue that there are too many, but it is entirely up to the FA party to decide. If they feel like placing a comfy bolt spacing of four feet, more power to them, it is their dollar. Wisdom in the... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Tropics : Mega Traverse (V6)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 9, 2001

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Comments: Keep in mind that V4 is 5.12-, and V5 is mid range 5.12. The original version fell within this range, although there have been some holds broken over the years, making little bits of it harder. Definitely an endurance boulder problem reminiscent of some shorter climbs in the area.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Finger Prince (5.13a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 9, 2001

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Comments: I have been nervouse about this one for a while, it looks to be quite a challenge. Good to know that you have the sausage finger gene as well.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Hazardous Waste (5.11d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 9, 2001

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Comments: Based on your wingspan you may be average, although if one looks at your climbing resume, it would be difficult to assign the words average to any aspect f your climbing.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Hazardous Waste (5.11d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 8, 2001

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Comments: Alan:

The horn beta is what I use, and that is why it feels easier since I can skip those nasty little crimps. I hated the route until I figured this beta out!




Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Tropics : Mega Traverse (V6)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 7, 2001

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Comments: Years ago this grade was only V3/4, and is the version you described, with all the holds on. The V7 version is an eliminate version of the Mega that is quite a bit more desperate.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Moving Out (5.12b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 5, 2001

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Comments: I found this route to be one of the better 12b's in the canyon. The climbing is technical, delicate, but also needs lots of power. Keep a close eye on the feet and you are well on your way to this one.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : River Dance (5.12b/c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: Chris: I would really like to meet some of these "first timers" who flash River Dance. That would be quite a sight........


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Nomad's Cave : Pizza Dick aka Mother Natu... (5.12c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: AC: Yes, that makes a bit more sense, and I think that I actually thought that might be the case when I heard the story, but thanks for the clarification.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Hot Dog (5.11b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: Having not done Road Rash roof, I can't comment on that comparison. However, the feet are solid and the hands are really much better than they look. This crux section is definitely easier than Officer Friendly (11c) at the Wall of Justice and also easier than the other 11c/d routes on the Wall of Justice. There is a 12a on Anarchy Wall that is similar, Power Trip; however, the holds are less positive on Power Trip and so it seems harder.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Fiddler on the Woof (5.12a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: I agree that this is a fun route that would not exist sans carved holds. However, it compares with Slammer at the Wall of Justice in difficulty and also is similar to Big Dog. However the transition back to the natural holds is not 12c if you dial in the feet well. Maybe we are splitting hairs in the distinction between 12a/ 12b, and also 12b /12c. Either way, when I climbed the route, the moves didn't feel harder than 12a/b.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Big Dog (5.12a/b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: Alan: I was told that the large undercling midway through the overhung section was the "enhanced hold". If this is true, then it certainly can be done without using it as I myself, and three others I have seen have done the route without this hold. Maybe I am mistaken about the actual "enhanced" hold.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Big Dog (5.12a/b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: I would submit that there are a number of climbers who have flashed the route, or done it on the second try. I know of four people who have onsighted the route (without any beta), and I know a couple of others who did on on try number 2 (myself included). I am not a climber who is able to send a 5.12c or 5.12d on the second try, hence the rating I wrote in. I discussed the rating with a number of climbers in town and everyone feels it is a 12b if you are generous, but not 12c. I think that t... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Mighty Dog (5.12c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: The rating that I listed on this route was after talking with the climber from Golden who told me that he got the First Free Ascent of the route, with Rolofson's permission. He rated it 12c. There definitely is a great no-hands rest if you find the appropriate kneebar right before you pull the crux moves. The crux is tough, but not any more difficult than any of the moves on Sucking My Will to Live at the Primo Wall. Sucking is my benchmark for 12c in the canyon as it is a tough 12c. Mighty ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : Viagra Falls (5.12b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jul 24, 2001

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Comments: It is hard to say when we talk of the ratings game. I thought White Water, while rated 12b, was easier than AKT. I onsighted White Water, while AKT took me four tries. I do agree that Viagra Falls is harder than both of the above. So maybe it is 12c, I sometimes feel that I am losing my feel for what a route should be rated!!!!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Hazardous Waste (5.11d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jul 13, 2001

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Comments: I would have to disagree about the warm up. This route can be done with good moves, no awkwardness, if the correct beta sequence is discovered. If you are pulling a super hard move at the end, keep thinking because you are using the incorrect holds. Pretty much everything up there is chalked, but that doesn't mean you should use all of those holds!!! Monkey Wrench on the other hand is purely an awkward and weird route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jul 12, 2001

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Comments: In regard to the above discussion on grading in Clear Creek, and especially TDD, I would have to agree with the concept of using Gold Standard routes to compare moves. I have tried many of the Clear Creek 12d's and 13a's, as well as having completed a number of the 12c's in the canyon. My opinion of the grade is based on these routes, and I would reference Twitch in particular. Twitch is very similar to TDD, although the crux moves are on slightly smaller holds. For this reason alone, TDD se... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Sucking My Will to Live (5.12c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jun 20, 2001

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Comments: The third bolt, while unfortunate to hang from, is well placed to be able to clip it on lead, and actually have it protect the first crux move. I would recommend not hanging from it too much (to save your rope) and being careful with your foot placement once you climb through this crux as you can easily step on the rope.


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