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Nate Weitzel


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 30, 2014
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Point Rank: # 688
Total Points: 905
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 0
34 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Nate Weitzel been climbing?










Contributions


All 225 | Routes 59 | Areas 11 | Photos 14 | Page Improvments | Comments 80 | Posts 1 | Stars 60 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Captain Crunch (5.13a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Apr 22, 2002

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Comments: I am curious, does the line start directly below the gray bolt, or is it "allowed" to traverse in from the left following the aid bolt section? Both seemed tough, but obviously not the crux so I wondered if it matters to anyone?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Kloof (5.10+)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Apr 22, 2002

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Comments: Regarding the direct start: traversing in from the left is the easiest way to gain the ledge, but the direct crack is not that tough (hard 10+). One move of insecurity, but the pro is not so good. I agree with Tony on the rest, difficult onsight as route finding is tough, as well as some difficult gear. But overall, a great route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Wendego (5.12a R)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Apr 18, 2002

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Comments: Steve:

I do agree with, and respect your premise that a bolt would change the nature of the route by making the climber 100% sure of the pro, and I can appreciate the idea of the trad climb demanding much more mental control than a similarly bolted sport route. For instance, I did X-M the other day on the Bastille, and was shaking in my boots trying to figure out the crux moves with my gear consisting of a very small questionable RP and a distant alien 15 feet below, but when I pulled it off I... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Wendego (5.12a R)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Apr 17, 2002

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Comments: While I understand the idea and concept of keeping the the route in its original condition with regard to the fixed pins, I will once again state that fixed gear is fixed gear regardless of the form it takes. It does not matter whether it is a bolt or a pin. Both pieces are relied upon by the climber for pro, with the caveat that the pin is less stable. When you add to this that the pins are 20+ years old, I consider this laughable that people actually object to replacing the gear with bolts.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Psycho (5.12+)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Mar 27, 2002

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Comments: The roof pitch of Psycho is an excellent boulder problem, way up in the air. Worked through the moves today, and pretty much agree with the above beta, just some little differences with the feet. Definitely right hand intensive. It sure feels nice to hit that final jug at the lip after all of the body tension moves to get there!!! This is really a fantastic line and it is interesting that more people don't do it, although with how loose the flakes up there are, more traffic will result in a m... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Your Mother (5.12d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Mar 27, 2002

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Comments: Spectacular route on beautiful stone. Good moves that are actually quite moderate lead you to a painfully tough throw at the end. Fun route with great fall when you miss the crux move!!!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Vapor Trail (5.9)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Feb 28, 2002

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Comments: If bolts are placed to closely for your taste, you can always skip them.......


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Maestro (5.12d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Feb 25, 2002

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Comments: Here is a slopefest if I have ever tried one. I thought this route was sweet. Fun moves up to the alcove (presto start) then an improbable sequence on slopers that do not want to let you hang on to them. The left hand undercling before the "hand jam" throw makes you laugh when you realize that one can actually use this hold. I thought the route had more resting opportunities than Anarchitect, but the difficulty of the crux may be equal or harder than the technical crux on Anarchitect. Great... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block : Battle's End (5.12c/d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Feb 12, 2002

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Comments: I will second Quinn's comments on this one. Great route, super rock, with a challenging and continuous flair. No move is so hard as to stop you in your tracks, but linking the entire sequence will take some concentration and stamina. Comparable to Anarchitect, slightly easier but with more thin moves. While the approach is not all that enjoyable, the setting is nice being on top of the mountain, away from the road. Great addition to CC. One of the top 10 routes of its grade in the canyon.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : The River Wild (5.13a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jan 10, 2002

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Comments: I believe that when I working this one day I was using the left handed finger lock that Rich used. Can't say that it was much fun, but that is how I tried it.




Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Le Toit (5.10d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Dec 20, 2001

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Comments: Did Le Tiot today. Perfect day in Eldo and this ranks as one of my favorite climbs in the canyon. The climbing was challenging, but not seriously dangerous. We linked the first two pitches as Steve recommended, and then did the Rosy link up. This is a great way to climb this route. In response to the above comment, the crux is wherever you feel it is the hardest. Personally, I thought it was sustained from the time I clipped the pin, through the bolt and then up the face crimpers.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Back in Black (5.11c/d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Dec 11, 2001

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Comments: I have only heard people calling this 11c/d. My own rating would be 11+, and I generally consider myself a sandbagger. I think 11a is quite a stretch for this one, compared to its neighbors to the right. The upper crux is thin, continuous and definitely harder than 11a. I understand the desire not to inflate routes (and egos), but it is possible to do the opposite and inflate your ego by calling this route a paltry 11a. My sermon back to you for the day.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Meteor Rhoadblock (5.12a/b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Dec 5, 2001

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Comments: Don't worry Peter, we all know that you are, in fact, a tough guy, and that tough guys do not use kneebars!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Flyer (5.12a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Dec 5, 2001

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Comments: I appreciate the value of a true hard trad climb, and hate to see these all retro bolted. I agree that marginal fixed gear (such as questionable pins and copperheads) makes for a daring lead for the FA, but is really silly and irresponsible for future climbers as this type of lead does not use soley clean gear. As such, adding bolts does not seem unreasonable. IF the FA had placed all gear on lead, without pins, then I would think differently. I know people are against seeing bolts added to o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Flyer (5.12a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Dec 4, 2001

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Comments: I don't know how this route was worked originally, but I would say that it probably would not be climbed often if still a trad route. My understanding was the FA gave permission for the retro bolting. This must have been one hell of a lead on gear.......


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Flyer (5.12a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Dec 4, 2001

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Comments: I agree with Peter on this one. Great route, tough throughout, solid for the grade. Also having never seen Peter Beal write so many sentences about a route, it must be a good one! (Just Kidding Peter)


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 28, 2001

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Comments: A 60 m rope will just barely get you to the belay tree. Manage the rope well, and the rope drag is not to heinous. Remember a couple of pieces of gear for after you pull the roof, moderate climbing but a fair amount of it.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Ice Cream Hangover (5.11b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 27, 2001

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Comments: I think this route is a good one, with challenging moves, but alas, on my first attempt I blew a clip with slack out and took a big whipper on the first two bolts you spoke of........ not the recommended way to climb this one!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Air Jordan (V5)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 23, 2001

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Comments: From all of the people that I have seen climb this problem, you can start it as I described. There is a harder version called Going to the Airport, that goes from both underclings up to the crimp, and then directly to the upper sloper without a match (V7). The Air Jordan beta is from many people I have talked with, however if you put up the problem and did it off both underclings then I stand corrected; but since you failed to provide a name, who can tell.




Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 18, 2001

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Comments: I will second Peter's description. This is a fantastic route that makes you earn every move. Save some juice for the final redpoint crux near the top!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : Evil (5.13b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 13, 2001

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Comments: I think Evil holds as one of the more solid climbs of its grade in the canyon, and as one of the best. It has some great moves with the overhanging climbing being both technical and powerful. The lip crux however has repeatedly shut me down, and I think it must take some stronger fingers than mine to get it. The caution is well advised due to location and loose rock on the belay, but this route is superb.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Twitch (5.12d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 11, 2001

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Comments: I heard that someone stole the anchor biners I put in. Does anyone know about this?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Twitch (5.12d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 11, 2001

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Comments: Peter: Good to hear that you think it is a stout 12d. I did think that the crux was quite thin, but it is short lived. Hard to tell what it should be rated, 12d/13a for sure.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Curvaceous (5.11c/d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 11, 2001

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Comments: I would second Chris, good route to onsight, lots of good rests, but the hard moves are straightforward. On par with Refer Madness in difficulty, although the style is vastly different.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchy in the UK (5.12b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 10, 2001

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Comments: Anarchitect is solid 12+, i agree. This route is either 12a/b or lets just call it 12-.


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