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Nate Weitzel


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 30, 2014
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Point Rank: # 716
Total Points: 905
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 0
34 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Nate Weitzel been climbing?










Contributions


All 225 | Routes 59 | Areas 11 | Photos 14 | Page Improvements | Comments 80 | Posts 1 | Stars 60 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cary Granite (5.11c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Did Carey Granite today with Quinn Stevens. This is a fantastic route and one that I have been wanting to do for a while. Truly each pitch is great, good climbing, excellent position and exposure, and fun. The traverse is a bit heady After trying using the "high" beta and falling, I used the crimps for my hands (low beta) and definitely think this is the best and most secure way. Really not too bad. The hand crack out the roof is awesome.

As for the gear, I really liked having both a @POU... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : $00pr kr33m (5.13-)
By: Nate Weitzel When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: Quinn Stevens and I replaced most of the draws on this route. There are a couple that we replaced only the clipping biner. All biners were in pretty bad shape with sharp grooves. Enjoy.


Location: CO : New Hard Line on Mt Evans i...
By: Nate Weitzel When: Sep 21, 2007

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Comments: Way to go Piz! Nice send.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Wet Dream (5.12a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jul 5, 2007

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Comments: Added lowering hooks to the anchor of this route, now it is quite nice to just clip and lower off.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Reefer Madness (5.11a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jul 5, 2007

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Comments: Added some lowering hooks to the anchors of this one. Left the old chains in place in case people don't like the new hooks.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : The Great Escape (5.12c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jul 5, 2007

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Comments: I have added a third fixed chain under the roof. This should provide some additional protection if cleaning the route from only the fixed chains, since the bolt under the roof (now middle chain) seems a bit suspect. I do not have the knowledge to replace a bolt without really messing up the rock, but this bolt may well qualify for some help.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Y2K (5.12c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jun 24, 2007

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Comments: I first climbed this route years ago, but only did it once as I botched the rope management, had heinous rope drag, and then got distracted to do other things. Now I have gone back to this one, and the while the rope management adds to the complexity of the climb, making you actually plan your route a bit, I think it makes for a more interesting day. Overall, I think this line is fantastic, harder than TDD, and Great Escape, with some very fun, pumpy moves through the roof and good exposure. ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall
By: Nate Weitzel When: May 16, 2007

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Comments: So after reading about these mussy hooks, I looked into them more as Ken suggested, and they are being promoted at Owens River Gorge and by the ASCA as a preferred anchor for sport climbs such as at Anarchy Wall. When I first used these, I think I used the small one that Ken put up, but now that I look at the larger one (rated >1000 lbs), it seems to clip ok although stiff and to be ok on the rope. I will plan on putting these back up in place of the biners I installed recently. ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall
By: Nate Weitzel When: May 16, 2007

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Comments: Ken and others:

I am glad to read the history and situation. I will admit to removing the hooks on Power Trip and Hazardous Waste, and would love to get them back to you ASAP. I wanted to put in stainless steel biners or clips that were easier to clip, but didn't find them yet and was fed up with clipping the hooks. They seemed to twist my rope significantly and I felt the clip was very difficult. With regard to the anchor position on Power Trip, my only reason for putting the clip where i... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : The Gauntlet (5.12+)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Oct 16, 2006

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Comments: This is a fantastic line, thanks to Darren for putting it in. Hard start, then sustained difficult climbing to the top on beautiful rock. This has become one of my favorite routes at the grade in CCC. Probably soft for 12d, perhaps as more people climb the route, the grade will solidify.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Wheat Thin (5.10c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Oct 9, 2006

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Comments: Excellent comments on the first ascent.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall
By: Nate Weitzel When: Sep 20, 2006

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Comments: I agree with the above comments, the re-bolting while attempting to be a service, has changed the routes and put bolts in rock in areas that are not needed. In addition, the upper anchors on Power Trip and Anarchy in the UK now cause the rope to run sharply over the edge. The added bolts, especially to the 12a/b, and the 11c are entirely out of character with the "old" routes, and are not needed. I too agree that the 12c traverse will now be much more dangerous to lead, and am glad that I fini... more >>


Location: New Alien failure?
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 30, 2006

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Comments: Everyone who is a trad climber should read the analysis that John posted about the physics and forces of climbing falls. I have been climbing for years, and taken a number of good sized whippers (one in particular onto a Orange Alien!). However I was shocked to actually look at the forces we generate with falls that are in my opinion pretty small, and then to compare those forces to the rated strength of the camming devices we reley so heavily on. I think that obviously manufacturing issues a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Oct 17, 2005

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Comments: Just curious about rappelling off the Edge, I recall rapping the route a few years back, but yesterday could not find the anchors on top so took the East Slab descent. Any info on where to rappel from? Thanks.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Mighty Dog (5.12c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Dec 12, 2002

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Comments: AC: I think you are referring to the line next to mighty dog, called fiddler on the roof. Completely manufractured holds through the roof, quite disappointing if you were not expecting it. MIghty Dog however is natural as far as I know and a worthy line that actually holds the grade of 12c. Try it.




Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Profile Wall : Stuffed Wolf (5.13b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Oct 26, 2002

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Comments: Stuffed Wolf is simply stellar. There is some loose stone on the route, likely due to the overall lack of traffic, but the moves are technical, difficult and unrelenting. Resting on this one is quite a challenge. Perhaps one of my favorite lines in CCC.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Matriarch (5.12d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Oct 6, 2002

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Comments: Matriarch is fantastic. I like both of the direct lines (matriarch and maestro) much better than presto as there is less wandering about. THe sloper crux on this one is sweet, but definitely tough. One of the best on the wall.




Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice
By: Nate Weitzel When: Sep 5, 2002

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Comments: I agree, the chains on the project seem to be an eyesore as I have never seen anyone on the route. I just wanted to make sure my reasons for the chains on Great Escape were clear.




Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice
By: Nate Weitzel When: Sep 3, 2002

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Comments: My thought is that with all the fixed rope, chalked holds etc, a couple of fixed chains is not that big of a deal. ( I am referring to the chains on the Great Escape) I generally do not consider most of the roadside crags in Clear Creek destination spots for people who are not climbers( ie birdwatchers), wall of justice in particular since it is rather hidden from view. I agree, the chains should have been painted, and I didn't paint the one that I fixed (sorry), but I was tired of shredding m... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Crystal Tower : Quartz Sports (5.12b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jun 30, 2002

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Comments: A fine climb with great rock. The first crux move is so irritating, again it has spit me off and laughed at me. Absolutely nothing there for feet, miserable. However, if you can get past this, the upper crux is fantastic, fun moves and good position make it a must do.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : D7 (5.11)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jun 18, 2002

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Comments: What a great line! The climbing on this route is superb. I loved the moderate begining pitches, followed by a stout finish. There are an amazing number of pins on the route, most of which appeared intact and relatively safe. As such, you can easily par down the leaders rack, especially for the first two or three pitches. Interesting though that as soon as the climbing gets hard, the pins disappear.....oh well can't have everything I guess.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : Temptation Arete (5.12a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: May 28, 2002

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Comments: Having read the above two comments, I must reply, although I have never even laid eyes on the route. I can certainly understand why Mr. AC did not leave a name to his comment as it is both brainless and cowardly. Yes, it certainly matters who put the bolts in and who got the FA, as well as the FFA. Many of the major routes around the country have listed both the FA party and FFA. I personally think the the person who takes the time to equip a route deserves at least as much respect as the in... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : The Great Escape (5.12c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: May 4, 2002

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Comments: There are now two fixed chains on this route, on the last two bolts. I discovered the one fixed chain, and decided to fix a second one to alleviate a problem with getting off of this route. By clipping the anchors at the top of the climb, it causes some terrible rope friction if you want to clean your draws, and is tough on the rope. Now, if you are so inclined, you can pull the roof, go up and touch the anchors, then jump. You will take one of the greatest swings around, and have two fixed c... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Finger Prince (5.13a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: May 4, 2002

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Comments: Checked this one out with Quinn yesterday, thought it was a stout climb with great moves. Tough sequence that takes quite a bit of technique. Definitely the hardest route at Wall of Justice, probably more powerful than Anarchitect, but shorter. The grade seems on par with other comparable climbs (Twitch, Anarchitect, Evil, etc) all within a letter grade or so. Sweet route that should see more traffic than it does,if you haven't tried it yet, give it a go!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Captain Crunch (5.13a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Apr 23, 2002

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Comments: Agreed, those sloper holds above the lip require good temperatures!




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