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Nate Weitzel


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 30, 2014
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Point Rank: # 697
Total Points: 905
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 0
34 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Nate Weitzel been climbing?










Contributions


All 225 | Routes 59 | Areas 11 | Photos 14 | Page Improvements | Comments 80 | Posts 1 | Stars 60 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Hot Dog (5.11b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: Having not done Road Rash roof, I can't comment on that comparison. However, the feet are solid and the hands are really much better than they look. This crux section is definitely easier than Officer Friendly (11c) at the Wall of Justice and also easier than the other 11c/d routes on the Wall of Justice. There is a 12a on Anarchy Wall that is similar, Power Trip; however, the holds are less positive on Power Trip and so it seems harder.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Fiddler on the Woof (5.12a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: I agree that this is a fun route that would not exist sans carved holds. However, it compares with Slammer at the Wall of Justice in difficulty and also is similar to Big Dog. However the transition back to the natural holds is not 12c if you dial in the feet well. Maybe we are splitting hairs in the distinction between 12a/ 12b, and also 12b /12c. Either way, when I climbed the route, the moves didn't feel harder than 12a/b.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Big Dog (5.12a/b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: Alan: I was told that the large undercling midway through the overhung section was the "enhanced hold". If this is true, then it certainly can be done without using it as I myself, and three others I have seen have done the route without this hold. Maybe I am mistaken about the actual "enhanced" hold.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Big Dog (5.12a/b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: I would submit that there are a number of climbers who have flashed the route, or done it on the second try. I know of four people who have onsighted the route (without any beta), and I know a couple of others who did on on try number 2 (myself included). I am not a climber who is able to send a 5.12c or 5.12d on the second try, hence the rating I wrote in. I discussed the rating with a number of climbers in town and everyone feels it is a 12b if you are generous, but not 12c. I think that t... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Mighty Dog (5.12c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: The rating that I listed on this route was after talking with the climber from Golden who told me that he got the First Free Ascent of the route, with Rolofson's permission. He rated it 12c. There definitely is a great no-hands rest if you find the appropriate kneebar right before you pull the crux moves. The crux is tough, but not any more difficult than any of the moves on Sucking My Will to Live at the Primo Wall. Sucking is my benchmark for 12c in the canyon as it is a tough 12c. Mighty ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : Viagra Falls (5.12b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jul 24, 2001

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Comments: It is hard to say when we talk of the ratings game. I thought White Water, while rated 12b, was easier than AKT. I onsighted White Water, while AKT took me four tries. I do agree that Viagra Falls is harder than both of the above. So maybe it is 12c, I sometimes feel that I am losing my feel for what a route should be rated!!!!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Hazardous Waste (5.11d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jul 13, 2001

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Comments: I would have to disagree about the warm up. This route can be done with good moves, no awkwardness, if the correct beta sequence is discovered. If you are pulling a super hard move at the end, keep thinking because you are using the incorrect holds. Pretty much everything up there is chalked, but that doesn't mean you should use all of those holds!!! Monkey Wrench on the other hand is purely an awkward and weird route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jul 12, 2001

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Comments: In regard to the above discussion on grading in Clear Creek, and especially TDD, I would have to agree with the concept of using Gold Standard routes to compare moves. I have tried many of the Clear Creek 12d's and 13a's, as well as having completed a number of the 12c's in the canyon. My opinion of the grade is based on these routes, and I would reference Twitch in particular. Twitch is very similar to TDD, although the crux moves are on slightly smaller holds. For this reason alone, TDD se... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Sucking My Will to Live (5.12c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jun 20, 2001

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Comments: The third bolt, while unfortunate to hang from, is well placed to be able to clip it on lead, and actually have it protect the first crux move. I would recommend not hanging from it too much (to save your rope) and being careful with your foot placement once you climb through this crux as you can easily step on the rope.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The old-school rating for this route is 10c, however the newer guide books give it 11a, so it is up in the air. The serious rating is because of the loose rock on the first two pitches. Otherwise the gear is bomber.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : No Doze (5.12c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I felt that the guidebooks rating of 12c is quite generous. It was more like 5.12a.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Hot Dog (5.11b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This route ascends the left side of the overhang, if you are facing the wall, not the right side as I wrote earlier.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Not One Of Us (5.12a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Interesting route history, Richard. Great job an a fantastic line. I think this route is one of the best for the grade, with classic moves and awesome position.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Sonic Youth (5.13a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: It is good to hear some of the history behind the ratings for this route. I had only heard talk from a number of people on what they said it was rated, hence my write up for the page and the rating comment. I think that by the time you pull that final roof move, the 13a is definitely earned.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Gear Review - Black Diamond ATC GuideClimbing Gear ReviewsNate WeitzelOct 16, 2006

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Wheat Thin 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : The Cookie Cliff

Missile V5 6C

CO : Morrison/Evergreen : ... : The Black Hole

Twitch 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

CO : Golden : ... : Twitch Rock

Vasodilator 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Right Gully

Pizza Dick aka Mother Nature 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

CO : Golden : ... : Nomad's Cave

Helicopter V5 6C

CO : Morrison/Evergreen : ... : The Black Hole

Air Loopis V8 7B

CO : Morrison/Evergreen : ... : The Black Hole

Air Jordan V5 6C

CO : Morrison/Evergreen : ... : The Black Hole

Some Biceps Are Bigger Than Others V6 7A

CO : Morrison/Evergreen : ... : The Lobby

Hang 'Em High 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

CO : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall

Defenseless Betty 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

CO : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall

Cary Granite 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Black Wall

Pressure Sensitive V8 7B

CO : Morrison/Evergreen : ... : The Black Hole

Center Route V10 7C+

CO : Morrison/Evergreen : ... : The Black Hole

Five and Dime 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Five and Dime Cliff

Salathe (pitch 1) 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : El Capitan Base Routes

Lunatic Fringe 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Reed's Pinnacle Area

Hot Dog 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CO : Golden : ... : The Dog House

Sonic Youth 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

CO : Golden : ... : The New River Wall

Idiot Wind 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CO : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress

Slammer 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

CO : Golden : ... : Wall of Justice

Miss Trial 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

CO : Golden : ... : Wall of Justice

The Great Escape 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

CO : Golden : ... : Wall of Justice

Pervertical Sanctuary 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Diamond

Vertigo 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One

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