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Nate Weitzel


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 30, 2014
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Point Rank: # 705
Total Points: 905
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 0
34 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Nate Weitzel been climbing?










Contributions


All 225 | Routes 59 | Areas 11 | Photos 14 | Page Improvements | Comments 80 | Posts 1 | Stars 60 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 28, 2001

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Comments: A 60 m rope will just barely get you to the belay tree. Manage the rope well, and the rope drag is not to heinous. Remember a couple of pieces of gear for after you pull the roof, moderate climbing but a fair amount of it.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Ice Cream Hangover (5.11b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 27, 2001

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Comments: I think this route is a good one, with challenging moves, but alas, on my first attempt I blew a clip with slack out and took a big whipper on the first two bolts you spoke of........ not the recommended way to climb this one!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Air Jordan (V5)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 23, 2001

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Comments: From all of the people that I have seen climb this problem, you can start it as I described. There is a harder version called Going to the Airport, that goes from both underclings up to the crimp, and then directly to the upper sloper without a match (V7). The Air Jordan beta is from many people I have talked with, however if you put up the problem and did it off both underclings then I stand corrected; but since you failed to provide a name, who can tell.




Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 18, 2001

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Comments: I will second Peter's description. This is a fantastic route that makes you earn every move. Save some juice for the final redpoint crux near the top!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : Evil (5.13b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 13, 2001

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Comments: I think Evil holds as one of the more solid climbs of its grade in the canyon, and as one of the best. It has some great moves with the overhanging climbing being both technical and powerful. The lip crux however has repeatedly shut me down, and I think it must take some stronger fingers than mine to get it. The caution is well advised due to location and loose rock on the belay, but this route is superb.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Twitch (5.12d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 11, 2001

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Comments: I heard that someone stole the anchor biners I put in. Does anyone know about this?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Twitch (5.12d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 11, 2001

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Comments: Peter: Good to hear that you think it is a stout 12d. I did think that the crux was quite thin, but it is short lived. Hard to tell what it should be rated, 12d/13a for sure.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Curvaceous (5.11c/d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 11, 2001

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Comments: I would second Chris, good route to onsight, lots of good rests, but the hard moves are straightforward. On par with Refer Madness in difficulty, although the style is vastly different.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchy in the UK (5.12b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 10, 2001

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Comments: Anarchitect is solid 12+, i agree. This route is either 12a/b or lets just call it 12-.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Choss Family Robinson (5.11c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Nov 6, 2001

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Comments: I thought I overheard someone talking this summer about having replaced the hardware on this route. I haven't been on it since to verify, but the gear may have been fixed.




Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Eliminator Boulder : Left Eliminator (V5)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Oct 22, 2001

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Comments: As far as the V scale goes, I always thought a V5 move = V5 regardless of the protection. The difference is that if you do the Pinch Overhang, it carries much more mental kick than a V5 like the Punk Rock Traverse because of the mental aspect of the problem. The same goes for a 5.11 at Table Mountain, vs a 5.11 classic in Eldo. Moves should be graded objectively, but the classic nature of a route and the bragging rights that go along with completing a scary route is what gives the route its f... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchy in the UK (5.12b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Sep 22, 2001

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Comments: I would say this this route rates in very close to its neighbor, Anarchy Rules. It definitely has some spook to it. Having never climbing it with the above mentioned fin I don't know how it used to feel but I would still stick with the 12b rating.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Monkey Wrench (5.11c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Sep 22, 2001

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Comments: Based on the above comments, I tried route again and will now disagree with myself. This is quite a good route and I agree that it seems to be good training for the other routes on the wall. I guess I had a bad day when I tried it the first time around! Thanks for the comments and stimulus to get on this one again.......


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : White Water (5.12b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Sep 5, 2001

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Comments: Correct.....while not a car sized ledge, it is big enough for a no hands rest, although some balance is needed, so this qualifies as huge in my book.....


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : The Resolution (5.11c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 30, 2001

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Comments: I agree that there is much more to describe a routes challenge and nature than the perfect beta and conditions. This is what makes sustained, versus bouldery versus endurance routes. Also it is what makes a route a three star classic, vs choss pile. I submit that the subjective nature of each climb is what makes them memorable for the climber, but the number grade should still be a quantitative measure of the approximate difficulty, under defined conditions. This is not to measure the size of... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : The Resolution (5.11c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 29, 2001

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Comments: Comment on Grading: It seems as if there are different ideas of how the route should be graded. Many areas (ie Rifle) place the grade using the best beta possible, with the perfect conditions and having the beta in hand; ie "wired". This means a practiced redpoint. My opinion is that this is the appropriate way to grade a route. That said, an onsight often uses harder beta and many times less than perfect conditions, and is therefore much more impressive if someone does onsight the... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Little Bear (5.11b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 20, 2001

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Comments: Just a comment on the Anonymous words about "route setters". This web page and comment section is not meant to be derogatory in any way. You can express your feelings about bolting, but do do in a civil manner. There are plenty of roadside crags throughout the country with many bolts on it. Some may argue that there are too many, but it is entirely up to the FA party to decide. If they feel like placing a comfy bolt spacing of four feet, more power to them, it is their dollar. Wisdom in the... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Tropics : Mega Traverse (V6)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 9, 2001

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Comments: Keep in mind that V4 is 5.12-, and V5 is mid range 5.12. The original version fell within this range, although there have been some holds broken over the years, making little bits of it harder. Definitely an endurance boulder problem reminiscent of some shorter climbs in the area.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Finger Prince (5.13a)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 9, 2001

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Comments: I have been nervouse about this one for a while, it looks to be quite a challenge. Good to know that you have the sausage finger gene as well.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Hazardous Waste (5.11d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 9, 2001

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Comments: Based on your wingspan you may be average, although if one looks at your climbing resume, it would be difficult to assign the words average to any aspect f your climbing.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Hazardous Waste (5.11d)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 8, 2001

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Comments: Alan:

The horn beta is what I use, and that is why it feels easier since I can skip those nasty little crimps. I hated the route until I figured this beta out!




Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Tropics : Mega Traverse (V6)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 7, 2001

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Comments: Years ago this grade was only V3/4, and is the version you described, with all the holds on. The V7 version is an eliminate version of the Mega that is quite a bit more desperate.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Moving Out (5.12b)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 5, 2001

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Comments: I found this route to be one of the better 12b's in the canyon. The climbing is technical, delicate, but also needs lots of power. Keep a close eye on the feet and you are well on your way to this one.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : River Dance (5.12b/c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: Chris: I would really like to meet some of these "first timers" who flash River Dance. That would be quite a sight........


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Nomad's Cave : Pizza Dick aka Mother Natu... (5.12c)
By: Nate Weitzel When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: AC: Yes, that makes a bit more sense, and I think that I actually thought that might be the case when I heard the story, but thanks for the clarification.


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