Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Some route at Smith Rock


Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Nate Ball


Point Rank: # 85
Total Points: 4,384
Last Year: 1,621
Last 30 Days: 186
42 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Nate Ball been climbing?










Contributions


All 1383 | Routes 209 | Areas 37 | Photos 317 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 149 | Posts 49 | Stars 406 | Ratings 214
Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : 79 Finals (Aka f--ing fall) (5.10d)
By: Nate Ball When: 8 hours ago

view comment >>
Comments: Okay so the route is published in the most recent book as "Fucking Fall." This is the name that everybody uses, including a majority of Taiwanese. Apparently Milk claims the FFA, and would prefer it to be called "79 Finals" - not "97 Finals" which makes no sense as it would have to refer to the Christian calendar, which is not what Anmin mentioned above.

For the sake of clarity, can we just list the route here as "Fucking Fall"?


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Tips City (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Oct 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fun finger crack for the first section. The rest of the route is ledgy scrambling to a single awkward bulge and contrived extension across dodgy flakes. A little hyperbole perhaps. The finger crack is fun, the rest is not so much.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (4) Spring Rock : Free Bird (5.11-)
By: Nate Ball When: Oct 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I feel the natural line goes out the mini-roof and joins Toe Cleavage. As it is, you step right to easy, dirty ledges. This would be a 3-star route if finished directly (minor run-out).


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Sandy's Direct (5.10c)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Dangerous bolts.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Loose Block Overhang (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route is best done as a single pitch to the top. If doing this, bring doubles from 1-3", a 4" piece, and some slings. The business on the offwidth down low is fun, and the crux in the middle is all of 5.9+. One last move around the final bulge gets the blood flowing before you top out. Belay off a tree or something.

Anchor bolts on this route are rather manky. Do not suggest climbing the bolted junk on the right side.


Location: OR : Pending : Depoe Bay Viewpoint Cliffs : Bolted Anchors (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Both mechanical and glue-in steel bolts have broken in limestone (Thailand), basalt (Hawaii), and sandstone (Taiwan). The only solution is titanium, which will last at least 50 years according to UIAA.

This area is subject to deletion pending any reply to the contrary.


Location: OR : Mt Hood : French's Dome : China Man (5.11b) : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Highly recommend taking your photos at a proper angle - use the trees as reference. Currently looks like climbing an easy slab, which it obviously isn't.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: You're going the wrong way!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Christian Brothers- West Si... : Hot Monkey Love (5.11a) : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Top-roping in tights. Hawt.


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Tell me more about this photo? It doesn't make a lot of sense as the cover for "North Eastern Oregon."


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: All worthless comments deleted. In the future, please isolate such banality where it belongs... in the forums.

Spring Mountain, Wallowa Mountains, and Fiddler's Hell look great.

Please add GPS locations for High Valley, Anthony Lakes, and others. Also, routes in Matterhorn. Is Elgin Wall on private property?

This classification of routes into zone - such as "Northeastern Oregon" - is actually a great idea. I may do the same with the entirety of the Oregon database.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Chain Reaction (5.12c) : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Lawl? Moved to Chain Reaction, which this obviously is.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Mesa Verde Wall : Trezlar (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: We approached via the first six bolts of Planet Luxury. 5.9ish climbing to a super-easy rightward traverse. Use runners. We also saw the previous pair climb Cosmos, belay second who continued up to the nook, then belayed again. Anchor here takes .5 and .75 down low, totally solid.

"The flake" is actually a 5'x5' guillotine-shaped patina-flake that sounds completely hollow. It has felt a lot of greasy climber fingers over the years, and with just a little TLC will feel many more. Use nuts to pro... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Chouinard's Crack (1st Half... (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: You should be able to protect above your head at the start of the vertical section. My condolences to the injured, but there is no reason to fall to the ledge 15+ feet below with an attentive belay and intelligent gear placement.

For me, the route was a one-move wonder. A solid jam leads to endless foot options. And then it's over.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Animal Farm (5.10b/c)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fair bit of scary looseness on this thing. I could only recommend it if you have to climb a 5.10 and Bay of Pigs, Let's Face It, Dancing For Clams, and Phantasmagoria are all taken. Super-awkward bouldery move to romping to a single slabby move up high. Don't fall before you make the first clip, or you'll die.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Lets Face It (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Perhaps a bolt has been added at the beginning, but the only bad fall now would be clipping the 2nd bolt, which is made from a good stance on good holds.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Piranha (5.10+)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: For the record, the bottom half of this route was bolted before 1998, so although it could be a "retro" job, it was still done before Deng Rong's crusade mid-2000's.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Stone Z (5.11-)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Now THAT is a route write-up Mr. Danger!


Location: OR : Mt Hood : Pete's Pile
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is a sweet-ass trad zone. Views of Mt. Hood's elusive east side and the rushing Hood River below. Splitter basalt columns an hour-and-a-half from Portland. Unknown predecessors have already put up a score of great climbs which are badly in need of some TLC. A crew of us will hopefully be doing some work up there in the next few months - fortifying trails, cleaning cracks, trundling widow-makers, and putting in new lines. If anybody has any questions or knows who to contact about this, pleas... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Backdrop (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Very straightforward jamming, feels quite soft with any crack technique


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Chinese Fiddle (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: An offset nut placed at the extent of my reach protected the crux overhead. Otherwise, the only pro is a tiny, shitty horizontal way off to the left. Serious ledge-fall potential if it blows.

Top section of this climb is extraordinary!


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Rated G (5.11c)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I found the bottom half to be super-simple low 5th-class climbing in a sea of bolted cracks.

Get into the dark, slimy finger slot below the roof. Do not go left, but instead straight up. Just at the turn of the overhang, there is a protruding pinch that makes for a wild long move, or some seriously heinous crimping. Once into the sharp rock above, the difficulty lets up only slightly as you gain the face.

Extremely short, technical 5.11 (more like LD 5.12+).


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : In And Out Of The Groove (5.11+)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There are MANY ways to do this climb, and the grade should be considered with this in mind...

Low crux
At the first crux, you can easily stem onto the wall behind you. If done without it, it's 11ish.

Low-mid crux
Just above the huge flake, you can continue traversing out right and pull jugs back left. You can also pull on a pebble and up to a large chunk. This is more direct, though adds a little more difficulty to the red-point. Maybe 10ish.

Mid crux
Where Above the ... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (5) Grand Auditorium : unknown unknowns (5.11)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is incredibly exciting news to hear, Greg! Who did you climb this route with?


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Shield. Too late to change it now!


Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>