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Some route at Smith Rock


Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1653 | Routes 248 | Areas 46 | Photos 398 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 168 | Posts 65 | Stars 486 | Ratings 240
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall : ... : Deep Sleep (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: 4 hours ago

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Comments: Getting into the pod just below the hand crack is the crux. The rest of the route is fun jamming and stemming.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall : ... : Heart Throb (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: 4 hours ago

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Comments: At the second roof, go right around the arete. There are hidden face holds that make it easier than finishing left.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall : ... : Schools Out (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: 4 hours ago

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Comments: You will not use gear larger than 1" on this climb, unless you have at least a #5. Very much an off-width climb.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Northern Point : ... : If I Ran the Circus (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: 4 hours ago

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Comments: I thought this to be an incredibly stiff 10b. After moving right under the roof, placing gear can be really difficult, as you're being forced away from the wall by the roof, and desperately laying back the edge without any decent jams and crazy high feet. Not terribly difficult on TR but definitely makes a heady lead.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Big Drum (5.11b)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: Hopefully everyone who climbs at LD knows that bolt failure is not a freak accident. It was just a silly turn of phrase. Some titanium has been installed (one for the anchor of Fingercrack, all the anchors at Euro Wall, and others) but many local "experts" have their doubts about its safety...


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Big Drum (5.11b)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: The anchors broke off during a freak top-roping incident yesterday. Hopefully they'll be replaced soon. Otherwise, if you trust the bolts, you can climb the line and step right to the Fingercrack anchors at the top.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Paul's Crack (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: Sinker finger-locks and straightforward toe jam for a single move, then it's just fun. Highly recommend protecting the belayer (sling a tree or place some low pro). I started up the face left of the crack before stepping back right, which may have avoided the off-the-ground crux, but there wasn't any tape to follow so it didn't feel like cheating.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : High Mountain Woody (5.8+)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: A low crux leads to crack swimming. Seriously, after the first 20 feet it's just fun climbing for what seems like forever. And then it's over, and you'll want to get right back on it. A single set of cams is plenty unless you really want to sew up the easy stuff.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Slap and Tickle (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: This is an absolute classic. Start with Gonch Pull traverse out of Stephanie's Tears for a full value 50m route. I placed 19 pieces on this route, nothing larger than a #1 C4. Definitely double up on gear from 0 Master Cam to .75 C4.

The crux comes at the top, but the climbing is fairly relentless although there are a lot of good rests.

The top traverse is indeed tricky. However, I found the protection to be super solid and not run-out at all. This doesn't make the move any less exciti... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Family (5.11)
By: Nate Ball When: Jun 9, 2015

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Comments: This route is on you from the first bolt. Use open holds and crimps with a specific sequence through a slight overhang for several moves until you snag a pebbly rail. From here you will climb three more sections of fun 5.10 broken up by ledges - not so trivial after such a pumpy start unless you really milk the rests. Fairly long and continuous by LD standards.

Bolts are 316 stainless steel from 2005 that have seen better days. 10-15 bolts including anchors.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (5) Grand Auditorium : White Handsome Devil (5.10-)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: On second go, definitely not 5.9+... except maybe by Valley standards.


Location: International : Asia : China : Hong Kong : Tung Lung Chau : ... : Green Slab (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Rebolted with titanium. There is another route to the left of this, 5.10ish, that is also a lot of fun and also with titanium bolts.


Location: International : Asia : China : Hong Kong : Tung Lung Chau : Sea Gully
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: A few routes here have been rebolted with titanium, a few more have steel glue-ins with questionable glue, but the vast majority (most of those on the Terrace) have old expansion bolts that shouldn't be trusted.

There are several other routes not listed in Climb China that are off the main deck. However, HK tour groups like to use this area for rappelling and zip-lining, and so isn't an ideal choice on sunny weekends.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Dragonslayer (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: There is a slightly harder start just above the monobridge. This climbs a thin juggy flake that joins with the route about 25 feet up. It is definitely a more enjoyable start. The book describes this as 10c, but it is 10a at most, though protection is a little tricky down low.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Come check out the climbing at the Dragon Cave!


Location: International : Asia : Malaysia : Batu Caves
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: A little beta from a brief trip here...

We stayed at the Batu Caves Budget Hotel. It was 75MYR/night for a four-person room that had air conditioning and warm showers, or 65 for a two-person. There is a really good restaurant next door serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner, as well as a 7-11 and water refill station within a two-minute walk. It's a 30-40 minute walk to any of the walls. Vertical Adventures, as well as other restaurants, grocery stores, and the Avatar Hotel (perhaps a better opti... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Malaysia : Tioman Island
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: Some beta after a brief stay here...

Getting to Mukut on Tioman is relatively straightforward, although it involves a lot of transfers. It would be advisable to make reservations ahead of time to make sure things go smoothly. Once you arrive at the airport, get to TBS station. From here, take a Transnacional bus to Mersing. The earliest is 9am, which puts you in Mersing around 3pm. The ferry, run by Blue Waters Express, usually runs once a day between 3-5pm, so you might have to hustle to the j... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: Anybody who has been to Tonsai - or any crag in a part of the world that is flooded by foreign money - understands the "context."


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (6) First Cave : Agar Jelly (5.10a/b R)
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: The rock on the first 30 feet of the first pitch is a death trap. The bolting on the entire route was obviously done on rappel by someone with no eye for a line or for safety in general. The bolts are likely dangerous beyond any semblance of reliability. It cannot be safely protected with trad gear.

That said, the route does take you into a unique position above the First Cave. However, it should never be rebolted, and I don't recommend anybody climb it... unless you like that kind of adventure... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Heart of Darkness (5.11c)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 13, 2014

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Comments: Yes it has.


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : French's Dome : Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Str... (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 8, 2014

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Comments: Finally climbed this route again. Much tougher than I expected, though the moves flow once you figure it out. Move quickly to avoid the pump! Clipping the 5th & 6th bolts can be cruxy.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Koh Toa
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: I have deleted the route "Axe Attack" (poor description anyway) so that you can add areas. Please provide good descriptions (directions, rock type, types of climbs, sun/shade, etc.) for these areas, then add whatever routes you'd like. It's all yours!


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Fucking Fall (5.10d)
By: Nate Ball When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: Okay so the route is published in the most recent book as "Fucking Fall." This is the name that everybody uses, including a majority of Taiwanese. Apparently Milk claims the FFA, and would prefer it to be called "79 Finals" - not "97 Finals" which makes no sense as it would have to refer to the Christian calendar, which is not what Anmin mentioned above.

For the sake of clarity, can we just list the route here as "Fucking Fall"?


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Tips City (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: Fun finger crack for the first section. The rest of the route is ledgy scrambling to a single awkward bulge and contrived extension across dodgy flakes. A little hyperbole perhaps. The finger crack is fun, the rest is not so much.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (4) Spring Rock : Free Bird (5.11-)
By: Nate Ball When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: I feel the natural line goes out the mini-roof and joins Toe Cleavage. As it is, you step right to easy, dirty ledges. This would be a 3-star route if finished directly (minor run-out).


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