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Some route at Smith Rock


Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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All (1130) | Routes (195) | Areas (28) | Photos (286) | Comments (113) | Posts (36) | Stars (323) | Ratings (149)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (6) First Cave : Sorry Erica (5.10c)
By: Nate Ball When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Danger, do you think the first three bolts down low are an actual line?

In my mind, the buttress has only one line which follows the weakness straight up the middle. The first three bolts on the left line force you to do some (subjectively) stupid climbing, and the last bolt on the right line is on an impossibly blank face. Thus my entry for Sorry Valentine.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : {10} Backdoor : ??? (natural line be/ new f... (5.10+)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: The bolts of Just 5.13 do seem to indicate a line to the right of the crack. However, I found that the only way to climb the bolted line was to stem up the dihedral, using the crack for holds, and clip far out to the right. This was a definite and obvious natural line, and have been meaning to go back and do it on gear.

Was the gear at the top sketchy at all?


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Guava Banana (5.11c)
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: Hey Brian! Come back, climb this route on gear, then tell us (the "hardmen") what you really think.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (6) First Cave : Wonderland Fairy (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: The glue-in bolts are staggering...


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : {10} Backdoor
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: A stick clip is highly recommended for climbing any of the hard sport routes here. The bolts aren't necessarily high, but you have to step onto a 2-meter bench and then pull super-awkward bouldery moves to mount the face on most routes.

Or just do what 阿郎 does and swing a bight of rope into your draw...


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Aus der Traum (5.10+)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: You can start this route from Teamwork and step right, from Yosemite Crack and step left, or boulder straight up the bolt line to the ledge (5.10+).

Continue straight up the obvious hand crack (10-). The long diamond-shaped flake near the top is completely detached, but is wedged into the crack. Don't place gear in it and it should be fine.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Goldline (5.11a)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: How did he get back down?


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Gold Club (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: Can be continued to the top of the wall (5.8)


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Gold Member (5.10-)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: Can be continued to the top of the wall (5.8)


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : The Snake Strikes (5.11a)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: aka Super Snake


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay East : ... : Cash Flow (5.8+)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: aka Voie du club alpine Thailand


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Phra Nang Beach : ... : Allo, La Terre (5.10a/b)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: DO NOT CLIMB! This route is protected by expansion bolts.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Kho Yao Noi
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: For those who have been here, is there an updated guidebook?

For those who haven't, Phi Phi is much better. Don't bother.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay West : ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: Guidebook amended.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Koh Laoliang : Captain Thin (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: Also known as "Captain Fat"?
- King Climbers 8th edition


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Phra Nang Beach : ... : The Best Route In Minnesota (5.11a)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: Onsight, so must be soft. This route is equipped with 316 stainless steel and Hilte 500 glue (the good kind). Although not ideal, the bolts looked far better than routes with white glue. But I guess it's not about what you can see...


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay West : ... : Crystal Flame (5.10c)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: Has the "Glowing Tunnel" pitch been rebolted with titanium as well?


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay West : ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: The 8th edition King Climbers guidebook has the routes as following...

(1) The Candlestick
(2) Crystal Flame / Glowing Tunnel
(3) The Red Line
(4) Thai Stick


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Easy Skankin' (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: This route isn't in my 8th edition King Climbers book. Where is it in relation to the other routes here?

Is it the same as Kaya?

What kind of bolts are on this route?


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Jammin' (5.10c/d)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: This route isn't in my 8th edition King Climbers book. Where is it in relation to the other routes here?


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : Cobra Wall
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: All routes rebolted with titanium by Thaitanium Project (Jan. 2014)


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : The Wave (5.10c)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: This route is stupid-popular. The accessible grade, the proximity to most lodging, the ease of descent, and the afternoon shade all come together to make this a route to never count on climbing. Our experience is likely indicative of what you will find on any given day in the high season...

We showed up at 11:30am, hoping that an hour before the route came into the shade would be early enough to cue up first. We were wrong. There was one group of three, and another group of two. The group of th... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Totem Pole (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: All of the slings, the bolt, and the anchor have been chopped from this route.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Kaohsiung : Shoushan
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: Visited recently, and there were fleas at the Bridge area, but nowhere else. They weren't too bad either.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Piranha (5.10+)
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: Top-roped this after leading Fight. This route is definitely much easier, although more continuous and less varied than its neighbor. It can basically be characterized as a series of long reaches from side to side on gigantic holds.

If this route was truly done on trad gear - and not its neighbor, which would obviously go - then it was a ballsy endeavor. The first 20' could only be protected from the first move. The next 15' take gear but would have to be slung around the arete. The ne... more >>


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