Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Some route at Smith Rock


Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact Nate Ball

Nate Ball
is a member of
Point Rank: # 68
Total Points: 5,470
Last Year: 1,507
Last 30 Days: 146
73 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Nate Ball been climbing?










Contributions


All 1693 | Routes 251 | Areas 46 | Photos 418 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 174 | Posts 72 | Stars 489 | Ratings 241
Page 1 of 7.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 23, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Any updates on what the status of a lot of the bolts is?

Rebolting should begin soon. There has yet to be a verified failure of 316 stainless, and thus life expectancy exceeds 10 years. Read through this thread if you wish to know more:
mountainproject.com/v/are-bolt...

Is it still worth going? Or are too many of the bolts of questional integrity to make it safe?

With just a little extra precaution, you will... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Kaohsiung : Shoushan Nature Park : (1c) Skyline
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Kaohsiung Climbing Community
facebook.com/groups/5547124179...

James is the guy you want to get in touch with.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Concord Tower : North Face Var. Right (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Yes to the #4! When I did it, I bumped a tipped-out #3 for the last 20'... less than ideal.

A single 60m rope works if you rap from the summit to the east, then from a tree at the notch down to an uncomfortable spot with a slung constriction, then to the 1st pitch ledge, then to the ground. Ugh.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire : SW Rib (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: After looking at several (too many) sources of info on this route, we got confused about which pitches started where. Our first mistake was to come in from above the chockstone. This is really lame, it's hard to find the traversing downclimb to the left-leaning "Wavy Crack," and this downclimb involves stepping on dead trees directly above a death-plummet. Don't do this. Start at the Y-shaped tree at the base of the wall. Didn't do this pitch so can't comment on it.

The "Wavy Crack" is a lot of... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Apron Boulders
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: No idea what that Kaboom! notice had to do with anything. It's been deleted.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Bilbo Baggins (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The original description was for a route possibly once known as "Sour Grass" but that is called "Gollum" in Bourdon's guidebook. This is the 5.7 that starts in the deep corner. I have changed the description to include what y'all have said, but kept the grade 5.9 because that's what it gets in the guidebook.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall : ... : Deep Sleep (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Getting into the pod just below the hand crack is the crux. The rest of the route is fun jamming and stemming.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall : ... : Heart Throb (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: At the second roof, go right around the arete. There are hidden face holds that make it easier than finishing left.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall : ... : Schools Out (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: You will not use gear larger than 1" on this climb, unless you have at least a #5. Very much an off-width climb.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Northern Point : ... : If I Ran the Circus (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this to be an incredibly stiff 10b. After moving right under the roof, placing gear can be really difficult, as you're being forced away from the wall by the roof, and desperately laying back the edge without any decent jams and crazy high feet. Not terribly difficult on TR but definitely makes a heady lead.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Big Drum (5.11b)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Hopefully everyone who climbs at LD knows that bolt failure is not a freak accident. It was just a silly turn of phrase. Some titanium has been installed (one for the anchor of Fingercrack, all the anchors at Euro Wall, and others) but many local "experts" have their doubts about its safety...


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Big Drum (5.11b)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The anchors broke off during a freak top-roping incident yesterday. Hopefully they'll be replaced soon. Otherwise, if you trust the bolts, you can climb the line and step right to the Fingercrack anchors at the top.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Paul's Crack (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Sinker finger-locks and straightforward toe jam for a single move, then it's just fun. Highly recommend protecting the belayer (sling a tree or place some low pro). I started up the face left of the crack before stepping back right, which may have avoided the off-the-ground crux, but there wasn't any tape to follow so it didn't feel like cheating.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : High Mountain Woody (5.8+)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A low crux leads to crack swimming. Seriously, after the first 20 feet it's just fun climbing for what seems like forever. And then it's over, and you'll want to get right back on it. A single set of cams is plenty unless you really want to sew up the easy stuff.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Slap and Tickle (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is an absolute classic. Start with Gonch Pull traverse out of Stephanie's Tears for a full value 50m route. I placed 19 pieces on this route, nothing larger than a #1 C4. Definitely double up on gear from 0 Master Cam to .75 C4.

The crux comes at the top, but the climbing is fairly relentless although there are a lot of good rests.

The top traverse is indeed tricky. However, I found the protection to be super solid and not run-out at all. This doesn't make the move any less exciti... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Family (5.11)
By: Nate Ball When: Jun 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route is on you from the first bolt. Use open holds and crimps with a specific sequence through a slight overhang for several moves until you snag a pebbly rail. From here you will climb three more sections of fun 5.10 broken up by ledges - not so trivial after such a pumpy start unless you really milk the rests. Fairly long and continuous by LD standards.

Bolts are 316 stainless steel from 2005 that have seen better days. 10-15 bolts including anchors.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (5) Grand Auditorium : White Handsome Devil (5.10-)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: On second go, definitely not 5.9+... except maybe by Valley standards.


Location: International : Asia : China : Hong Kong : Tung Lung Chau : ... : Green Slab (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Rebolted with titanium. There is another route to the left of this, 5.10ish, that is also a lot of fun and also with titanium bolts.


Location: International : Asia : China : Hong Kong : Tung Lung Chau : Sea Gully
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A few routes here have been rebolted with titanium, a few more have steel glue-ins with questionable glue, but the vast majority (most of those on the Terrace) have old expansion bolts that shouldn't be trusted.

There are several other routes not listed in Climb China that are off the main deck. However, HK tour groups like to use this area for rappelling and zip-lining, and so isn't an ideal choice on sunny weekends.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Dragonslayer (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: There is a slightly harder start just above the monobridge. This climbs a thin juggy flake that joins with the route about 25 feet up. It is definitely a more enjoyable start. The book describes this as 10c, but it is 10a at most, though protection is a little tricky down low.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Come check out the climbing at the Dragon Cave!


Location: International : Asia : Malaysia : Batu Caves
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 23, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A little beta from a brief trip here...

We stayed at the Batu Caves Budget Hotel. It was 75MYR/night for a four-person room that had air conditioning and warm showers, or 65 for a two-person. There is a really good restaurant next door serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner, as well as a 7-11 and water refill station within a two-minute walk. It's a 30-40 minute walk to any of the walls. Vertical Adventures, as well as other restaurants, grocery stores, and the Avatar Hotel (perhaps a better opti... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Malaysia : Tioman Island
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Some beta after a brief stay here...

Getting to Mukut on Tioman is relatively straightforward, although it involves a lot of transfers. It would be advisable to make reservations ahead of time to make sure things go smoothly. Once you arrive at the airport, get to TBS station. From here, take a Transnacional bus to Mersing. The earliest is 9am, which puts you in Mersing around 3pm. The ferry, run by Blue Waters Express, usually runs once a day between 3-5pm, so you might have to hustle to the j... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Anybody who has been to Tonsai - or any crag in a part of the world that is flooded by foreign money - understands the "context."


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (6) First Cave : Agar Jelly (5.10a/b R)
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The rock on the first 30 feet of the first pitch is a death trap. The bolting on the entire route was obviously done on rappel by someone with no eye for a line or for safety in general. The bolts are likely dangerous beyond any semblance of reliability. It cannot be safely protected with trad gear.

That said, the route does take you into a unique position above the First Cave. However, it should never be rebolted, and I don't recommend anybody climb it... unless you like that kind of adventure... more >>


Page 1 of 7.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!