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Member Since: Jul 7, 2009
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 5,084
Total Points: 70
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Muff been climbing?










Contributions


All 93 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvments | Comments 15 | Posts 38 | Stars 25 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Bighorn Mating Grotto Circumnavigation Route (Free Muff-Willy)

Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c R (1)

Trad, Grade III

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Bighorn Mating Grotto

Jan 22, 2014

Hijacked

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 (2)

Sport

CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : Kamikaze Cave

Jan 5, 2010

Survival of the Fittest

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (10)

Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Right of the Roof

Sep 21, 2009

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
This is the roof pitch. This is what the anchor looked like a few years ago. I hope its been fixed!

This is the roof pitch. This is what the anchor looked like a few years ago. I hope its been fixed!

NV : Red Rock : ... : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)

Jul 3, 2012

Witch Hunt 5.10

Witch Hunt 5.10

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Witch Hunt (5.10b)

Dec 7, 2011

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Muff : stuff

Dec 15, 2010

Dan W on Hijacked

Dan W on Hijacked

CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : Hijacked (5.12b PG13)

Jan 5, 2010

Urban Struggle Crux.

Urban Struggle Crux.

CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : Urban Struggle (5.12a/b)

Jul 7, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Desert Gold (5.13a PG13)
By: Muff When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: The 5.8 pitch is actually not trivial; the entire formation is less than solid. The entire 5.8 pitch is harmonic and most holds: flakes, blocks, etc make a lot of noise. It is apparent that rock comes off the first pitch regularly as there is a lot of scarring and compacted dirt where holds used to be. I highly recommend to keep all of your gear away from the fall zone of this pitch. We stashed all of our packs off far climbers right which proved to be very wise. Back up the summit anc... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12) : Photo
By: Muff When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: Thank you for putting this together Luke! Very clear and concise rap beta for the 70meter. I have not rapped on a 60meter so can't comment but thank you so much!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11)
By: Muff When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Fun route. Super long approach that is easy to make longer than necessary if you delineate from the path. It's a pretty linear approach and impossible not to spot the wall but it is very possible to find yourself zig zagging from one side of the wash to the other. From what I have gathered from many other parties the best way to approach is to go the long way up the 3rd class approach. You definitely do not want to get caught doing the 4th class approach in the dark.

What surprised me about th... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : South Astro Dome : ... : Such a Savage (5.11a R)
By: Muff When: Mar 26, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the clarification Randy!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Gunslinger (5.12a/b)
By: Muff When: Mar 26, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone know if the P3 anchor was replaced on this? I am looking to attempt this in the near future. If the anchor has not been replaced would it be permissible that we replaced it?

Thanks for putting it up Bob!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : South Astro Dome : ... : Such a Savage (5.11a R)
By: Muff When: Mar 26, 2012

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Comments: I am slightly confused as to this direct start. I have not yet done this route but I am just looking for clarification as to the direct start that "now exists". Was there some debris or talus that was cleaned that opened up a new line to the first bolt or is just that someone had yet to climb said line that now exists? Looking to jump on this thing pretty soon and looking forward to it!


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Kamikaze Cave : Hijacked (5.12b PG13)
By: Muff When: Feb 21, 2012

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Comments: This route is more in the low 5.13 range by my estimates. It's much harder than its 5.12d neighbor. Consensus?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : South of Heaven (5.12d)
By: Muff When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: Easily approached by taking the wash directly underneath the Bulkhead and then heading directly to the Bulkhead. Break left of the Bulkhead and head straight up the hillside towards the dark brown chossy formations at the summit of the hill. Head over the "saddle" onto a flat area and you should see the prominent Slatanic formation at the top of the gulley. Amazing formation with superb rock. 45+ mins if approached correctly.

If attempting to set up a TR by approaching the top of the formation... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - E... : Apartheid (5.12a)
By: Muff When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: Not really a route I would seek out unless in the area. Perhaps I am biased at 5'7. Short, burly, and somewhat reachy. I had a hilariously pathetic attempt at the finishing mantle move. 2-3 stars out 5.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Houser Buttress Area : ... : California Girls (aka Muffi... (5.11b)
By: Muff When: Jun 28, 2011

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Comments: Very loose exfoliating rock. Managed to onsight this route but also managed to break some holds off while doing it. I am not really sure if it meets up to the 11b grade but definitely a 10+/11-. My partner managed to pull off a hand sized thin flake on this thing so it might be wise to wear a helmet as the belayer. Not that great of a route in my opinion but worth it if you're already there.

Maybe in time as this thing sees more traffic it will clean up and lose some of those loose holds.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Hidden Cliff : Bikini Whale (5.12b)
By: Muff When: Jun 2, 2011

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Comments: Short or not you might want to stick clip the first bolt. Its either a deadpoint for tall people or a all points off dyno for vertically challenged people such as myself. Awesome route with crazy moves. From what I understand holds have broken off and made this route harder than the original rating of 12a. I would recommend 12b. Going from the deck to bolt two comprises the crux and boy howdy what an interesting set of powerful movements that thing is!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - West Face : The Chameleon (5.12b PG13)
By: Muff When: Jun 2, 2011

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Comments: Albeit I attempted this on TR I would have to agree with Brad's statement. I only took one run on this route but was able to make the entire route clean until the "10+ flaring crack" this section is pump-tastic and requires a lot of brute strength. The lower section of this route which constitutes the technical crux is comprised of a stellar mix of power and techy balancy moves. The upper section with the 10+ crack is what I would consider the physical enduro crux. Definitely pre run this one on... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Fred (5.11a)
By: Muff When: May 10, 2011

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Comments: The beginning of this route requires a super tiny cam. Silver TCU or Black Diamond 00 or 000. Otherwise don't mess up! Climbed this thing in the rain and heavy fog last weekend. What an experience!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Indian Cove Bouldering : Indian Cove CG : ... : Skimbles (V6)
By: Muff When: Dec 15, 2010

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Comments: Cool problem if you want to see what a hard boulder feels like while being close to the ground. Kinda silly, kinda fun. I wouldn't drive out of my way to get to this thing but if you're in Indian Cove and have some time to kill give it a shot since its literally right next to the road.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Lost Horse Bouldering : Hemingway Boulders : ... : Lost Generation (V0-)
By: Muff When: Nov 27, 2010

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Comments: I sometimes guide trips to Joshua Tree and this is a great boulder for beginners. It is easy enough to not see injuries and hard enough to challenge a beginner climber. A nice alternative to Joshua Tree's typical technical slab boulders. Great for beginners or just to have fun on.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Pop Quiz! How good are your trad skills?General ClimbingMuffJul 11, 2014
re: Why Use Quickdraws for Trad?Climbing Gear DiscussionMuffMay 5, 2014
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