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Me on Supercrack


Member Since: Dec 20, 2011
Last Visit: Dec 26, 2013
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Point Rank: # 2,005
Total Points: 280
Last Year: 11
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 241 | Routes 6 | Areas 1 | Photos 34 | Page Improvments | Comments 35 | Posts 126 | Stars 39 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Phipps Park : Big Eagle Feather (5.11b)
By: MTKirk When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: Agreed, this has harder moves than any 11 I've been on at the Creek. On the other hand it's pretty darn short. Joel has this as 11b in his guidebook & that's where I got the rating. I'd say ratings in Billings are more in line with those at Devils Tower & a little harder than those at the Creek.


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Phipps Park : Purple Pinky Eater (5.11a)
By: MTKirk When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: Whoops! forgot to post co-ordinates on this one! Anyway it's been updated. From Big Eagle Feather it's about 2000 ft Southwest as the crow flies. Type the co-ordinates in google maps & you should be able to find it. If all else fails, give me a text & I'll walk you over there 406 794-4362.


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Gregory : Photo
By: MTKirk When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: Great topos Brian, but isn't #25 Peanut Brittle? A typo on the topo?


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Rockwood Circle : Gazelle (5.10c)
By: MTKirk When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: The top of this climb is outstanding sustained 10 crack climbing, it's so good you will have forgotten all about the muddy face climbing by the time you get to the top.

Located @ 45.80317,-108.585812. The top anchors are a little scary to get to, consider a belay.


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Rockwood Circle : The Omen (5.10d)
By: MTKirk When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: The Omen now has top anchors, but; sadly the climb has greatly deteriorated over the last couple of years. I would avoid it at all costs. Unless of course you've ever wondered what it would be like to climb a vertical sand dune with Poison Ivy at the top and bottom.


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Phipps Park : Golden Acres (5.10a) : Photo
By: MTKirk When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: Golden Acres it is!


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Phipps Park : Golden Acres (5.10a) : Photo
By: MTKirk When: May 2, 2013

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Comments: Are you sure Brian? On RC.com you had Golden Acres as a 10d handcrack. This is a bit easier than that and is ringlocks even for little handed people.


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Phipps Park : Carona Corner (5.11a) : Photo
By: MTKirk When: May 2, 2013

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Comments: Yep!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : H-Man (5.10)
By: MTKirk When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: I did the first pitch. The climbing is pretty good, but the rock on the left side of the crack is a thin detached flake. I put gear in to keep my belayer from getting nervous, but I had no illusions about it's quality. By the time the crack widens and gets harder you will have good gear, just be prepared for 30' or so of 5.9 with bad gear to start. Pull your rope far to climbers right or the crack will eat it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : The Crowning (5.10-)
By: MTKirk When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: I only did the first pitch, but it was awesome! Shady, cool and a nice change of pace from crack jamming. You have to place smaller gear in the right crack to avoid using large pieces (bigger than #5) in the left crack. The pieces in the right crack have to be set blind so I set quite a few, I used some DMM alloy offsets 8-10 range, and C4's in the .3 to .5 range. I used extended draws on every piece and the rope ran perfect.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Whale's Back (5.11-)
By: MTKirk When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: My 70m didn't reach, not even close. I think the best strategy is to bring up the second from the anchors. You can then lower(or rap one strand) the second down to the ground. To clean the anchor you can rap with a 70m to a ledge to climbers left, pull the rope from this ledge, then do a 5.4? down climb 20'+/- climbers left of route.

I had six #2 camalots and wished I had eight, I had to set one of them backwards in the crack at the top of the bulge to keep rope drag/piece pushing to a m... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : On the Up and Up (5.10)
By: MTKirk When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: Good two bolt anchor at 70 feet as of 3/30/2013. Used a couple of #2 then 6? #3's (could use something in between for 1 or 2 of the #3's). Weird to walk up to a splitter of this quality on Easter weekend and no one else is in sight. The move out of the pod is awesome!


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Gregory : Betty Rubble (5.9)
By: MTKirk When: Jan 27, 2013

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Comments: Is this is the right hand version of Barney Rubble? I really enjoy this route, it's a decent lead with a variety of moves. Some of the gear in the middle is a little suspect, but the tough parts protect well. I usually take (but have a few left over) a double rack of Camalots from .5 to 3 (you could also place a 4 instead of one of the 3's if you wanted) and a larger DMM offset nut or red tri-cam. The top anchor @ 45.803334,-108.588433 consists of a Eyebolt and one chain that are very far apart,... more >>


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Gregory : Roof Right (5.9- PG13)
By: MTKirk When: Jan 27, 2013

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Comments: PG- HEADS UP!! A pretty good climb, but NOT A BEGINNER'S LEAD. The crack start protects well and is very positive. You reach the end of the crack and make a committing 5.8+ move to reach a lone bolt, there is no other protection until you reach the chains. The climbing above the bolt is all 5.8+ and if you fall just below the chains you will hit a pedestal. I would not recommend this as on onsight attempt unless you are a very solid 5.9/5.10 trad leader. When I lead this it feels like ... more >>


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Rockwood Circle
By: MTKirk When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: There is no legal access to the bottom of these routes. To get to the top park here 45.804111,-108.580145 (on Masterson circle) walk west 100 yards along faint utility access road (parallels highway) to here 45.804291,-108.582246. Turn left (south) and scramble down a 4' cliff to arrive at main trail. Head west 300 yards+/- on trail to here 45.803203,-108.585195 (just west of a house with a rounded facade). Find a weakness and climb (4th class) down a 12' cliff to the south, this will deposit ... more >>


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Gregory : Excuse Abuse (5.11b)
By: MTKirk When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: @ 45.803098,-108.587881 Highly recommend! Don't let the grade scare you, if you can climb 10 crack you'll have a blast on top rope, if you've got big fingers you'll probably have to bypass the thin part. A finger size cam directional is handy, if you pop off under the overhang it can be a chore to get back on.


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Gregory : Easy Street (5.9+)
By: MTKirk When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: @45.804191,-108.591515 Highly recommend, the rock quality is much better than it looks like it's going to be, as is the gear. Great fingercrack to a bouldery crux & a slopey finish. I agree with the sand bag, gives me more trouble than some of the 10's up here.


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Gregory : Black Crack (5.10d)
By: MTKirk When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: @45.803378,-108.588755 Highly recommend, especially if you like burly cracks. If you don't have any huge gear to protect the top, you can do what I did & hang a piece of webbing down from the anchors to protect the last couple of moves, for sort of a contrived lead. It's a tempting thought to put a bolt or two up there, if anyone cares I vote no.


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Gregory : Elephant's Slipper (5.10a)
By: MTKirk When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: @ 45.803643,-108.589483 Highly recommend! I'll confess to being a pretty timid leader, I made sure I had this one wired before I led it. I had doubts about the gear before the transition to the left crack (crux for me). Also the second roof (easier than it looks) protects with a tiny cam. Don't even think about lowering off, both the rock and your rope will be damaged.


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Gregory : Walkup (5.5)
By: MTKirk When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: @ 45.803643,-108.589483 It's easy & a lot of people solo it, but place some gear on your first time up it. That way you won't die if you happen to slip on one of the often sandy foot holds, plus you'll gain experience with placing gear in dried mud ;) Actually the rock is pretty good on this one.


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks
By: MTKirk When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: Park here for Gregory 45.802335,-108.586486 If you don't have a GPS print up a google map to that location. Hike up an obvious trail, staying on the right fork for the first few feet, away from the Heavy Poison Ivy growth at the base of the boulder. hike up and left (west) to get to the "walkup" area (easiest lead up) at 45.803643,-108.589483 the climbs are both left (west) & right(east) of here. You can also buy a guidebook (Super Sand Land, Joel Anderson) at Steep World.

This video is well ... more >>


Location: MT : East Rosebud Lake : The Ramp (5.7)
By: MTKirk When: Oct 3, 2012

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Comments: I thought the hand crack, over a bulge, start to this was at least 5.8 maybe even 5.9, but it's only one or two moves & the protection is excellent (#1 camalot I think). The "5.9" variation of the last pitch looks hard, it's steep and exposed but I think it climbs easier than the start. DMM Alloy & brass offsets were very useful in the flared cracks that make up the bulk of the route. I took triple camalots from .5 to 1, two #2's, two #3's, & mastercam sizes 0, 1, & 2. Brought ... more >>


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Mill Creek : Ladyfingers Buttress : Ladyfingers (5.9)
By: MTKirk When: Oct 3, 2012

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Comments: Nice! #1 Metolius mastercams are very handy for the crux, if you don't want to fiddle with nuts.


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Gregory : Sapsucker (5.9)
By: MTKirk When: May 30, 2012

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Comments: @ 45.803179,-108.588161 A very good trad lead. I think I used a double set of 3 to .5 camalots (bring 3 total .5 camalots). You can protect the off-width lower section with well placed smaller cams. Beware of a patch of Poison Ivy that tends to grow behind the flake at the bottom right of the route.


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Rockwood Circle : Trim the Bush (5.10a/b)
By: MTKirk When: May 24, 2012

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Comments: Worth climbing. The bolts are heavily corroded but look to be glued in and fairly beefy, none of them are bent or have spinning hangers. You can also back up most of the bolts with nuts, in particular a #5 or 6 BD stopper fits perfectly in a slot just a couple of inches to the right of the crux bolt. The crux is tricky 5.10+ but only one move, you start it from a rest position, & finish on a massive jug.


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