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I couldn't resist uploading this cool silhouette my friend Aran took of me on Panische Zeiten.


Member Since: Jul 7, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Shawn Heath


Point Rank: # 8
Total Points: 16,074
Last Year: 5,530
Last 30 Days: 571
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All (3150) | Routes (811) | Areas (270) | Photos (762) | Comments (99) | Posts (49) | Stars (999) | Ratings (160)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura
By: Shawn Heath When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Black Diamond athlete Sarah Seeger.



Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Working for Peanuts (5.9+)
By: Shawn Heath When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: I will agree that this thing was MUCH harder than I was expecting and scared the crap out of me, but I don't climb because it's a breeze... That's precisely why I liked this route.


Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : Black and Tan
By: Shawn Heath When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: This page would be a lot better if somebody added some more beta pictures to define where the bolt lines run. The guidebook is pretty out-of-date and incorrect, especially with the left side of the crag.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Tortuga (5.12a)
By: Shawn Heath When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: I also deviated from what's in the video. I placed a left hand in the small pocket where he has a right, then slotted the fingers of my right hand into the crack immediately above the pocket, then made the lunge to the jug at the 2nd bolt. Lief's idea is nice but unfortunately (or maybe fortunately, who knows) I didn't notice the block when I managed to onsight this (my first .12a onsight!) :)


Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : Black and Tan : Photo
By: Shawn Heath When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: Yes. I did this route and barely onsighted it, which is exactly the same result as for Tortuga, and it was harder than Shades of Grey so it must be between 5.11c and 5.12a. What is the name of this route?


Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : Black and Tan : Crime and Punishment (5.10a)
By: Shawn Heath When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: I don't agree with boltclippinfool on how this route runs. I do, however, agree with most of the rest of what he says. Here's my route description.

Start on Glutton for Punishment for the first two bolts. Runout the rest of the even easier slab (5.3) to the bolt line on the left. Follow this straight up through a bulge and great pockets to a crimpy and balancey crux at the anchor where the weight of the rope makes the moves feel more difficult than they are. 5.9 tops and something like 8 bolts ... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : Black and Tan : Jumanji (5.12a)
By: Shawn Heath When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: Lots of great movement and tons of tiny footholds through the crux on this one. Great route, but I suck too much to have ticked it on my visit.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Strip
By: Shawn Heath When: Feb 3, 2014

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Comments: Since I had no idea what the hell "The Strip" was and you may not either, here's a Wikipedia article about it: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arizona_Strip


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Photo
By: Shawn Heath When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: I thought we judged pictures here based on composition...


Location: UT : Saint George : Pine Valley
By: Shawn Heath When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: There's a conflict I noticed in the description since I'm looking at this area for a potential winter visit. It says that this place offers comfortable winter climbing, but that the temperature is 15-20 colder than in St. George. According to Wikipedia, the average high in February (when I would be there) is 58.8 in St. George, meaning it could be potentially 39° in Pine Valley, which I don't consider comfortable. So which is it? Good winter destination or not?


Location: International : Europe : France : Buoux
By: Shawn Heath When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: Some useful info:
The name is pronounced something like "Bukes".
You can't stay (overnight) in Buoux, but you can camp in one of the two nearby towns, Apt or Bonnieux. In Apt you have the following three campgrounds to choose from:
- This campground is in the heart of Apt, making it pretty hard to sleep in the morning as there are large trucks as well as normal cars which drive by close to it. However, it's the cheapest and the toilets have toilet paper. There's also a community 'fridge, which ... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Luxembourg : Berdorf
By: Shawn Heath When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: The link didn't work for me. It may have moved. Here's the link I found: www.environnement.public.lu/guichet_virtuel/Escalade_Kletter>>>


Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Grüne Hölle : ... : Die Fette Elke (5.10b)
By: Shawn Heath When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: I went to the right and was glad that I did because the holds over there are great!


Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Grüne Hölle : ... : Dr. J (5.10a)
By: Shawn Heath When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: Highly featured indeed, but the pockets are disappointing to say the least. Every one you grab you go to with high hopes only to discover that they're desperately shallow! This route is also difficult for 6+, so 5.10b may be more applicable.


Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Soranger Wand : Massaker (5.12d)
By: Shawn Heath When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: Here are a couple more videos of the route:




Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Kühlochfelsen : Mause Ohne Schwanz (5.11b)
By: Shawn Heath When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Due to a storm and strong winds this past weekend (3rd and 4th of August, 2013), some of the trees in this area were blown down and as a result uprooted. This includes the trees on top of this tower (Amberger Turm) which have resultantly pried the rock loose and destroyed the two routes "Maus ohne Schwanz" and "Polyphoner Tinnitus".


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Photo
By: Shawn Heath When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: This guy looks really similar to the Running Crab Spider: www.insectidentification.org/insect-description.asp?identifi>>>
I've also seen lots of Banded Garden Spiders www.insectidentification.org/insect-description.asp?identifi>>> which are some seriously monstrous things. I stay off those routes!


Location: germsauce : photos : Photo
By: Shawn Heath When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, but for how long?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5) : Photo
By: Shawn Heath When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: I think he was too, but Shirley looks pretty terrified for this being a 5.5. I wish there were more "5.5"s like this in the Alps! It would make convincing my wife to do get on some of those routes a little easier.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Eas... : Leave it to Beaver (aka The... (5.12a)
By: Shawn Heath When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: Great video! Better in some ways than a lot of the new stuff coming out. ;)


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : ... : Photo
By: Shawn Heath When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: The perspective of this picture is bizarre! The climb looks like a 5.8 slab and the climber looks like he's headed off into the depths of the picture.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Arco and Surrounding Area : Nago wall : ... : Photo
By: Shawn Heath When: Mar 22, 2013

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Comments: I find it quite practical, actually. And it's no worse than chalking the hell out of a crag.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Conundrum Crag
By: Shawn Heath When: Mar 1, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Paul. However, his description says four routes, and there are at least 6 (as you said, there are 2 new routes not in the guidebook). I would've loved to have tried the others, but I was visiting and this was my last day and I didn't want to try something I would end up getting stuck on. This is like what I think would be helpful: www.mountainproject.com/v/107197856


Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Obertrubachtal : ... : Eraserhead (5.12)
By: Shawn Heath When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: This is the only thing I can find for a reference for the route name:



Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Photo
By: Shawn Heath When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: I finally got it: this is Dampfhammer!


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