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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet : Perchance to Dream (5.8) : Photo
By: Mostafa When: May 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is sea of troubles. Perchance to Dream is directly to the left they sort of share the start.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8) : Photo
By: Mostafa When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Okay cool just wanted to clarify route was lots of fun. I hate to have done a different variation.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8) : Photo
By: Mostafa When: Apr 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I could be wrong but looking at the guidebook and at the picture of larry (page 86) on the sixth pitch his belayer is off to climbers right more. And from the topo in guidebook if you see the picture below the red circle is what the picture here is of. We ended up climbing to the red circle, belaying at green and then traversing back to the yellow circle to climb p6.
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Submitted By: Mostafa on Apr 16, 2013
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8) : Photo
By: Mostafa When: Apr 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this is not the correct pitch. If you belay from the bolts at top of pitch three you need to actually move right to start pitch four. If you go to the crack this picture shows you head into comeback corner, but eventually you can go right on the varnish face to get back onto route at p6. We followed this beta doing the variation.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Outhouse Wall : Karate Crack (5.9+)
By: Mostafa When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd recommend bringing what the Handren book says which is single to 3 and doubles in 1-3. I didn't place what gear I had very well and so I was forced to run it out a little at the top. The route is straight across from the sign that will appear on your left side. Fun route!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Photo
By: Mostafa When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I could be wrong but looks like The Paiute Wall www.mountainproject.com/v/the-paiute-wall/106380832
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Sumo Greatness Slab : Sumo Greatness (5.9+ R)
By: Mostafa When: Mar 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some real slab climbing once you hit first bolt all the way to top. Two bolts little runout just keep moving. I clipped the anchor and went all the way up to a tree for my anchor and walked off. I would also add that if you blow the moves to first bolt you will go for a big fall and any fall after that may not be big but might cause injury.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Wholesome Fullback (5.10a)
By: Mostafa When: Mar 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you plan on doing this in one pitch one double length and many shoulder length slings are nice to keep rope drag down. A single rack (purple mastercam to bd #3) with an extra #2 should get you up and in addition for the belay I used #4, 3 & 1.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Ragged Edges (5.8) : Photo
By: Mostafa When: Mar 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: They TRd ragged you can tell from next photo. The gear is on Plan F tho.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : The Heavy Hitter (5.10b/c)
By: Mostafa When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with everything J. Wilder said. This climb is more sustained than the other 10d routes in corridor and most other 10s I've done in RR. Fun route tho with cool moves in the first half.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Crude Boys (5.10d)
By: Mostafa When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: As said out left at second bolt is 5.9ish but straight up is 5.10dish might be harder for shorter people.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Janes Wall : Half Baked (5.9+)
By: Mostafa When: Feb 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some loose rock on this one still I broke a little foot hold. Some of the rock at start before the first bolt was hard to trust.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet : Photo
By: Mostafa When: Jan 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: mountainproject.com/v/the-j-wall/107959330
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Flight Path Area : Commuted Sentence (5.9+)
By: Mostafa When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I placed a 5 before entering the chimney section. Then a 2 at the roof of the chimney and .4 on the right side edge. Trying to off width up as far as I could go and then trying to start the layback did not work well.
Take some webbing and replace rappel slings. Currently they are fine but will need replacing soon.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a)
By: Mostafa When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I do not have experience bolting, but more than willing to help do whatever else to get this climb rebolted. If anyone wants to go up to rebolt check my MP page for my days off and we can plan in advance.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Varnishing Point (5.8+) : Photo
By: Mostafa When: Jan 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I peaked around the corner and it seemed harder to protect and not as good so I ended up climbing the original route. And John is right about the rope stretch I didn't think about that at the time.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Varnishing Point (5.8+)
By: Mostafa When: Jan 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can link pitches 1&2 together with a 60m rope (note that rope stretch may cause ledging out if you blow the crux). I did not find rope drag to be an issue (I extend my pieces) or even gear with single rack to 4. Rap straight down off the anchors (that are found below the bolt at pinnacle and to the right) traverse left to the ledge of pitch 1 to find another chain anchor. 2 raps. During the crux of the route I felt like it was hard for 5.8 found out after it is an Herbst route.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Immoral (5.10d)
By: Mostafa When: Dec 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this route has a total of 8 bolts now no need to plug gear in the bad rock at start. The route was fun and unique. If your looking for some sun and happen to be at moderate mecca jump on it.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Stupid Cat (5.10d)
By: Mostafa When: Dec 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree this climb is one of the best I have done. Sweet thin moves down low to steep jugs. I felt the route was sustained and couldn't really take advantage of any of the rests. Fun route to do in addition to Cocopuss and the other bolted ones routes around the corner.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Attack Dogs (5.10c)
By: Mostafa When: Dec 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the route in two ways: straight up the bolted line and swung around the left side to the face. I would say both options are equally as hard.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Black Widow Hollow (5.9) : Photo
By: Mostafa When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A lot people say it takes a full 70m but I'm pretty sure when we pitched it out one was at about 35m the other much less. Anyone ever do it one pitch?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Sweet Thin (5.9)
By: Mostafa When: Nov 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Connect Pitch 3 & 4 like Andy said. On pitch 3 I walked a #4 up with me until the crack was to wide then walked the #5 up until I reached the bolts place a 120cm sling traverse to Mayday Malefactor place another 120cm sling and traverse to the Sweet Thin anchors.
A second 4 or 3.5 would have been nice to have on pitch 6.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Rose Hips (5.7)
By: Mostafa When: Nov 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 I found once you start climbing the face the gear is tricky (as John mentions) and can be a little run out.
The next two pitches we did a slight variation:
Pitch 2 We set the belay higher about 40-50ft below the roof. Climb up and then through a tunnel. The tunnel is pretty neat. Climb up the left crack until it ends build a belay. We did not set our belay above the roof.
Pitch 3 Traverse right for about 100ft set up belay as you would on the normal route. I placed a piece at the... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Arch Enemy (5.9)
By: Mostafa When: Nov 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route that gets overlooked. If your going to do it don't miss the third pitch it is quite fun and protects really well. I was able to protect the second pitch after the second bolt with a BD C4 #4 then grunted and squeezed my way through it. Connect this with Beulah's Book for a great outing.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Shit Howdy : Risk Brothers Roof (5.11a) : Photo
By: Mostafa When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Rob!
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