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Member Since: May 20, 2007
Last Visit: Oct 2, 2013
Contact moss1956


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Total Points: 585
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has moss1956 been climbing?










Contributions


All 122 | Routes 45 | Areas 5 | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts | Stars 44 | Ratings 4

Contributed Comments

 

Location: IA : Indian Bluffs : Boulevard Wall : No Response (5.11c)
By: moss1956 When: Aug 29, 2010

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Comments: A not so good handhold broke off at the crux when I was climbing No Response yesterday, leaving a bucket instead. Maybe the climb needs to be downgraded to 5.11a.


Location: IA : Palisades Kepler State Park : City of Copper
By: moss1956 When: Aug 24, 2010

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Comments: This used to be called Rich Man Wall. When the river is lower you can access it from the other side of the river. Park at the Observatory, and then follow trails that head downstream and towards the river.

There is also a great crack near there, called Melissa because someone carved that name in the rock next to the crack.

There are a few other good places to climb on the other side of the river.


Location: IA : Indian Bluffs : Photo
By: moss1956 When: Jul 6, 2009

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Comments: Looks like Boulevard Wall


Location: IA : Indian Bluffs : Photo
By: moss1956 When: Jul 6, 2009

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Comments: The lower part of the climb is called "Crap Attack". The upper part
is unnamed. Its about 10c, but the bolting is airy, so you shouldn't
be doing it unless you are comfortable at a higher grade than that.


Location: IA : Indian Bluffs
By: moss1956 When: Feb 27, 2009

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Comments: Jim H,
I am not sure what you mean, unless you mean to say that Monticello
is not a city.
Moss


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Wild Iowa Wall : Wild Iowa (5.11b)
By: moss1956 When: Oct 17, 2008

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Comments: Five.easy to the bulge, at which point you make a traverse on crimpers to a clipping stance that is, at the very least challenging.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Shiprock : Silk Road (aka Somn Somn) (5.10b)
By: moss1956 When: Oct 8, 2008

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Comments: Actually it has 5 bolts in 60 feet. After about 20 feet its just low angle choss.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Comic Gallery : Flash (5.11b)
By: moss1956 When: Oct 7, 2008

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Comments: No particular move on this climb is hard, its just stacking them one after another that makes it a challenge. This is a good one to do bolt to bolt as your first 11.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Photo
By: moss1956 When: May 21, 2008

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Comments: On the other hand, where else can you go get pumped out of your brains from March through October every year, and its not crowded and the people are nice, and its only a short drive.

This year is drippier than most.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Photo
By: moss1956 When: May 18, 2008

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Comments: Hey! I think thats my rope! :)


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Comic Gallery : Tazmanian Devil (5.10d)
By: moss1956 When: Mar 26, 2008

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Comments: This climb is fun, but its wet for most of the spring.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Comic Gallery : Skeletor (5.10a)
By: moss1956 When: Mar 26, 2008

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Comments: This climb is not overhung. Its close to vertical. Other than
a scary clip, its pretty undistinguished climbing.

The clip is scary because your feet are at the third bolt which is a spinner, and if you did blow the clip, you could deck on a ledge. However, you aren't going to blow the clip. :)

The photo
was taken standing at the base of Taz, so I don't know what
the description, "next route the left of Taz" means.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Comic Gallery : Exquze me, do you have any ... (5.10a)
By: moss1956 When: Mar 26, 2008

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Comments: This is the easiest 10 at PR. Pulling the bulge can be easy or hard,
depending on whether you find that juicy positive hidden ledge
over to the right. If you blow the clip above the bulge, you will end up with your feet below the belay ledge.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Comic Gallery : The Buddha (aka Turn Me Loo... (5.10b)
By: moss1956 When: Mar 26, 2008

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Comments: This is a Matt Wendling climb. His wife was the first ascender,
and they named it "Turn Me Loose". I learned the name "The Buddha"
from a kid named Thad who used to climb at PR a lot.

The finishing hold is covered with moss, so you don't want to
be climbing this when the rock is wet at all.

I think its a really fun climb, that is more overhanging than you would
think.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Windy Point : The Dispossessed (5.10a)
By: moss1956 When: Mar 26, 2008

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Comments: This climb was named "Trespass" by its first ascender Katie Ives. The
named listed here is artificial and was placed on rc.com
during a bout of paranoia about access.

In my humble opinion, if you blew the clip at the third bolt bad enough it could be a ground fall. Luckily that part of the climb is slabby and less than vertical. The crux is between the first and second bolt.
After that, the climb is easy.

Also, the one time I climbed it I pulled off a piece of choss about the size of a soft... more >>