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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Photo
By: morkel When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: AKA Laughing Man.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Horseshead : Funky Gold Patina (5.10d)
By: morkel When: Oct 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Done. Exit up the crack to the left of the summit block. Not nearly as cool but indeed safer.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: morkel When: Sep 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5391058.pdf
Updated closures for September.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Jewel of the Nile Wall : Pearly Burly Brooke (5.9)
By: morkel When: Oct 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am. Who is this?
The corner is great, 5.9. I lead it again last weekend, cleaned it up again too. It does not take long for the shrubs to regrow.
I really doubt I made the first accent of this nice crack in 2005. Even then, I assumed it had been done. I've talked with a couple of people but don't have any info on earlier ascents. I don't recommend the second pitch of this route, not really a pitch at all; really dirty scrambling. Traversing off to the east at the fist belay is pr... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Jewel of the Nile Wall : Pearly Burly Brooke (5.9)
By: morkel When: Oct 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route in 2005, and again today. Today, I did not see any "lowering slings". I did see some worn looking slings in a crevice near the top of the formation. This was at about 200 feet. Today we left lengths of rope around two trees to allow a single 60 m rope descent. In 2005, we left the purple webbing above the right dihedral for descent. The purple webbing was not in place today. After looking more closely at the formation today, it looks possible to down scramble to the north a... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Better than Watching TV (pr... (5.11d)
By: morkel When: Sep 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I plan on changing out the first two cold shut hangers. Very poor and unwelded. I want to believe this route was retrobolted, the fat bolt by the fat crack seems uncharacteristic for the first ascentionists, VW and partner. But then so do the unwelded cold shuts. The second pitch is really pretty nice, easier than other 11+'s, and the first pitch makes for a good warm up.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Crystal Method (5.11+ PG13)
By: morkel When: Sep 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I only top roped this self belay, so I can't make real definitive statements. However, I can almost guarantee a fall immediately after either of the cruxes would be nasty, especially the lower crux right off the ledge. I have led Fantastic Voyage, and feel like this route will be a step up. Stout. I wonder how many leads this has had? The climbing is great.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Lower Exum Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: morkel When: Aug 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I could not find the start to the red approach. After getting to the ledge below the chimney and looking back, it looked to me like the red approach was not so easy. The yellow is very nice, straight forward, has a caren at the base and goes at about 5.6.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: morkel When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is great, and a great challenge too. There was a fixed wire as of 10-16-09 (somewhat helpful), but with a perfect # 3 Cam. placement just below it. A # 5 Cam. does indeed fit nicely in the “A”. Be ready with something like a .75 Cam. after this crux. As a warm up, I felt this pitch was less of a boulder problem than the Ear pitch.
The last two bolts of the Ear seem a bit loose, but nowhere near removable by hand.
We rappelled the route, great if no one else is... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Parallels (5.11b)
By: morkel When: Aug 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments:
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Lunch Bucket Crack (5.8)
By: morkel When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Something between the second and third bolt would be nice, as well as a piece (# 2 Cam.?) after the last bolt. Not too bad a route, follows a bit of a natural line.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Crystal Method (5.11+ PG13)
By: morkel When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm down. I'll bring some rack next time and give it a whirl.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Balaam (5.11)
By: morkel When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is fun, but I think it is closer to 11.d than 11.b, maybe some holds have broken, but at least not in the last year.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Sun Deck : Whiskey Crack (5.10c/d)
By: morkel When: Jun 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey thanks, the partner is very reliable. This route is one of those leads that take a little extra time, it seemed anyway. Top notch.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Steep Triangular Face : Friday the 14th (5.11b/c)
By: morkel When: May 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I’ve tried this climb twice; I don’t see how it can be rated 5.11. Maybe I missed something, but I have climbed many routes similar to this one that rate harder.
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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Viagra Crack (A0)
By: morkel When: May 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds pretty nice, mostly trad, I live 70 miles away. You got um photo?
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Photo
By: morkel When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The DOW puts these signs anywhere and everywhere a bear might be. Maybe your backyard if they could.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Narrowslab : Right Edge (5.6)
By: morkel When: Apr 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, locals, about 8 years ago.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Better than Watching TV (pr... (5.11d)
By: morkel When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Okay, the second pitch is nice. As good as any of the other second pitches here that I've climbed-they have so far had bolts farther spaced than the first pitches. Makes for fun. Fairly certain this is the route I was told about, Better Than TV, 5.11c**
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Wall With a View : Route with a View (5.10b/c)
By: morkel When: Sep 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A friend of mine climbed this years ago without bolts.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Better than Watching TV (pr... (5.11d)
By: morkel When: Sep 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have yet to climb this route. I believe this is a route a friend of mine was always trying to get me to climb. There was only one route on the face when he put it up. So, I don't think Craig put this up. And, it may have also be called Better Than TV. Or was it Better Than VD? Depends whether you like it or not I guess.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Coyne Crack (5.12a)
By: morkel When: Mar 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe Wild Country came up with the quarter-sized 1.25 and 1.75 Friends just for the start of this crack. I'm just speculating, but they do work so well for the first two pieces.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c)
By: morkel When: Mar 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Number three Friends NOW fit this crack perfectly, it has also become easier with 'man hands'.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 1 : The Fornicator (5.11c)
By: morkel When: Dec 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A runner is nice on the third to last bolt.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Jam Left (5.9+)
By: morkel When: Nov 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10a, one star for me.
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