Comments: I must admit and apologize for initiating this confusion Ė calling The Nod, The Fable. But at my defense, I did email a suggestion to make corrections some years ago. Then, even more routes got put under The Fable. I posted The Fable without knowing The Nod name existed. I also posted The Fable as a mistake to myself. I originally referred to the crag above and to the right of The Nod as The Fable, after a crack route I named East of the Sun and West of the Moon (5.10 fist up high, with chain... more >>
Comments: Guy, good one, thanks for that. I have not considered how long ago this tune came out. It's like original hip hop, 1989 (I had to check). That might date us both. "...I through her out, I don't mess around with no Oscar Mayer Wiener, better make sure your girl is pure for Funky Cold Medina...."
The corner is great, 5.9. I lead it again last weekend, cleaned it up again too. It does not take long for the shrubs to regrow.
I really doubt I made the first accent of this nice crack in 2005. Even then, I assumed it had been done. I've talked with a couple of people but don't have any info on earlier ascents. I don't recommend the second pitch of this route, not really a pitch at all; really dirty scrambling. Traversing off to the east at the fist belay is pr... more >>
Comments: I climbed this route in 2005, and again today. Today, I did not see any "lowering slings". I did see some worn looking slings in a crevice near the top of the formation. This was at about 200 feet. Today we left lengths of rope around two trees to allow a single 60 m rope descent. In 2005, we left the purple webbing above the right dihedral for descent. The purple webbing was not in place today. After looking more closely at the formation today, it looks possible to down scramble to the north a... more >>
Comments: I plan on changing out the first two cold shut hangers. Very poor and unwelded. I want to believe this route was retrobolted, the fat bolt by the fat crack seems uncharacteristic for the first ascentionists, VW and partner. But then so do the unwelded cold shuts. The second pitch is really pretty nice, easier than other 11+'s, and the first pitch makes for a good warm up.
Comments: I only top roped this self belay, so I can't make real definitive statements. However, I can almost guarantee a fall immediately after either of the cruxes would be nasty, especially the lower crux right off the ledge. I have led Fantastic Voyage, and feel like this route will be a step up. Stout. I wonder how many leads this has had? The climbing is great.
Comments: I could not find the start to the red approach. After getting to the ledge below the chimney and looking back, it looked to me like the red approach was not so easy. The yellow is very nice, straight forward, has a caren at the base and goes at about 5.6.
Comments: The first pitch is great, and a great challenge too. There was a fixed wire as of 10-16-09 (somewhat helpful), but with a perfect # 3 Cam. placement just below it. A # 5 Cam. does indeed fit nicely in the ďAĒ. Be ready with something like a .75 Cam. after this crux. As a warm up, I felt this pitch was less of a boulder problem than the Ear pitch.
The last two bolts of the Ear seem a bit loose, but nowhere near removable by hand.
We rappelled the route, great if no one else is... more >>
Comments: Okay, the second pitch is nice. As good as any of the other second pitches here that I've climbed-they have so far had bolts farther spaced than the first pitches. Makes for fun. Fairly certain this is the route I was told about, Better Than TV, 5.11c**
Comments: I have yet to climb this route. I believe this is a route a friend of mine was always trying to get me to climb. There was only one route on the face when he put it up. So, I don't think Craig put this up. And, it may have also be called Better Than TV. Or was it Better Than VD? Depends whether you like it or not I guess.