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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Gulag Archipelago (5.11+) By: MorganH When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was one of the best routes I've been on at Smith! Just after the crux bulge on the 3rd pitch, there are some loose flakes. I would second the recommendation to link the 3rd and 4th pitches, but there would be some ledge fall potential from the crumbly stuff on the last pitch if you whipped. I thought the 3rd pitch, although easier, was absolutely brilliant and not to be missed.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo By: MorganH When: Dec 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: RIP Dave
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side : Like Honey (5.12a/b) By: MorganH When: Oct 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a much better entrance to Apologies. Thanks Chris.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Narrow Arrow and further ri... : With Apologies to Walter B (5.11b) By: MorganH When: Oct 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's also possible to approach the traverse more directly from below now, which is still kind of dirty, but reasonably enjoyable climbing. It probably adds about 30' to the route which makes it a bit fuller value. Not quite up to the quality of the rest of the LTW routes, although it may clean up in time.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side : Model Worker (5.11c) : Photo By: MorganH When: Aug 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's amazing how much the maples have grown. The cliff probably used to dry out a lot faster.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Iconoclast (5.10c) By: MorganH When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Psychopath variation is really fun, not particularly hard, but the crux is techy and tricky. I would recommend continuing past the block of doom about 25' to the base of the dihedral on P4 if you've got a 70m. The belay will be more comfortable with better pro and the belayer will be able to see their climber. I would also link P6 & P7 together, take a #2 & #3 C4 to protect the mini dihedral. We didn't find the two widely spaced bolts on the face before the belay at the t... more >>
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Edge of Space (5.11b) By: MorganH When: Jun 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun climbing. I actually thought the "10d" pitch off of library ledge was more challenging than the arrette pitch. It was a great way to finish off Iconoclast. The Psychopath pitch was also fun, although a tricky crux.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lookout Point Area : Lookout Point : Baby Tapir (5.11a) By: MorganH When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun moves, but over too soon.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lookout Point Area : Lookout Point : An Act of Strange Boar (5.11a) By: MorganH When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun line!
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Middle Town Walls : The Blues Cliff : Number 9 (5.10a) By: MorganH When: Feb 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris Henson did the FA, I believe.
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Location: WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Propaganda (5.12c) By: MorganH When: Mar 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: RIP Triplett
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