Comments: RMF prohibits the placement of any fixed gear. As their by-law is written, a climber could infact drill holes and place removable gear and still be in compliance. None of the routes on this arete have ever been lead... that's the draw.
Comments: Ha... already got the FFA haha! U might be able to do it on gear but it'd be R/X probably and drilling holes in that just to place RB's (that aren't meant to hold whippers) seems kinda silly.
Historically everything on this corner has been done on TR and claimed as FA/FFA. Sam Slater & Swan Song, Bill Lutkis and Black Orchid (FA on aid then TR for FFA), KN and Cygnus X. Though to be the first to lead a route on this corner would be pretty impressive.
Comments: With a pry bar and hammer im sure I could find some solid rock for an anchor. Might just be down a layer ;-) Actually, the bush that has the anchor built through it looks to have some solid rock right behind it.
Comments: If ur talking about the large pocket under the overhanging flake which is what it looks like 6 is referring to, then its def not a bomber placement due to that hollow flake. I've placed gear in there too but never would I want to whip on it considering the bomber piece just to the left and a foot or so lower. Feel free to take some video of yourself whipping on it to prove me wrong ;-) I'm always up for some good entertainment at work.
Comments: Flared, hollow, and loose. Sure a small cam fits in there but the rock around it sucks and wouldn't hold a whipper. Just above # 5 is a constricted slot perfect for a bomber small nut. Placing a cam in that flake and expecting it to be G rated pro or even just to hold a whip is dangerous. It's just not a good placement. It's much safer to forgo that placement and use the bomber slot.
Comments: Haha thanks CK! Got any ascents on this block or other routes you want to record? We organized an adopt-a-crag here last year and cleaned a lot of garbage out.. including all the lead pipes ;-)Still haven't come across any homeless people back there, just the signs they were there. Frankly, more climbers = less homeless people and a cleaner area. As for gluing holds, huh? where did you glue because I've only been climbin in CT 15 yrs and I only know of one glued hold. Oh and I deleted ... more >>
Comments: For climber impact reasons, try NOT to TR off any trees at Chatfield or the rest of CT for that matter. Please try leading to anchors for sport routes or lowering down and setting your rope on anchors and rapping from there. Only TR off trees if absolutely necessary.
Comments: Probably Martin T. from parks and rec and some of his friends. Trad climbing the right side looks like a freakin' suicide mission IMHO. The only side that remotely looked safe was the left side of the wall.