Comments: To call the crux slabby would be an understatement. Great route. If you're not up to leading this, it is very easy to swing over from the anchors of No Pressure to clip a directional for a top rope.
Comments: If you look closely, you can see 2 chopped bolts just left of the upper part of the chimney.... The whole building an anchor, then walking over to rap doesn't bother me at all, but that stupid Star Drive does.
Comments: Surprised no one else was as spooked about the 2 giant, detatched blocks under the roof as I was. The first one you can barely avoid and is a large chockstone that moves, the second is a very, very large block that you have to clip the next bolt from. It's not loose, but certainly sounds like death. Spooky!
Hard to give this route any stars with a canyon full of excellent routes that don't sound like death.
Comments: Thats funny, Jason. We always called that face a slab, too, but it's really hard to call it a slab when it's almost dead vertical! But compared to the massive roof above, ya it's a slab. TECHY is an understatement.
Comments: Nice work, guys! This route is a great warm up for the harder stuff around. Really cool stemming, with great stone. Thought clippin' the chains was tough for 5.9, but maybe I'm just a weenie.
Comments: I have to disagree with the description here. Though it does have options of stepping left or right to either of the neighboring routes, I thought that climbing the route directly felt very natural and not forced at all. Solid for the grade.
Comments: Excellent pitch. As for the "rope drag", if you use a 48" sling on both the webbing (bail tat?) under the roof, and then another 48" on your first piece in the roof; The drag should be pretty minimal.
I used 1 #4 Camalot in the wide part before the roof, and nothing smaller than a #0.5 Camalot.
Comments: Water was soo high you couldnt walk to the start of the route from the gully rap. We built an anchor on top and fixed a line down to the bolted belay above p1, then raped our lead line to a small perch at the base of p1. Excellent, excellent route. Thought the dihederal on pitch 2 was harder than 10a...