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Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 162
Total Points: 2,826
Last Year: 316
Last 30 Days: 28
232 Compliments
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All (2986) | Routes (51) | Areas (7) | Photos (364) | Comments (391) | Posts (854) | Stars (1016) | Ratings (303)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Crazy Fingers (5.12a/b PG13)
By: Monty When: Dec 17, 2011

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Comments: This is a great route that is relatively safe. I found it nice to have 2 00 c3s to protect the lower crux. Super fun.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Lime and Punishment (5.11b/c)
By: Monty When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments: Cool route! Definitely one where the sequences seem like they are going to be hard, but after doing them your surprised. Balancy and steep?!?!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : El Gaucho : Inknobvious Line (5.9)
By: Monty When: Nov 1, 2011

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Comments: No gear needed. Just 4-5 slings and a couple draws. Thought the traverse was much harder than 5.9 though. An 80m rope might get you down.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") (5.10b)
By: Monty When: Nov 1, 2011

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Comments: Great pitch! We used this to start ghost rider which was a great way to start the day. The slab above the crack is pretty friable though and leads you (or at least me) right into a bush when you are the most run out... Exciting but fun. Nothing like a 5th class bushwhack!


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: Oct 4, 2011

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Comments: Gotta love that right index finger. Looks like it's really helping ;)


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Creekafixion (5.11)
By: Monty When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: For Creekafixion, you tip toe traverse over the roof following the bolts. You might be confusing Creekafixion with the route to the left that pulls a roof. It will all become very obvious once you are up there.
Cheers


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Topaz (5.10d) : Photo
By: Monty When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: You guys trying to get me in trouble? Hehe, it really is spelled Kirsten. My father still can't get it right, though.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: Aug 31, 2011

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Comments: HAHA, that was the first day I met you and Kevin. I thought you guys were freakin nuts!... Wait I still do.
Cheers


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall
By: Monty When: Aug 31, 2011

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Comments: As always, thanks for your input, Mike.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: Monty When: Aug 12, 2011

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Comments: Never had a problem with a single 70m. When in doubt on the raps, go climbers left.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: Aug 11, 2011

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Comments: Just Awesome!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Engagement (5.10+)
By: Monty When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: Great work to everyone involved, and congratulations on the Engagement! What a special route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c)
By: Monty When: Aug 3, 2011

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Comments: If you're bored with the start of TDD, you can add another 5.12 crux by starting up Reefer Madness. Traverse up and left at the 3rd bolt staying at the level of the jug before the crux of Reefer.
Dumb but fun.


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Higher Calling (5.11d)
By: Monty When: Aug 1, 2011

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Comments: Great route! 3 awesome, sustained pitches. The 3rd pitch has a wicked pump to it that made it feel just as hard as the 2nd "crux pitch".... Maybe I was just still pumped.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Road Warrior (5.10)
By: Monty When: Jul 30, 2011

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Comments: Awesome route!
Rack beta: single set from #0.3-5; three #6s; 2-3 #3 Bigbros; 1 #4 Bigbro.

Seems like a lot, but it was very nice to have all of the extra big stuff. Also the 2nd pitch in the offwidth is very tipped out 6s....


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : The Slapper (V5-6)
By: Monty When: Jul 21, 2011

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Comments: This problem is awesome! Definitely one of my favorites up there.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Fool's Gold (5.12+)
By: Monty When: Jul 19, 2011

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Comments: Currently draws are fixed on the arete, and there is a hand line fixed across the 5.0 traverse that allows quick, easy access to and from the route. I'm going to leave these in place for a month or two while some friends work the line (and hopefully entice others as well) but will remove them in the fall.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Lichen Lung (5.10d)
By: Monty When: Jul 10, 2011

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Comments: Definitely thought this was harder and more technical than Mud in Your Eye. Awesome line that will test your technique of the awkwardness. I thought the first slot was pretty heady, a fall would not be advised.
Great Route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Abney 74 (V4-5)
By: Monty When: Jul 2, 2011

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Comments: Any info? Is this the boulder below Red Slab?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Left Torpedo Tube (5.10+)
By: Monty When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: The new guide calls this 10a.... That's a mighty big sandbag, but then again I'm a beached whale when it comes to this wide stuff. If you're squeamish in offwidths, take one #1, two #5s and #6s, a single #3 Bigbro, and one or two #4 Bigbros. That'll sew it up well.

Oh, and 0.75-4 for an anchor.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Inner Gorilla (5.12d)
By: Monty When: Jun 6, 2011

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Comments: Got on this thing a month or so ago. Cool route that is a lot harder than it appears from the ground. Nice job, fellas.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Song of the Dodo (5.12a R)
By: Monty When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: The missing bolt has been replaced. Thanks to ACE for allowing this replacement.


Location: Darren Mabe : "Engagement", Serial Pillar... : Photo
By: Monty When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: Nice work! Sounds awesome and "engaging".


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Bishop Crack (5.12c)
By: Monty When: May 21, 2011

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Comments: Bring a #5 to protect the first chimney. I was very happy to have it. After that, it's fingers forever!

As for the midway anchor, it was in great shape. Definitely agree that climbing the route in one pitch is the way to go, but that definitely takes a lot of gear.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : Hang'n Ten on the Wall of G... (5.10+ PG13)
By: Monty When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: Definitely agree about doing the direct start instead of The Waffle. Really fun route.


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