Comments: Combining this with Texas Hold'em makes for a fantastic route. For those who aren't cranking 12d (or b for that matter) you can avoid the 12d crux via a bolted 5.11 variation that has fun climbing and the 12b traverse is an easy pendulum if you don't have the time/ patience to figure out the boulder problem. This makes for a very fun outing while staying at the 12a grade. Texas Tower Lite?
Comments: Finally got on this a few weeks back. Totally worth climbing Suburban Cowgirls (I enjoy that awkward pitch anyway). Great, hard climbing on this thing on really cool stone. Nice vision, Luke. I thought getting off the ledge was really hard!
Comments: Awesome dome in the heart of the Platte.
If you enjoy wandering aimlessly through thorns and bushwhacking, read no further, but if you want some approach beta and enjoy bushwhacking and thorns, here's some more info.
Once on FS 211, follow it past the Goose Creek Campground. Continue along 211 until you are past sunshine dome by a little ways and you see an old Forest Service road (actually 211) that has a locked gate and room for one car to park on the east side of the road. If you have ... more >>
Comments: Hands down the best face pitches I've climbed in The Platte, and we didn't even get to do the crux last pitch. The 2nd and 3rd pitch bolts have all been replaced except for a buttonhead on the 3rd pitch that protects the final runout to the anchors, which are also old :(. 30 ft to the right is the anchor for on the edge which is in a little bit better shape, but both are in need of being updated. The crux pitch is currently sporting 1/4"ers, hence why we didn't climb it. You can not get down... more >>
Comments: This route is awesome, and may be one of the best unknown routes I've done in the creek. I took (all BD's) 1 ea .3, #1, #2; (2)#4, (3)#4.5, (2)New #5's and (2)Old #5. I found the old(green) 5 to be key as a new 5 is tipped and #6 will not fit.
Comments: Sounds maybe like a loose nut on the bolt that had backed off until it finally got pulled off... One of the draw backs to fixed draws is people rarely check the condition of the bolt before climbing further. No good regardless.
Comments: Did you find any pins on your route? When I was bolting Fools Gold I looked over to the left (probably further left than your line) and saw some ancient looking pins. I love that section of Creek Side.
Comments: Powerful, sporty, and awesome! It sounds silly, but a 0.75, 5ft off the ground in the horizontal helps a lot in protecting the start. It keeps your nuts from zippering and your belayer from flying up.