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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Topaz (5.10d) : Photo
By: Monty When: Sep 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You guys trying to get me in trouble? Hehe, it really is spelled Kirsten. My father still can't get it right, though.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: Aug 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: HAHA, that was the first day I met you and Kevin. I thought you guys were freakin nuts!... Wait I still do.
Cheers
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall
By: Monty When: Aug 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As always, thanks for your input, Mike.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: Monty When: Aug 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Never had a problem with a single 70m. When in doubt on the raps, go climbers left.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: Aug 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just Awesome!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Engagement (5.10+)
By: Monty When: Aug 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great work to everyone involved, and congratulations on the Engagement! What a special route.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c)
By: Monty When: Aug 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're bored with the start of TDD, you can add another 5.12 crux by starting up Reefer Madness. Traverse up and left at the 3rd bolt staying at the level of the jug before the crux of Reefer.
Dumb but fun.
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Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Higher Calling (5.11d)
By: Monty When: Aug 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! 3 awesome, sustained pitches. The 3rd pitch has a wicked pump to it that made it feel just as hard as the 2nd "crux pitch".... Maybe I was just still pumped.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Road Warrior (5.10)
By: Monty When: Jul 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route!
Rack beta: single set from #0.3-5; three #6s; 2-3 #3 Bigbros; 1 #4 Bigbro.
Seems like a lot, but it was very nice to have all of the extra big stuff. Also the 2nd pitch in the offwidth is very tipped out 6s....
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : The Slapper (V5-6)
By: Monty When: Jul 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem is awesome! Definitely one of my favorites up there.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Fool's Gold (5.12+)
By: Monty When: Jul 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Currently draws are fixed on the arete, and there is a hand line fixed across the 5.0 traverse that allows quick, easy access to and from the route. I'm going to leave these in place for a month or two while some friends work the line (and hopefully entice others as well) but will remove them in the fall.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Lichen Lung (5.10d)
By: Monty When: Jul 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely thought this was harder and more technical than Mud in Your Eye. Awesome line that will test your technique of the awkwardness. I thought the first slot was pretty heady, a fall would not be advised.
Great Route.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Abney 74 (V4-5)
By: Monty When: Jul 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any info? Is this the boulder below Red Slab?
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Left Torpedo Tube (5.10+)
By: Monty When: Jun 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new guide calls this 10a.... That's a mighty big sandbag, but then again I'm a beached whale when it comes to this wide stuff. If you're squeamish in offwidths, take one #1, two #5s and #6s, a single #3 Bigbro, and one or two #4 Bigbros. That'll sew it up well.
Oh, and 0.75-4 for an anchor.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Inner Gorilla (5.12d)
By: Monty When: Jun 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got on this thing a month or so ago. Cool route that is a lot harder than it appears from the ground. Nice job, fellas.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Song of the Dodo (5.12a R)
By: Monty When: Jun 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The missing bolt has been replaced. Thanks to ACE for allowing this replacement.
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Location: Darren Mabe : "Engagement", Serial Pillar... : Photo
By: Monty When: Jun 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work! Sounds awesome and "engaging".
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Bishop Crack (5.12c)
By: Monty When: May 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring a #5 and #6 Camalot to protect the first chimney. I was very happy to have both. After that, it's fingers forever!
As for the midway anchor, it was in great shape. Definitely agree that climbing the route in one pitch is the way to go, but that would definitely take a lot of gear/ balls.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : Hang'n Ten on the Wall of G... (5.10+ PG13)
By: Monty When: May 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely agree about doing the direct start instead of The Waffle. Really fun route.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : The Millenium Boulder : Photo
By: Monty When: May 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's a big Rattler! So how long did you sit up there, Jay? That hike out musta seemed like it took 2 hours.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Lobby : Unknown (V7-8 X) : Photo
By: Monty When: Apr 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sick! This pic does no justice to the seriousness of this problem. It looks horrifying. Nice work.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10d) : Photo
By: Monty When: Apr 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: 14. Road Kill, 11c/d (actually it's a more left, the pic is misleading)
15. Peoples Choice, 10
17. Slot Machine, 11b/c
18. Full House, 11d?
19. Wild Card, 12a
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : The Pass : Prince Charles (V8)
By: Monty When: Apr 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just Classic.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Jewel Of The Mild (5.10c)
By: Monty When: Apr 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb, Kev! If you're a little squimish about the high first bolt (even if your not), a bomber nut can be placed before committing to the face.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : .30-06 (5.12a)
By: Monty When: Apr 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the rating depends on the recent bird activity in the area. If it's poopy..., 12a or maybe harder (depends on your tolerance). If it's clean, 11+ seems totally fair. With that said, it might be best to climb this route in the early spring, since the pigeons are just coming back and it had the winter to get cleansed with snow.
Great route.
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