There are some routes on Lion's Head, but we have had a very hard time learning about their history. I'd say it is safe to assume that all the "major" weaknesses have been climbed. I haven't heard of any new routes on Lions Head yet, but I think the approach alone is keeping most climbers away. Lion's Head is completely open to trad climbing from Aug. 1st - Feb. 1st, but all proposed fixed hardware must be submitted to a committee for approval before being installed. Unfortunately ... more >>
Comments: I think this is actually "Never named" FA by Jason Haas and myself, listed as #39 in the book. I could definitely see it feeling sandbagged at 5.7! We figured the route was 10-. Crushing My Gear to Climb is just right of this route and has no bolts or anchor.
Comments: Really enjoyable route that is tricky and pumpy all at the same time. I thought (3) x 0.75s felt sufficient especially if you have triples in 0.5s. There was a rope anchor up and climber's left that allowed for an easy descent back to your packs.
Comments: Such a fun route on great stone. As stated above, the first pitch is VERY "R"....
A note about the rappels: - Yes, you can easily get off with one 70m. - To find the raps, walk to the saddle and look for a large boulder that overhangs the edge of Arrowhead. Peek around the corner and you'll find the anchor. 2 raps and a short 5th class downclimb puts you at your packs.
Comments: P1 is definitely the money pitch on this climb, but the 2nd pitch is the spicy namesake. The best way to climb this route is to climb past the large, solar ledge on p1 and continue up and slightly right (path of least resistance) to a small stance near the base of some flaring finger cracks with a buttonhead halfway up. P2 climb the flaring fingers via some face holds passing an "ancient relic." Pull onto a sloping ledge, move left and pull a small roof (exciting), and finish on easier ground... more >>
Comments: Combining this with Texas Hold'em makes for a fantastic route. For those who aren't cranking 12d (or b for that matter) you can avoid the 12d crux via a bolted 5.11 variation that has fun climbing and the 12b traverse is an easy pendulum if you don't have the time/ patience to figure out the boulder problem. This makes for a very fun outing while staying at the 12a grade. Texas Tower Lite?
Comments: Finally got on this a few weeks back. Totally worth climbing Suburban Cowgirls (I enjoy that awkward pitch anyway). Great, hard climbing on this thing on really cool stone. Nice vision, Luke. I thought getting off the ledge was really hard!