Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Just a teaser


Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Monty


Point Rank: # 162
Total Points: 2,946
Last Year: 292
Last 30 Days: 87
237 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Monty been climbing?










Contributions


All 3064 | Routes 57 | Areas 8 | Photos 372 | Page Improvments | Comments 396 | Posts 876 | Stars 1048 | Ratings 307
Page 2 of 16.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park
By: Monty When: Sep 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Dan,

There are some routes on Lion's Head, but we have had a very hard time learning about their history. I'd say it is safe to assume that all the "major" weaknesses have been climbed. I haven't heard of any new routes on Lions Head yet, but I think the approach alone is keeping most climbers away. Lion's Head is completely open to trad climbing from Aug. 1st - Feb. 1st, but all proposed fixed hardware must be submitted to a committee for approval before being installed. Unfortunately ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Never Named, No. 39 (5.9+)
By: Monty When: Sep 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I think this is actually "Never named" FA by Jason Haas and myself, listed as #39 in the book. I could definitely see it feeling sandbagged at 5.7! We figured the route was 10-. Crushing My Gear to Climb is just right of this route and has no bolts or anchor.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : Pocket Hercules (5.11d)
By: Monty When: Aug 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Really enjoyable route that is tricky and pumpy all at the same time. I thought (3) x 0.75s felt sufficient especially if you have triples in 0.5s. There was a rope anchor up and climber's left that allowed for an easy descent back to your packs.


Location: ID : The Fins
By: Monty When: Aug 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Some more approach beta can be found here.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Machine Gun Funk (5.13a)
By: Monty When: Jul 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great route that is cleaning up nicely. I can't imagine anything else breaking off in the roof. Definitely not soft for the grade anymore.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Indirect Savant (5.12c)
By: Monty When: Jul 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I'm confused, is this the right or the left of the two Idiot routes? The left route felt mid-11 (we did not climb the right).


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Ranch Hand : Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon (5.8 PG13)
By: Monty When: Jul 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: We originally did this route in 1 pitch to near the top with a 70m rope.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Arrowplane (5.11a)
By: Monty When: Jul 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Such a fun route on great stone. As stated above, the first pitch is VERY "R"....

A note about the rappels:
- Yes, you can easily get off with one 70m.
- To find the raps, walk to the saddle and look for a large boulder that overhangs the edge of Arrowhead. Peek around the corner and you'll find the anchor. 2 raps and a short 5th class downclimb puts you at your packs.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: Jun 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Is the rope out left hanging from the Coleman Direct anchor or is this way far right on the Cascades Wall?


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Ancient Relics (5.10)
By: Monty When: Jun 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: P1 is definitely the money pitch on this climb, but the 2nd pitch is the spicy namesake. The best way to climb this route is to climb past the large, solar ledge on p1 and continue up and slightly right (path of least resistance) to a small stance near the base of some flaring finger cracks with a buttonhead halfway up. P2 climb the flaring fingers via some face holds passing an "ancient relic." Pull onto a sloping ledge, move left and pull a small roof (exciting), and finish on easier ground... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : Permission Wall
By: Monty When: Jun 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: From the large ledge on top of pitch 1, unrope and walk climber's left towards the Tan Corridor. There is a bolted anchor that deposits you on that trail.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Dungeon : Zed's Dead (5.12+)
By: Monty When: May 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yup sorry for the confusion there. It's the only route I've climbed at Staunton that a #4 is mandatory.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: May 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Leo, thanks for the pic but this is Ginger Snap.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Dungeon
By: Monty When: May 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Snagging the FA of Zed's Dead in the Dungeon:



Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Coffin Crack (5.9)
By: Monty When: May 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: That's lame.... Stealing anchors is bad mmmkay.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Coleman Direct (5.8)
By: Monty When: May 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely sounds like you guys did the first pitch of Ancient Relics. I was battling wasps on that pitch so maybe that's why it felt 5.9 haha.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Cave of Eternal Stench (5.9-)
By: Monty When: May 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If wind is broken in the cave, the name will reveal itself....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Monty When: May 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for all or your community service, Jay!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: May 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: ...and modern gear, hahah.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Coyote Calling (5.11+)
By: Monty When: Apr 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: One of the best routes in the Desert. DO IT!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Texas Tower Direct (5.12d)
By: Monty When: Apr 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Combining this with Texas Hold'em makes for a fantastic route. For those who aren't cranking 12d (or b for that matter) you can avoid the 12d crux via a bolted 5.11 variation that has fun climbing and the 12b traverse is an easy pendulum if you don't have the time/ patience to figure out the boulder problem. This makes for a very fun outing while staying at the 12a grade. Texas Tower Lite?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va... : Mt. Lindsey Ice : The Motherlode : You're a Mother Lover (WI2+)
By: Monty When: Mar 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments:



Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Eat or be Eaten aka Super S... (5.10c)
By: Monty When: Mar 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Levin's guide calls this Eat or be Eaten.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Problem Child (5.13b)
By: Monty When: Feb 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Finally got on this a few weeks back. Totally worth climbing Suburban Cowgirls (I enjoy that awkward pitch anyway). Great, hard climbing on this thing on really cool stone. Nice vision, Luke. I thought getting off the ledge was really hard!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : The French Are Here (5.12c) : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: Feb 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, Derek and ASCA!


Page 2 of 16.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>