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Pulling a small roof at 2/3 height on Mission Impossible.  Adam Sanders photo.


Member Since: Oct 26, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 10
Total Points: 15,508
Last Year: 269
Last 30 Days: 30
584 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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All (5153) | Routes (504) | Areas (131) | Photos (1604) | Comments (478) | Posts (1631) | Stars (749) | Ratings (56)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Verve (5.13c)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 19, 2009

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Comments: A full explanation of the "Four-Plan" is here. (read through all the comments)


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Aragon : Rodellar : ... : L'any que ve Tambe (5.12d)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 14, 2009

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Comments: You're right, my bad. I meant "Les Vielles Glories", which is the best 13a at Rodellar according to 8a.nu's "Top 100" list.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Verve (5.13c)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 13, 2009

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Comments: Colin, FYI, "Sven" is a legendary troll from the climbingboulder.com days. I'm pretty sure he's not a real person, and his story is a fabrication, though it wouldn't be too surprising these days if someone were to flash a route like this.

PS, your comments are very much appreciated! Keep 'em coming.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Aragon : Rodellar
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 11, 2009

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Comments: We were here at the end of November and it was definitely "too late". We showed up on the 28th of November, and apparently it was bomber thru the end of that day, but then it rained the next two days, and that shut the whole place down. You would think a crag with so many huge caves would be good to go in the rain, but 90% of the good routes seap dramatically for days after it rains.

Anyway, this is one of the best sport crags on the planet, but I would come in late Oct to mid-November.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Aragon : Rodellar : ... : L'any que ve Tambe (5.12d)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 11, 2009

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Comments: Totally agree with Lee, this was one of the best routes I did in Spain. The tufa action on this is amazing. This is also one of the few tufa routes at Rodellar that stays (mostly) dry in the rain. I really wanted to do Gracias Fina (immediately left of this) after doing this, since this was so good, but it was quite wet.

This felt hard for the grade to me, but some of the holds were wet & my hands were numb, so who knows.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Aragon : Rodellar : ... : El Delfin (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 11, 2009

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Comments: Its really not that bad. I agree the rock looks like total choss, but nothing broke on me. This is a pretty amazing feature, and for that reason alone its a classic, even if the climbing isn't all that spectacular.

The rock is extremely sharp though. I would save this for your last day, cause your palms will be thrashed when you're done.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Rude Femmes (5.13c/d)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 10, 2009

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Comments: Ya, Ian (Caldwell) sent it and so did Tim (Garland). I think they did it last fall or so?


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Siurana : ... : L'Escamarla (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 9, 2009

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Comments: From the ground it looks like it might be possible to climb over to the large bushy ledge around the 3rd or 4th bolt for a no-hands rest. However, when I was on the route, it didn't seem like the holds go that way, and I didn't see any chalk heading that way, so it seems like most climbers agree the ledge is "off". I'm not sure it would affect the difficulty very much, since it comes pretty early in the route, but it would certainly reduce the quality of the route.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: Michael,

Congratulations on the send! Lee's interpretation of my comment is spot on. My point was that, until the critic steps up to do it in better style, they should keep their mouth shut. I assume that Bloom, et al chose to bolt it because they felt they couldn't get solid gear. Considering C3s are new, I wonder if there was safe pro using 1997 technology. I don't know those guys, & I've never been on the route, so I don't have a dog in this fight, but I think its lame for people to cr... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Freerider (5.12d PG13)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 16, 2009

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Comments: The Teflon Corner is insecure ninja stemming. Its the dihedral left of the Huber Variation. The pitch actually wanders all over the place, and veers way left, below the teflon corner, before jogging back right to an optional belay right of the Huber Variation.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Orange Juice (5.12c)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 16, 2009

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Comments: When we first showed up in the morning we were the only people there, and it reminded me exactly of Australia. Climbing in the middle of nowhere, with virtually no trace of human passage, except for chalk & a line of bolts. Then the crowds showed up. Oh well!

There definitely is a hard section at the start, but probably no harder than ~12a with good beta. Your description of the crux is spot on--lots of chalk but not a lot to hold onto.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Persepolis : Zendebad (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 16, 2009

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Comments: Allegedly Lynn Hill thought this was "13b for short people". I thought it was harder than any of the other "13a" routes I tried at the Red. The crux move is a big reach from an undercling that requires your entire wingspan. If you can't make that reach (I couldn't at 5'7"), this move will be very hard.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Orange Juice (5.12c)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 12, 2009

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Comments: To answer my own question, here are comments from MR. Loeffler posted on RedRiverClimbing.com:

"...Neal Strickland, Dave Lutes and myself were developing FR. Then Porter got wind of it and showed up. Not that we cared if Porter would show up, but we knew he was capable of bolting the entire wall in a weekend. Hence "There Goes the Neighborhood" by Neal. Then, Porter responded with his route, "The Infidel". I was with Porter one d... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Dark Side : Shanghai (5.12d)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 12, 2009

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Comments: Dude, you just blew everyone's onsight with that key piece of beta! Shh!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: Tough Guys,

Feel free to lead past those bolts without clipping them. Be sure to report back here so we know how it went.

Good luck!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Sometime Direct (5.10d R) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 30, 2009

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Comments: I think that's what you call "Cheese-head hair", although usually the people that get it have mullets.










Go Bears! (but I'll be rooting for the Pack on Monday Night)


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 29, 2009

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Comments: The Sinks cliffline faces South, so most routes will be baking most of the time in August. There are pockets of shade at different times of the day if you know where to look.

Wild Iris is 3000 feet higher than Sinks, so is generally a bit cooler. However, a lot of the routes at the Iris also face south & it can be hot. There is more shade at Wild Iris than Sinks though. The OK Corral & Zorro are in the shade till noon, and the Erratic is in the shade all day.

Never been to Ten Sleep but ... more >>


Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Cowboy Poetry
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 25, 2009

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Comments: I was told by a prominent local friend of mine that the infamous Alf has been known to chop routes at the Iris. My source didn't know if Alf did the job on this route specifically. I think the community would support replacing the bolts, but its not a high priority for locals.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 23, 2009

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Comments: Adam Taylor just sent "The Golden Ticket", perhaps the hardest route at the Red at 14c or d. Here are his comments posted at Redriverclimbing.com

"As for the route itself... it starts out nice and slow with maybe a 12c to the 4th bolt, wherein lies a massive jug slot, just enough to get one warmed up. The eight move sequence leading to the next bolt consists of thin m... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Fullphilment (5.11b)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 18, 2009

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Comments: This is a good route with excellent rock, but it tends to be covered in dirt most of the time, which significantly detracts from the experience. The climbing is relatively weird a la Ivory Tower & most of the other routes on this part of the cliff. To keep the grade in the 5.11 range, it's necessary to weave a great deal to either side of the bolt line. I didn't find it to be runout by old school standards. Probably not the best warm-up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Girlfriend's Backside (V7)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 15, 2009

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Comments: Done, but you may not agree with my rating. I just picked what looked like the consensus (I've never been on it). Someone suggested that the "Classics" generator be modified to use the consensus rating for each route, which would also solve this problem.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Prime Evil (5.12a)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 15, 2009

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Comments: Great new addition! Very continuous & technical at the grade. It's not over till you clip the anchor.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : The Rolling Log (5.11b)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 10, 2009

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Comments: Hands down the worst route I've done at Rifle (haven't gotten around to Moroni Blows yet). The rock on this is extremely sketchy. If you must climb this, bring a helmet for you & your belayer.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Red Dawn (5.11d)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 10, 2009

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Comments: I wonder if Angus was on The Rolling Log, which is everything that he said (too short, too scary, too dirty).

Red Dawn is almost as good as the movie, but a little on the short side.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : No Risk No Fin (5.10d)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 5, 2009

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Comments: This guy is currently really loose & dirty. Use a stick clip and have your belayer stand to the side. It looks like this will become a nice route if it ever gets properly cleaned.


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