Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.


Member Since: Oct 26, 2006
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Monomaniac


Point Rank: # 10
Total Points: 16,158
Last Year: 842
Last 30 Days: 537
631 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Monomaniac been climbing?










Contributions


All 5321 | Routes 530 | Areas 134 | Photos 1672 | Page Improvements | Comments 483 | Posts 1663 | Stars 783 | Ratings 56
Page 6 of 20.  <<First   <Prev   4  5  6  7  8   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully : Bongo Fury (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 15, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: "Frizmo" has something to do with Jeff Frizzel. I've heard that something broke on this a few years ago and it might be 13b now?


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") (5.13d)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 8, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Many thanks to whomever had the vision to equip this line! And thanks to Ben, Josh, and Kate for the belays & moral support.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Baby Blue (5.11a)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 7, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: lol!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cash Wall : Guns in the Vault (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 7, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: This thing looks really cool, nice work, Nathan!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Manly Bulges (5.13c/d)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 5, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Ben & I were able to get the new bolt in today. Thanks, Ben, for the belay and the use of your drill!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Subatomic Fingerlock (close... (5.10a)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 3, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: There are archeological sites at the base of the cliff.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Manly Bulges (5.13c/d) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 1, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: You don't use duct tape to hold your draws up?


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Manly Bulges (5.13c/d)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 27, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Ok, I emailed Ryan Lewis & Ian Spencer-Green, and they both approve the addition of a bolt at the start. If there are any objections, speak up.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Two Hearts (5.11b/c)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 27, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Ben's Dad? If so, I think it's spelled Schmitt.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : The Thing (5.13-)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 27, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Here's how I did it back in the day:



I thought it was low 13b with my sequence.

Looking at your video (DTP), it certainly doesn't look like you're off route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Manly Bulges (5.13c/d)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 27, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I can add a bolt if nobody objects. I thought about doing it, but I thought I should send it first in its current state. It can be made safe the way it is, but it's kinda ridiculous for a route like this, at Cactus Cliff of all places, to have too few bolts. I lead it ground up my 2nd burn, and it was mildly terrifying making the last few moves to the first bolt. You could definitely fall there, and a fall would definitely put you in the hospital (or worse).


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Manly Bulges (5.13c/d)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 25, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Sent this yesterday. IMO, this is slightly easier than Green Bonus. I agree that this is sharp as hell, particularly the two-finger dish at the crux bulge, and the bolting could be improved. The crux bolt should probably be moved down & left ~12", and there really needs to be another bolt at the start. Until then, it's possible to scramble up to the ledge and pass a stick clip up to pre-clip. Or climb Totally Blonde and lower down this.

I really think this is a quality route, despite the a... more >>


Location: Blitzo : Cactus and other desert pla... : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 22, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Secratary of the Interior, Not Sure? He talks like a f**


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : West Ship River Face : Solar (5.9)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 21, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I think its the first pitch traverse from the bottom of Toxic around the corner. Its not too bad but there is the potential for a pendulum. I recall the rest of the route has bomber gear.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Green Bonus (5.13+)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 19, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: There were no signs on Monday. Or a fence, or any other indication that it was private property.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Green Bonus (5.13+)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 17, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Ya, it's on private property, but I wouldn't say it's a secret. People from Boulder know where it is. It's just un-documented, and probably best if it retains a low profile.

Peter, that's really interesting. Damage took me way longer than this. I thought the Damage BP was harder (smaller holds, requiring more precision to stick the dynos, and twice as long - 8 moves vs. 4), and it comes at the end. Granted there is a good rest, but I always found it hard to rest there because it was always... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Green Bonus (5.13+)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 16, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: This is really a great route, if you don't mind the no-hands. I don't have any complaints about the rock--its better than the rock on the average Cactus route. Definitely no harder than 13c, though. I would peg the first BP at ~V8, and the second at V5 or possibly V6 if you include the clip and the resultant pump/tempo disruption (in other words, V5 on TR, V6 if leading and you don't skip the clip). Kinda hard to grade the first BP since pain tolerance is such a big factor. After doing this... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 16, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: For those interested in the Dog question, this might be of interest:
Noticed this sign at the Kiosk below Cactus Cliff.
Noticed this sign at the Kiosk below Cactus Cliff.



Location: International : Europe : Spain : Aragon : Rodellar
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 16, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I talked to some people (Emily H & Sam E) that went there in September, and they said it was "too hot". Obviously it depends on your heat tolerance. I think parts of Montserrat are good in the summer, but if you want to climb hard, I would go somewhere North.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Double Trouble (5.10b)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 16, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: So you're saying there are too many?! Some of the worst/most dangerous falls I've ever seen were on this route. I guess the problem is more a lack of clipping stances than a lack of bolts.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Section M : Arioso (5.11b)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 16, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I like MJM's descriptions. Nobody's got a gun to your head; if you don't want the blow-by-blow, stop reading.


Location: CO : Clear Creek Cat Slab to Reo...
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 11, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Comments related to "dog tags" for rappel length warnings have been moved here.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : ... : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 5, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: ...not to mention a rare shot of a 5.14 uber-climber belaying!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Ponderosa Bouldering : The Satellite : Pinball Simulator Area : ... : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 5, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: FC Barcelona?


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : The Millenium Boulder : Purity Control (V10) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 5, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Nice one, Darth!


Page 6 of 20.  <<First   <Prev   4  5  6  7  8   Next>   Last>>