Comments: I can add a bolt if nobody objects. I thought about doing it, but I thought I should send it first in its current state. It can be made safe the way it is, but it's kinda ridiculous for a route like this, at Cactus Cliff of all places, to have too few bolts. I lead it ground up my 2nd burn, and it was mildly terrifying making the last few moves to the first bolt. You could definitely fall there, and a fall would definitely put you in the hospital (or worse).
Comments: Sent this yesterday. IMO, this is slightly easier than Green Bonus. I agree that this is sharp as hell, particularly the two-finger dish at the crux bulge, and the bolting could be improved. The crux bolt should probably be moved down & left ~12", and there really needs to be another bolt at the start. Until then, it's possible to scramble up to the ledge and pass a stick clip up to pre-clip. Or climb Totally Blonde and lower down this.
I really think this is a quality route, despite the a... more >>
Comments: Ya, it's on private property, but I wouldn't say it's a secret. People from Boulder know where it is. It's just un-documented, and probably best if it retains a low profile.
Peter, that's really interesting. Damage took me way longer than this. I thought the Damage BP was harder (smaller holds, requiring more precision to stick the dynos, and twice as long - 8 moves vs. 4), and it comes at the end. Granted there is a good rest, but I always found it hard to rest there because it was always... more >>
Comments: This is really a great route, if you don't mind the no-hands. I don't have any complaints about the rock--its better than the rock on the average Cactus route. Definitely no harder than 13c, though. I would peg the first BP at ~V8, and the second at V5 or possibly V6 if you include the clip and the resultant pump/tempo disruption (in other words, V5 on TR, V6 if leading and you don't skip the clip). Kinda hard to grade the first BP since pain tolerance is such a big factor. After doing this... more >>
Comments: I talked to some people (Emily H & Sam E) that went there in September, and they said it was "too hot". Obviously it depends on your heat tolerance. I think parts of Montserrat are good in the summer, but if you want to climb hard, I would go somewhere North.
Comments: The movie Hans is refering to is called "Rock: The Soul of the Climbing Experience". You can propbably get a cheap copy from Chessler A must see, classic of the genre.
There's a hilarious segment where a local is showing the Americans how to stuff knots in pockets with a stick and Hans is making all these sarcastic remarks like, "ya know, we got camming devices that'll work for that kinda stuff...I don't see what all the fuss is, put a 3/8" bolt right there, ... more >>
Comments: One of the more hilarious experiences of our trip was when a mid-30-ish couple showed up at the refugi with an infant no older than 3 months. Everyone in the place just stared at them, and after several sleepless nights, sharing the place with only a few full-grown humans, I could only think to myself, 'now I've seen everything.'
They took a brief tour of the facilities before the mother mercifully put her foot down and demanded other arrangements.