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Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.


Member Since: Oct 26, 2006
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Total Points: 17,263
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 5570 | Routes 562 | Areas 140 | Photos 1811 | Page Improvements | Comments 488 | Posts 1685 | Stars 824 | Ratings 60
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Fission aka Ken T'ank (5.12c)
By: Monomaniac When: Jan 13, 2011

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Comments: I think the variation was bolted by Scott Hahn. I don't know if he sent it or not. He has an account here, so someone can PM him to find out....


Location: International : Europe : Switzerland
By: Monomaniac When: Jan 12, 2011

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Comments: David,

The database is built by the users. The Eiger is not in the database, because none of our users have climbed it, (or if they have, they haven't bothered to submit it). Perhaps once you do it you can add it to the database! In the mean time, this is about the the closest thing we've got. Hope its enough to get your palms sweaty.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 28, 2010

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Comments: If you like that, check out "3:10 to Yuma" with Russel Crowe & Christian Bale. There's a 10-minute sequence involving the Tunnels, plus many more NM areas such as Diablo Canyon....


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : ... : Greenwood-Locke (5.8 A2 Steep Snow R)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 28, 2010

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Comments: I've listed the historic grade of "5.8 A2" to provide a comparison to other routes of the era, however, we were able to climb it free at ~5.10+. I believe most modern summer ascents are done in similar fashion.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Taylor's Corner Area : The Drop Zone (5.11- R)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 16, 2010

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Comments: Awesome description Colby! Can you post "Jeff's picture" that you refer to in the description?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 14, 2010

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Comments: Not too many underclings on this, so I assume its the same one Tim ripped off & glued back on (clipping hold for bolt #6).

Right hand in this pic?


Undercling?
Undercling?



Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Gym Arete Direct (5.12c) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 6, 2010

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Comments: :) I get 2 haircuts/year. Clearly this was taken very soon after one of those haircuts.


Location: AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : Stikine Ice Cap : Devil's Thumb : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 6, 2010

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Comments: yep. I think it was nearing the end. It was in a super rusted-out tin can. We were reluctant to handle it, but felt it would be best to take some pics to "preserve" it.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : 40 OZ of Justice (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 29, 2010

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Comments: 60m is fine. I think this route is way under-rated. Perhaps not as good as the other Madness Cave rtes, but IMO this is the best 13a at the Lode* (*I haven't done Snooker, done all the others).


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Ken T'ank Low Start (5.12d)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 29, 2010

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Comments: I think it's better listed as a separate route. That way the star & grade consensus can be formed independently. The site is more useful as a database that way. If you are searching for CCC 12d's, this route would not come up if it was posted as a comment under Ken T'ank.


Location: AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : Stikine Ice Cap : Devil's Thumb : East Ridge (via Southeast f... (5.8+ Steep Snow) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 19, 2010

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Comments: I don't think I ever mentioned this at any other point, but Janelle made the first female ascent of the Thumb on this trip (though not on this attempt, as we were turned back by obviously deteriorating weather). As far as I know, she's still the only female to have summitted the Thumb.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Air Force Academy : Falcon Spires
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 15, 2010

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Comments: Ha! Exactly. My comment was going to be "Welcome to Colorado".


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Bottom Feeder (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 15, 2010

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Comments: There were ferns growing in the jugs at the lip, so I guess this hadn't been done in a while. Too bad; it's among the best of the grade at Shelf, IMO.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : Ring That Bell (5.13b R)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 12, 2010

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Comments:
Ari Menitove wrote:
chicks dig scars, broken bones heal,


...and the US has the highest doctor-to-daredevil ratio in the world!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : Ring That Bell (5.13b R)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 10, 2010

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Comments: Ya Brad, way to go!!! One down, eh?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Main Island : ... : Shadow (5.12d)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 3, 2010

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Comments: I'm sure it does.

Personally, I prefer duct tape:


Duct Tape to hold draw in place for reachy/despara...
Duct Tape to hold draw in place for reachy/desparate clips



Location: J. Albers : Highway 108 : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 3, 2010

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Comments: This camera angle makes your leg look like its ~7 feet long!


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Fallen Idol /Face Dancer + ... : The Fallen Idol (Pt I) (5.5)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: Note there is another route known as "Fallen Idol" which is 5.11- and a few yards left of this pillar. This route is known as "Billie Idle/Idol" in the current guides.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Air Force Academy : Eagle's Peak
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 29, 2010

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Comments: I heard a rumor that this was "closed" by the USAFA due to an accident several years ago, but I could be wrong.

Mike & I did some sketchy route up this thing c. summer 1996? We didn't have any kind of guide; we just tried to climb the best-looking line. We passed some ancient-looking fixed gear at some point, so certainly parts of it had been done before. It was pretty scrubby and probably in the 5.6-range. Maybe Mike knows more....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 26, 2010

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Comments: Some day when you have extra time (and before snow falls) drive the "back way", up North along Shelf Road to Cripple Creek. That's our standard route and we see big horns about 25% of the time. This guy was about 5 minutes north of the Great Black North, right on the road.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Last Frontier (5.10b/c) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 21, 2010

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Comments: On closer inspection, it looks to me like he has a really long tail on his knot (~18"), and that is what we are seeing between his legs. If you look close you will notice a yellow dot which I assume is the rope end, and its clear that this strand is not running through the biner that's clipped to the highest sling. I can't tell where the sharp end of the rope is, but I would guess, considering the sling, that it is running outside his leg.

...and I see plenty of feet.

How's that for too much... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Green Bonus (5.13+)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 21, 2010

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Comments: The information provided above by Mr. Hand is incorrect. The entire Gym cliffline is on BLM land, as well as most of the land north of the gym (to about half-way to the North End). But as they say on Reading Rainbow, don't take my word for it. Go here and enter Schedule Number 3549000000005. CLick on the "Show Parcel Map" button. You will want to zoom in ~4 times, then click the "Aerial Photo" check box (on the left), then pan up to the Gym area.
... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : No Man's Land (5.11b)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 19, 2010

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Comments: I concur with the comments above. I don't really understand how grades are assigned at this crag, but with good beta, this is harder than Carbs & Caffeine, and easier than Yellow Wall, so I guess that makes it "11b".


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End : Aggro Monk (5.13a PG13)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: Due to lack of friction btwn the rope & biner? I think it's doubtful one would fall onto the first bolt, since you can clip the second easily from the horizontal break. Plus the 2nd bolt is close enough that you never really lead above the 1st bolt, and the 1st is ~30' up, so you'd have to pull the belayer that far to hit the ground, which would be hard to do on what amounts to a TR fall. But ya, use your own judgment.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Corner Pockets (5.10c)
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 28, 2010

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Comments: Thanks, Glenn!


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