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Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.


Member Since: Oct 26, 2006
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 11
Total Points: 15,621
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 5207 | Routes 508 | Areas 131 | Photos 1618 | Page Improvements | Comments 481 | Posts 1660 | Stars 753 | Ratings 56
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : Stikine Ice Cap : Devil's Thumb : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 6, 2010

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Comments: yep. I think it was nearing the end. It was in a super rusted-out tin can. We were reluctant to handle it, but felt it would be best to take some pics to "preserve" it.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : 40 OZ of Justice (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 29, 2010

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Comments: 60m is fine. I think this route is way under-rated. Perhaps not as good as the other Madness Cave rtes, but IMO this is the best 13a at the Lode* (*I haven't done Snooker, done all the others).


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Ken T'ank Low Start (5.12d)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 29, 2010

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Comments: I think it's better listed as a separate route. That way the star & grade consensus can be formed independently. The site is more useful as a database that way. If you are searching for CCC 12d's, this route would not come up if it was posted as a comment under Ken T'ank.


Location: AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : Stikine Ice Cap : Devil's Thumb : East Ridge (via Southeast f... (5.8+ Steep Snow) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 19, 2010

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Comments: I don't think I ever mentioned this at any other point, but Janelle made the first female ascent of the Thumb on this trip (though not on this attempt, as we were turned back by obviously deteriorating weather). As far as I know, she's still the only female to have summitted the Thumb.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Air Force Academy : Falcon Spires
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 15, 2010

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Comments: Ha! Exactly. My comment was going to be "Welcome to Colorado".


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Bottom Feeder (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 15, 2010

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Comments: There were ferns growing in the jugs at the lip, so I guess this hadn't been done in a while. Too bad; it's among the best of the grade at Shelf, IMO.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : Ring That Bell (5.13b R)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 12, 2010

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Comments:
Ari Menitove wrote:
chicks dig scars, broken bones heal,


...and the US has the highest doctor-to-daredevil ratio in the world!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : Ring That Bell (5.13b R)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 10, 2010

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Comments: Ya Brad, way to go!!! One down, eh?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Main Island : ... : Shadow (5.12d)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 3, 2010

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Comments: I'm sure it does.

Personally, I prefer duct tape:


Duct Tape to hold draw in place for reachy/desparate clips
Duct Tape to hold draw in place for reachy/desparate clips



Location: J. Albers : Highway 108 : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 3, 2010

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Comments: This camera angle makes your leg look like its ~7 feet long!


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Fallen Idol /Face Dancer + ... : The Fallen Idol (Pt I) (5.5)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: Note there is another route known as "Fallen Idol" which is 5.11- and a few yards left of this pillar. This route is known as "Billie Idle/Idol" in the current guides.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Air Force Academy : Eagle's Peak
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 29, 2010

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Comments: I heard a rumor that this was "closed" by the USAFA due to an accident several years ago, but I could be wrong.

Mike & I did some sketchy route up this thing c. summer 1996? We didn't have any kind of guide; we just tried to climb the best-looking line. We passed some ancient-looking fixed gear at some point, so certainly parts of it had been done before. It was pretty scrubby and probably in the 5.6-range. Maybe Mike knows more....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 26, 2010

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Comments: Some day when you have extra time (and before snow falls) drive the "back way", up North along Shelf Road to Cripple Creek. That's our standard route and we see big horns about 25% of the time. This guy was about 5 minutes north of the Great Black North, right on the road.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Last Frontier (5.10b/c) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 21, 2010

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Comments: On closer inspection, it looks to me like he has a really long tail on his knot (~18"), and that is what we are seeing between his legs. If you look close you will notice a yellow dot which I assume is the rope end, and its clear that this strand is not running through the biner that's clipped to the highest sling. I can't tell where the sharp end of the rope is, but I would guess, considering the sling, that it is running outside his leg.

...and I see plenty of feet.

How's that for too much... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Green Bonus (5.13+)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 21, 2010

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Comments: The information provided above by Mr. Hand is incorrect. The entire Gym cliffline is on BLM land, as well as most of the land north of the gym (to about half-way to the North End). But as they say on Reading Rainbow, don't take my word for it. Go here and enter Schedule Number 3549000000005. CLick on the "Show Parcel Map" button. You will want to zoom in ~4 times, then click the "Aerial Photo" check box (on the left), then pan up to the Gym area.
... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : No Man's Land (5.11b)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 19, 2010

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Comments: I concur with the comments above. I don't really understand how grades are assigned at this crag, but with good beta, this is harder than Carbs & Caffeine, and easier than Yellow Wall, so I guess that makes it "11b".


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End : Aggro Monk (5.13a PG13)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: Due to lack of friction btwn the rope & biner? I think it's doubtful one would fall onto the first bolt, since you can clip the second easily from the horizontal break. Plus the 2nd bolt is close enough that you never really lead above the 1st bolt, and the 1st is ~30' up, so you'd have to pull the belayer that far to hit the ground, which would be hard to do on what amounts to a TR fall. But ya, use your own judgment.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Corner Pockets (5.10c)
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 28, 2010

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Comments: Thanks, Glenn!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Goodro's Wall (5.10c)
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 27, 2010

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Comments: One of the most difficult rappels in the country when it was first done.


Location: NH : Rumney : Venus Wall : Neptune (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 26, 2010

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Comments: Nice work Lee!!


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Mount Royal (near Frisco) : Royal Flush (5.9)
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 22, 2010

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Comments: Administrator's Note:

The discussion regarding fixed protection on Royal Flush has been move here.

Please add any comments on this topic to the above forum thread.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Pike's Peak : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 20, 2010

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Comments: Ha! Yep, this was taken from just off 67, in that flat area N of the junction w/ 64. The aspens out there are off the chain right now!


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Fallen Idol /Face Dancer + ... : Confessions of a Mask (5.12d)
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 9, 2010

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Comments: Sweet vid Brian!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Needles : Pigeon Peak
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: This page is up for adoption. If you would like to write a proper description for this page, please PM me.


Location: CO : New Shelf Road Guide Book A...
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 1, 2010

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Comments: Ben,

This book will have several hundred new routes that have been added since the Sharp End book was published. I haven't seen it, but I'm sure it will be worth the $$ just to avoid dog attacks at Cactus Cliff.


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