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Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.


Member Since: Oct 26, 2006
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 11
Total Points: 15,621
Last Year: 321
Last 30 Days: 0
626 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 5207 | Routes 508 | Areas 131 | Photos 1618 | Page Improvements | Comments 481 | Posts 1660 | Stars 753 | Ratings 56
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Come Home Curly (5.13d)
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: This is one of the more unique routes around, with wild, gymnastic movement and improbable sequences. There are 5 monos, with the crux involving a dyno off a keeper mono to a small but incut mono with poor feet. The mid-section of this route has excellent stone, but the start can be seapy and tends to be a bit sub-par. The upper roof is trivial with good beta, so this is basically a 15-20 move sprint to reach the slab.

The name comes from the opening lines of the John Prine song "Speed of ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: True, Cactus, The Bank, The Gallery & Sand Gulch tend to be crowded, but there are many other crags that go (literally) years without any climber traffic. In my last 20 climbing days at Shelf, I have seen exactly 2 other climbers that were not in my party, and they weren't even at the cliff; we passed them on the approach.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Upper Gorge
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: If you're serious, you might consider contacting Paul Marshall. He's an architect living in Bend. He was Mr. Upper Gorge when I was climbing there in '05. He was talking about moving back East, so he may not be in Bend anymore.

The Upper Gorge is a great crag that deserves more attention.


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Fallen Idol /Face Dancer + ... : Smoke Shapes (5.13d) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: Dude, don't forget to update your profile!


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Busload of Faith (5.14a) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 22, 2011

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Comments: Thanks again for the sweet pics!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Lower La Cueva Canyon : Meadow : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 22, 2011

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Comments: AHHHHHHHH! The Apocolypse is upon us! RUN FOR THE HILLS!!!!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : "Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) (5.11c)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 18, 2011

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Comments: I corresponded with Bob & Carrie, and they confirmed these are their routes, but they either did not name them, or don't remember the names, so suggested that I name them.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : "Tommy" (Unnamed) (5.11c)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 18, 2011

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Comments: I corresponded with Bob & Carrie, and they confirmed these are their routes, but they either did not name them, or don't remember the names, so suggested that I name them.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Apogee Pending (5.14a) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 17, 2011

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Comments: The wall is this steep:

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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 15, 2011

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Comments: Man, the best ones are still projects....


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 9, 2011

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Comments: Here's an alphabetical listing of the routes in The Trapps with sub-area indicated:

??: 5.11b, R k. The Slime Wall
10,000 Restless Virgins: 5.10+, PG l. Sleepy Hollow
48: 5.2, G j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Area) - The Seasons (The Spring)
49: 5.2, G j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Area) - The Seasons (The Spring)
50-50: 5.5, G i. High E
60-40: 5.7, PG i. High E
69: 5.3, G ?a. The Uberfall?... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Grenadiers : Storm King
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 1, 2011

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Comments: The page looks great, Matthias. Thanks for fixing it!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Prestige Worldwide Wall
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 1, 2011

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Comments: Nice crag name! How do you feel about playing pre-1980 Billy Joel covers?


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Mad Cow Wall : Bubbles (5.13b) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 27, 2011

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Comments: No, not at all. I was recovering from a foot injury and wanted to wear something loose & floppy on the left foot. More here if you're interested.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : ... : Mt. Temple
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 10, 2011

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Comments: Thanks a lot John!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Comment : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Jan 26, 2011

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Comments: No, Ian is holding the camera. The fellow on the right is Tim G.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)
By: Monomaniac When: Jan 19, 2011

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Comments: Glad to hear it. That makes sense since the hold in the pic is more of a sidepull than undercling. Did you send yet??


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Wartley's Revenge (5.11a/b)
By: Monomaniac When: Jan 14, 2011

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Comments: Try Shoes of the Fisherman. Same grade, right next door ;)


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Fission aka Ken T'ank (5.12c)
By: Monomaniac When: Jan 13, 2011

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Comments: I think the variation was bolted by Scott Hahn. I don't know if he sent it or not. He has an account here, so someone can PM him to find out....


Location: International : Europe : Switzerland
By: Monomaniac When: Jan 12, 2011

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Comments: David,

The database is built by the users. The Eiger is not in the database, because none of our users have climbed it, (or if they have, they haven't bothered to submit it). Perhaps once you do it you can add it to the database! In the mean time, this is about the the closest thing we've got. Hope its enough to get your palms sweaty.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 28, 2010

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Comments: If you like that, check out "3:10 to Yuma" with Russel Crowe & Christian Bale. There's a 10-minute sequence involving the Tunnels, plus many more NM areas such as Diablo Canyon....


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : ... : Greenwood-Locke (5.8 A2 Steep Snow R)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 28, 2010

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Comments: I've listed the historic grade of "5.8 A2" to provide a comparison to other routes of the era, however, we were able to climb it free at ~5.10+. I believe most modern summer ascents are done in similar fashion.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Taylor's Corner Area : The Drop Zone (5.11- R)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 16, 2010

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Comments: Awesome description Colby! Can you post "Jeff's picture" that you refer to in the description?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 14, 2010

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Comments: Not too many underclings on this, so I assume its the same one Tim ripped off & glued back on (clipping hold for bolt #6).

Right hand in this pic?


Undercling?
Undercling?



Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Gym Arete Direct (5.12c) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 6, 2010

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Comments: :) I get 2 haircuts/year. Clearly this was taken very soon after one of those haircuts.


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