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Pulling a small roof at 2/3 height on Mission Impossible.  Adam Sanders photo.


Member Since: Oct 26, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 10
Total Points: 15,508
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All (5153) | Routes (504) | Areas (131) | Photos (1604) | Comments (478) | Posts (1631) | Stars (749) | Ratings (56)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : HyperNova (5.12-)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: The climbing through the roof is all-time, ultra classic. Unfortunately the crux is the unsettling slab above the roof. The rock on the slab is flawless, but the climbing just isn't very fun. Definitely worth it just to climb the roof though.

You need at least a 60m rope to descend, and even that requires extreme caution.


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Nirvana (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: There's also a pretty thin mono move on the clean section of rock between the long diagonal and the juggy headwall. I thought that was the crux, if there is one. This is one of those classic continuous lines that is basically crux-less. Would be a great choice for a first 5.13.


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Samsara (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: IMO, the best route in the tall/juggy part of the Killer Cave.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Full Retard (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: Obviously, you're not a golfer.

I think if you understand the context, the name is not offensive. If you do understand the context and you're still offended, then I apologize for offending you, but I recommend that in the future, you avoid the internet.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Great Black North : Where Paradise Ain't So Cro... (5.14a)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: Thanks to Darryl Roth & Dan Durland for the vision and hardware for this line. Apparently Roth spied the line and drilled the bolt holes, and Dan sunk in the hardware, eventually one-hanging the route before moving on to other projects. I attempted this in the Fall of 2010, managing only to break a key hold just above the lip of the roof. I came back last month and was able to suss another sequence after literally 2 hours of putzing around at the second bolt.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Full Retard (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: I realized during the FA that the current anchor situation is lame. Next time I'm out there with a drill I plan to install a proper anchor.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 4, 2011

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Comments: Talk to the Canadian Matt, he's the one with the chisel.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : The Cirque : Proper Soul (5.14a)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 3, 2011

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Comments: Great description Fred! Got my palms all sweaty just reading it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - East Face : The Persian Room (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 3, 2011

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Comments: It looks more like a "whispering eye" to me, but YMMV.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : ... : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 1, 2011

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Comments: Thanks, Ben!

I think something in this pic might be photoshopped:

Hard to believe it's been 15 years since this pic was taken....
Hard to believe it's been 15 years since this pic was taken....



Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Grand Ol' Opry (5.14c)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 31, 2011

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Comments: Logan was at Day Care on Friday fortunately. It would have been a real bitch trying to bring him in through the snow.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Pinche Wey (5.12c)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: If only there were a grade between 12c and 13a ;)


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: Glad to hear you're back on the rock!

It seems that the GBN, North Gym, & Damage Wall are safe for "fixed" draws. I wouldn't leave draws anywhere else. Good luck and let me know how it goes.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wasteland : Espresso (5.12c) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 11, 2011

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Comments: He probably mis-placed his pad while high. It took more than 10 minutes just to find a picture with his feet on the rock. I never did find one with his shirt on. :)


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wasteland : Espresso (5.12c) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 11, 2011

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Comments:
Benjamin Chapman wrote:
Just another case of "Jessery." Doesn't the rubberized knee pad/knee bar constitute aid? If you're trying to climb the hardest grade you can why make it easier by resorting to aid. You don't see Chris Sharma, Ramon Julian, or Adam Ondra utilizing knee bars!!


Chris Sharma on Humildes pa Casa.
Chris Sharma on Humildes pa Casa.


Adam Ondra.
Adam Ondra.



Location: WY : Wild Iris : Gun Street : The Aspen Glade : Californios (5.11c)
By: Monomaniac When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: I just checked Steve's book and he lists Joe Desimone (of Face Dancer fame, among others). I think I had this confused with Mutt Ridin Monkey, which shares the same anchor. Steve lists the FA for that route as "unknown".


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: Monomaniac When: Jun 9, 2011

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Comments: Rifle has re-opened!


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : New Elevenmile Guidebook
By: Monomaniac When: May 28, 2011

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Comments: Awesome work, Ben! With your dedication to the area, I'm sure it will be a kick ass book. Can't wait to see it!


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Lyme Cryme (5.10d)
By: Monomaniac When: May 5, 2011

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Comments: According to his fine autobiagrophy, Revalations, a young Jerry Moffat nearly met his demise on this route when he failed to properly anchor himself to the tree at the top of the cliff. One of his followers fell and pulled him from the ledge. Luckily they were both caught by one of the ancient pitons placed on the FA, after a fall of 50 feet!


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Endeavor to Persevere (5.13c)
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 25, 2011

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Comments: Hmm, I think you might have some bad beta ;)


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Bagdhad (5.13-)
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: Note that its 12c in the current Bechtel guide. Freakin' Lander locals! Expect 12b in the new edition ;)


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : One Love (5.13c)
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: This one has only three monos, and though the mono moves are not the hardest moves, they are the most likely to shut you down. The true redpoint crux is pulling through the high roof--the "12+" rating for this section (shown in the Collins/White guide) is a sandbag IMO.


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Come Home Curly (5.13d)
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: This is one of the more unique routes around, with wild, gymnastic movement and improbable sequences. There are 5 monos, with the crux involving a dyno off a keeper mono to a small but incut mono with poor feet. The mid-section of this route has excellent stone, but the start can be seapy and tends to be a bit sub-par. The upper roof is trivial with good beta, so this is basically a 15-20 move sprint to reach the slab.

The name comes from the opening lines of the John Prine song "Speed of ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: True, Cactus, The Bank, The Gallery & Sand Gulch tend to be crowded, but there are many other crags that go (literally) years without any climber traffic. In my last 20 climbing days at Shelf, I have seen exactly 2 other climbers that were not in my party, and they weren't even at the cliff; we passed them on the approach.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Upper Gorge
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: If you're serious, you might consider contacting Paul Marshall. He's an architect living in Bend. He was Mr. Upper Gorge when I was climbing there in '05. He was talking about moving back East, so he may not be in Bend anymore.

The Upper Gorge is a great crag that deserves more attention.


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