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Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.


Member Since: Oct 26, 2006
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Total Points: 17,268
Last Year: 1,653
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 5570 | Routes 562 | Areas 140 | Photos 1811 | Page Improvements | Comments 488 | Posts 1685 | Stars 824 | Ratings 60
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte
By: Monomaniac When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: The new guidebook is absolutely sick! Tons of inspiring photos and lots of new stuff I didn't know about; it's provided lots of great reading (even my wife, who never looks at guidebooks, has enjoyed leafing through it). An amazing effort by Jason & Co. It ships really fast too, I think I got mine the day after I ordered it. I'm sure if you order today you'll have yours in time for Memorial Day Weekend. With the recent lifting of much of the Cathedral Spires closure, the timing co... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments: I'm a sucker for lists. Its been a long time since I climbed here, so I'm not too sure on the order and I couldn't come up with 10, but here are some climbs that stick in my mind as routes that would be classics at any crag:

Where the Wild Things Aren't
Clovis Hunter
Cock-a-Doodle-Do
Grape Ape
Mastadont
Pale Face
Unnamed Arete (Left of Tweak Fuck)
Schmeming
Good (more memorable than good!)


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut (5.11c)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 12, 2012

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Comments:
Jay Samuelson wrote:
The bolt in the roof on this climb is in pretty bad condition


Considering there is a bolt 2 feet below this bolt and another 2 feet above, it hardly seems worth worrying about.

YYYYEEEEHHHAAAA!!!!!
YYYYEEEEHHHAAAA!!!!!



Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Tam O'Shanter : The Burn Zone : The Red Wall : Masterbiner (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: Nice vid gents. Looks like a sweet line.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (zz) Upper Gorge
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 3, 2012

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Comments: Its called "Smith Rock".


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Apogee Pending (5.14a)
By: Monomaniac When: Jan 14, 2012

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Comments: Beanie is correct.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Tiger's Woody (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 14, 2011

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Comments: Yes, and nice name too!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : The Unaweeper (5.13c)
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 1, 2011

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Comments: Nice work, Piz, looks rad!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal ... : Soul Crusher (5.13b) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 30, 2011

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Comments: I can't figure out how anyone could possibly tell!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Great Black North : The Magus (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 25, 2011

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Comments: The movement & position on this line are totally rad. Easily the most exposed route at Shelf. It's too bad the first half of the bulge is rather chossy.

I didn't find the opening slab to be dirty, but it was somewhat spooky with a lot of loose-looking rock (though nothing broke on me).


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Spitting Image (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: I did not prep this line. There was a faded piece of cord tied to the first bolt, so I assume my ascent is the first. If not, please correct me. Whoever bolted this line had a great vision; it's one of the best routes I've done at Shelf.

"Red" Tag?
"Red" Tag?


Considering the state of the cord, I figured the route was fair game.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : HyperNova (5.12-)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: The climbing through the roof is all-time, ultra classic. Unfortunately the crux is the unsettling slab above the roof. The rock on the slab is flawless, but the climbing just isn't very fun. Definitely worth it just to climb the roof though.

You need at least a 60m rope to descend, and even that requires extreme caution.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Nirvana (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: There's also a pretty thin mono move on the clean section of rock between the long diagonal and the juggy headwall. I thought that was the crux, if there is one. This is one of those classic continuous lines that is basically crux-less. Would be a great choice for a first 5.13.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Samsara (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: IMO, the best route in the tall/juggy part of the Killer Cave.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Full Retard (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: Obviously, you're not a golfer.

I think if you understand the context, the name is not offensive. If you do understand the context and you're still offended, then I apologize for offending you, but I recommend that in the future, you avoid the internet.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Great Black North : Where Paradise Ain't So Cro... (5.14a)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: Thanks to Darryl Roth & Dan Durland for the vision and hardware for this line. Apparently Roth spied the line and drilled the bolt holes, and Dan sunk in the hardware, eventually one-hanging the route before moving on to other projects. I attempted this in the Fall of 2010, managing only to break a key hold just above the lip of the roof. I came back last month and was able to suss another sequence after literally 2 hours of putzing around at the second bolt.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Full Retard (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: I realized during the FA that the current anchor situation is lame. Next time I'm out there with a drill I plan to install a proper anchor.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 4, 2011

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Comments: Talk to the Canadian Matt, he's the one with the chisel.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - East Face : The Persian Room (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 3, 2011

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Comments: It looks more like a "whispering eye" to me, but YMMV.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : ... : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 1, 2011

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Comments: Thanks, Ben!

I think something in this pic might be photoshopped:

Hard to believe it's been 15 years since this pic ...
Hard to believe it's been 15 years since this pic was taken....



Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Grand Ol' Opry (5.14c)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 31, 2011

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Comments: Logan was at Day Care on Friday fortunately. It would have been a real bitch trying to bring him in through the snow.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Pinche Wey (5.12d)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: If only there were a grade between 12c and 13a ;)


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: Glad to hear you're back on the rock!

It seems that the GBN, North Gym, & Damage Wall are safe for "fixed" draws. I wouldn't leave draws anywhere else. Good luck and let me know how it goes.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wasteland : Espresso (5.12c) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 11, 2011

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Comments: He probably mis-placed his pad while high. It took more than 10 minutes just to find a picture with his feet on the rock. I never did find one with his shirt on. :)


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wasteland : Espresso (5.12c) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 11, 2011

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Comments:
Benjamin Chapman wrote:
Just another case of "Jessery." Doesn't the rubberized knee pad/knee bar constitute aid? If you're trying to climb the hardest grade you can why make it easier by resorting to aid. You don't see Chris Sharma, Ramon Julian, or Adam Ondra utilizing knee bars!!


Chris Sharma on Humildes pa Casa.
Chris Sharma on Humildes pa Casa.


Adam Ondra.
Adam Ondra.



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