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Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.


Member Since: Oct 26, 2006
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Total Points: 17,131
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 5534 | Routes 558 | Areas 140 | Photos 1792 | Page Improvements | Comments 486 | Posts 1681 | Stars 818 | Ratings 59
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Lou Reed (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: 1 day ago

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Comments: This is a great find--gymnastic moves on good rock in a beautiful setting. Thanks to Richard for the vision and for opening it up. The crux for me was a footless drive-by move to a really good incut edge at the lip of the big bulge--very cool.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag
By: Monomaniac When: 1 day ago

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Comments: This is a worthy crag that offers some relief from the summer heat. It's only about 15 minutes further from Denver than the west end of Clear Creek, and it's easily 10 degrees cooler than those crags. The left side stays shady till ~10am, and the right side until 1pm. Short approach and beautiful setting. Kudos to Harald and Richard!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Siberian Express (5.14c)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: I sent this on March 6, 2015. Thanks to Scott for the vision and sweat to create this line. If you like pure power endurance, this is the route for you. If my ascent is the first, then I propose the name "Siberian Express". Self indulgent, tedious details can be found here.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Double Stout (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: I sent the full Double Stout on Friday (January 23rd). Details here.

Many thanks to Darren for envisioning the line, equipping it, and opening it up. It's a fantastic addition to Clear Creek, definitely one of the better hard routes in the canyon.


Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Krottenseer Turm : Chasin the Trane (5.12d)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: An old-school grade for an old-school route. This would easily merit .13a at any modern day vacation crag.


Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Weißenstein : Dampfhammer (5.11+)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: This could be 12a. I never really figured out the non-linear UIAA-to-YDS conversion. I wanted to give it 11d/12a but the database wouldn't allow that. It's UIAA 8, if you can figure out what that means in YDS, good for you!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Prowler (5.14a)
By: Monomaniac When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: Fine with me. I believe the draws fixed now belong to Jason Baker, so you might want to run it by him.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Prowler (5.14a)
By: Monomaniac When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: Many thanks to Jason Baker for discovering and equipping this line. Thanks for graciously sharing it with me, it's destined to become a Clear Creek classic!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : I Don’t Know What It’s Call... (5.14b)
By: Monomaniac When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: Many thanks to Luke Childers for discovering and equipping this line. Thanks, Luke!

Edit to add: details on RCTM.com


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Flight of the Phoenix (5.14a/b)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: In the year or so since I did this, I've had the chance to travel around a bit and try some other routes of similar style and difficulty. Based on those routes, I'm beginning to think this is more like .14b. Time will tell, but for now I've changed the grade here to .14a/b.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Impossible (5.14c) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Jay, and thanks again for bolting it! Probably my 2nd favorite route in Clear Creek, after Mission Overdrive. The heinous sharpness of the upper crux detracts slightly, but otherwise it's a classic line.


Location: AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : Stikine Ice Cap : Devil's Thumb : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments:
Benjamin Chapman wrote:
Is Krakauer's name in there somewhere?


Between two registers, we found a name for every ascent we were aware of, except that one.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Scene of the Crime (5.12c/d) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Surely a crime against fashion! (the mullet, that is. Those shorts are TNT).


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Overdrive (5.14a/b)
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: In my view, this is a substantial improvement on Interstellar Overdrive. I don't know what it is about Clear Creek, but the linkups are often better than the "straight up" lines! Anyway, an outstanding route, thanks for the vision and hardware, Jay!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Flight of the Phoenix (5.14a/b)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 27, 2013

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Comments: I put together a short video of the climb. Check it out here.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Flight of the Phoenix (5.14a/b)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: For me, this is by far the hardest route at Shelf. This took me significantly longer to climb than any other Shelf route. That said, I'm not very good at this type of climbing. Shelf's other .14s suit me much better. I wouldn't be surprised if a strong boulderer found this to be easier than the relatively pumpy Apogee Pending or the highly technical 'Paradise'. I also wouldn't be surprised if future climbers decide this is sandbagged. This is one of those weird routes like Dumpste... more >>


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector D'or et Bleu : Sky Pilot (5.13c/d)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 4, 2012

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Comments: I can't think of a better word than "brilliant" to describe this line. On par with any of the best hard sport routes in America.

Since I'm bored at work, one small nitpick for the sake of preserving history: Although I'm sure there is no official definition, I don't think the cross move qualifies as a 'full on rose move'. "Rose Move" comes from the classic Buoux route "La Rose et Le Vampire". Here is what a Rose Move looks like:

THE original "Rose Move"
THE original "Rose Move"


I suppose its possible that a really short... more >>


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : The B.F.G. (5.13)
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: Sounds like a cool line and a worthwhile addition. Pics??


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sport Rock
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: Hey Richard, it sounds like this crag is in Jefferson County. Have you tried using the JeffCO Assessor's ASPIN Map tool to determine ownership? Check it out here.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Uplift Mofo Party Plan (5.11b)
By: Monomaniac When: Aug 30, 2012

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Comments: Is UMP Plan B something you buy at the Pharmacy the morning after Special Secret Song Inside happens?


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Uplift Mofo Party Plan (5.11b)
By: Monomaniac When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: No, its named after the other Uplift Mofo Party Plan ;)


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : The Urban Alpine Crag
By: Monomaniac When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Nice addition, Lee/Mike/Mike et. al.! I've driven/ridden by this cliff countless times and thought it would make for a nice little crag.

Watch out for road bikes on the approach!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Northcutt-Carter (5.7)
By: Monomaniac When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: Julius,

I think your critique is fair. I've enjoyed climbing the routes on that list as much as anyone, but to be fair, many of the selections have not withstood the test of time. But to answer your question, I believe the route was included in 50 Classics because of its "historical significance". Northcutt declared it the hardest in CO, and perhaps the hardest route in America when he did the FA in 1956. Chouinard & Ken Weeks casually fired it in half a day for the 2d ascent. Needles to s... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte
By: Monomaniac When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: The new guidebook is absolutely sick! Tons of inspiring photos and lots of new stuff I didn't know about; it's provided lots of great reading (even my wife, who never looks at guidebooks, has enjoyed leafing through it). An amazing effort by Jason & Co. It ships really fast too, I think I got mine the day after I ordered it. I'm sure if you order today you'll have yours in time for Memorial Day Weekend. With the recent lifting of much of the Cathedral Spires closure, the timing co... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments: I'm a sucker for lists. Its been a long time since I climbed here, so I'm not too sure on the order and I couldn't come up with 10, but here are some climbs that stick in my mind as routes that would be classics at any crag:

Where the Wild Things Aren't
Clovis Hunter
Cock-a-Doodle-Do
Grape Ape
Mastadont
Pale Face
Unnamed Arete (Left of Tweak Fuck)
Schmeming
Good (more memorable than good!)


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