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Member Since: Jan 29, 2009
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact MojoMonkey


Point Rank: # 5,401
Total Points: 60
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has MojoMonkey been climbing?










Contributions


All (346) | Routes (3) | Areas | Photos (2) | Comments (20) | Posts (122) | Stars (199) | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)
By: MojoMonkey When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: It's been a little over a year - anyone know if the bolt status is the same? Pulled out? Replaced? Sounds like there is no reasonable gear options for a while if the previous poster indicates it as R climbing...


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Orange Oswald Wall : Orange Oswald (5.10a)
By: MojoMonkey When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the effort!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Orange Oswald Wall : Orange Oswald (5.10a)
By: MojoMonkey When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: Looks like hurricane Sandy knocked out a tree above this route. It was hanging over the cliff top and easily avoided to finish the route. Its roots are still hanging so it was sturdy enough that you aren't going to knock it off at the moment, but who knows how long that will last.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv...
By: MojoMonkey When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: Are Whippoorwill and Pirate's Cove currently climbable? I thought they were usually accessible sometime in October, but have seen elsewhere that the water level for Summersville should be below 1600 here: www.lrh-wc.usace.army.mil/wc/whitewater.html It is currently at 1615. Higher than normal from Sandy and recent rain, or good to go?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Yum Yum Yab Yum (5.4)
By: MojoMonkey When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: I'd imagine any rappel setup above Eenie Meenie would be removed since that climb is part of the closed portion of the Nears.


Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry : i. Giant Wall (Long Slabs) : Virgin Suicides (5.9+)
By: MojoMonkey When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: As an update to my last comment, either I was less observant last time or rock is flaking off from behind the hangers. There were more bolts with 1/4" or so of bolt exposed behind the hanger. 4-6? I didn't count.

And regarding Larry's comment on the four anchor bolts, the leftmost one is maybe 2" from an abandoned drill hole. Given the rock quality and that bolt spacing guidelines I've seen are 10x bolt diameter or 2x hole depth, I wouldn't recommend anybody running the climb as one long pi... more >>


Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry : l. Lower Climbs (Reservoir ... : Mighty Midget (5.8)
By: MojoMonkey When: Jul 12, 2012

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Comments: Missing how? The hanger was removed but bolt still there? Bolt chopped? Chunk of rock with the bolt fell out?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Wallface
By: MojoMonkey When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Weather- and bug-wise, when is prime season for Wallface?


Location: NY : The Gunks
By: MojoMonkey When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: Last year's closure was lifted June 11.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: MojoMonkey When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: I believe you mean Near Trapps for the central portion of this photo. The Trapps would be off to the right and is not visible.


Location: PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector : Urban Daydreams (5.10d)
By: MojoMonkey When: Dec 6, 2011

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Comments: I could be wrong - my info was based on the old Rock & Ice guide. It showed Static Cling to the climber's right of Urban Daydreams, sharing the start of Autumn Arch but heading up the face instead of following the corner.


Location: PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : j. Hydroman Sector : Hydroman (5.11a/b)
By: MojoMonkey When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Little pockets, sometimes sharp, and just enough holds for fun, thoughtful climbing. Left-hand pocket used to get to the not-as-good-as-you'd-like horizontal near the top had a piece break off on Sunday. Was a little wet/dirty inside, and somewhat sharp, but usable. Crux was right at the top for us. My partner worked up the arete to the right and had a tricky step left to get to the anchors. I stayed in the corner, eventually getting a hand out/up left, then a heel to get settled. I then c... more >>


Location: PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector : Wonderama (5.12b)
By: MojoMonkey When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: The striking arete right of the large Autumn Arch corner. There were a couple of decent rest spots to shake the pump out of your right arm - that is getting most of the workout on this overhanging arete.


Location: PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector : Urban Daydreams (5.10d)
By: MojoMonkey When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: About 20 feet left of the obvious corner of Autumn Arch. Blocky start to get established on the slabby face. Based on the streaks, it looks like the face stays wet longer than other sections. Fun, delicate climbing; a little grungy in some spots but not bad.

It was wet at the top on Sunday but the left-hand pocket was still pretty good and there was a dry nub for a left foot to feel just secure enough to get to the anchors.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Whippoorwill
By: MojoMonkey When: Nov 15, 2011

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Comments: Anyone familiar with Don Miron? The long reach just above the little roof seemed hard for the grade. Anyone want to privately send me the sequence through there? I was sort of hoping that a foothold had broken off that made it harder - there was a little section of broken rock that may have been a right foot but I have no idea if that was before or after the route was graded. I may not ever make it back out there but am curious how it goes.


Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry
By: MojoMonkey When: Nov 15, 2011

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Comments: I think the accident you heard of was not a broken bolt, but a broken carabiner. The bolt end carabiner of the draw broke and looked like the nose-hooked failures shown here.


Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry : b. Orange Sunshine Wall : Gym Dandy (5.11c)
By: MojoMonkey When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Harder if short, I imagine. The crux is the start, a couple crimpy moves to the good holds by the bolt. At 6', it was two moves for me and I'm not sure they felt 5.11c. The rest of the climbing is easier 10.


Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry : i. Giant Wall (Long Slabs) : Virgin Suicides (5.9+)
By: MojoMonkey When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: A nice option on these colder, but sunny days. The climbing is fun - requiring technique/balance over strength. I would have given it 3 stars, but even after a few years the rock is still crumbling. As long as you are aware of it going in, it is a good time. Nice and long, I went all the way to the top in one shot (which was 15 draws, I believe - including clipping one bolt on the first anchor but not the top anchor).

On one of the earlier bolts the rock looks to have fractured as it was be... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Apoplexy (5.9) : Photo
By: MojoMonkey When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: Wonderful photo!


Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry : d. Zorro Face : Zorro (5.12a)
By: MojoMonkey When: Apr 21, 2009

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Comments: Anyone want to describe this line? I started to the lower left of the face in a corner and then moved right to the face around to get to the first bolt. From there I stuck to the face, even though the arete or cracks near it were within reach. Instead I stuck to the thin, horizontal cracks/features on the mostly blank face.