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Member Since: Nov 11, 2010
Last Visit: Jan 8, 2014
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Point Rank: # 1,760
Total Points: 347
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 132 | Routes 23 | Areas 5 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 42 | Posts 36 | Stars 23 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : Why Me? (5.10+)
By: mnatti When: Sep 14, 2013

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Comments: I have done it on TR ages ago. Crux seemed right off the ledge? I'd say hard 5.10 but would be called a sandbagger. Herb Stilman used to solo this back in the day but he is part velcro!


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Mount Jacob Boulders : The Cemetery : Hell-Bent (V6)
By: mnatti When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: This was originally entered as a separate route, but the information is moved here as a comment:

This is a classic one move wonder. No quibbling about holds.... there is one good crimp for your right hand and a diagonal slab for your feet. Sit down (the top is only 5' off the ground), grab crimp, pull, slap the top (no dab), and mantle the bald top. V6 seems right, but with the grading on this island, who knows (could be a V4 or a V7!)?

Its location is across from Early Buzz in the Al... more >>


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Dyke's Pond (Gloucester) : The Garden : The Squeeze Problem (V5)
By: mnatti When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: That is a Cape Ann V5, kids. If you're hot from the gym and looking to crush a local 5... this ain't it! Welcome to sandbag central.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Cavalry Boulder Field aka G... : Cavalry Boulder
By: mnatti When: Mar 3, 2013

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Comments: I had a good play on this line the other day, felt V3ish, but it could be 4? I'd say Cape Ann 5.11 if it was billed as a rope climb. I added a new bolt for the TR set-up, so it is a) closer to the actual arete and b) at least one of the bolts up there is now shiny again. The arete/ slab at your back from this line is sweet too, 5.8 with arete and 5.10 if you eliminate the edge and just use the little face holds. I have often thought about bolting a few of the lines on the Cavalry due to the ... more >>


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Cavalry Boulder Field aka G... : Cavalry Boulder
By: mnatti When: Feb 28, 2013

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Comments: I saw the chalk on that the other day and it reminded me that I have yet to do that line clean (haven't even tried it in years!). Seems to me like it is a nasty landing to do as a proper boulder problem with that ledge at 1/3rd height. I'll consult some of the old ninjas and see if if all those TR lines up there have names.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Thomas St. Reservation : Eagle Rock Crag
By: mnatti When: Jan 12, 2013

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Comments: This dome is called Eagle Rock by the Essex County Greenbelt and a great map of the reserve is availible to download free on their website. ecga.org/explore_and_engage/vi...


Location: MA : Cape Ann
By: mnatti When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: The top anchors in question were put in by me and get mostly used by project adventure, but there are a number of short, fun lines there for folks climbing 5.5 - 5.8. The best access is parking by the Plum Cove beachball field (resident sticker required) and hiking up the trail. The bouldering in Dogtown is amazing but involves quite a bit of walking, and unless you are very familiar with the trails, it is hard to say where the best blocks are. A Dogtown map is availible (The Gloucester Book ... more >>


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Sunshine Wall : Blind Faith (5.7)
By: mnatti When: May 12, 2012

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Comments: Bring long slings for the TR set up on this. There is a pair of healthy trees about 10' back from the top.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Bray St. Mini-Crag
By: mnatti When: May 10, 2012

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Comments: The Essex County Greenbelt just added a fantastic parking area just to the left of this little cliff, which provides great access to the Thompson St. Woods. If you are up for exploring a bit, there are loads of good boulders and slabs hidden in the woods back there, though bug spray, a scrub brush, and a sense of adventure are recommended!


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : Hole in One (5.10 V3)
By: mnatti When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: This route is not to be tried to many times in a row or you will not have any rubber left on your toes! A stick clip or spotter is a good idea.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : Down Under (5.8)
By: mnatti When: Mar 3, 2012

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Comments: A Doug Millen/ Herb Stillman line. Doug did the original version (5.8) of this route with a single bolt at half height, using the left arete to pull up to the central clipping jug. Herb did the same line... without using the arete at all. Herb says the direct slab line up goes at 5.10, though I feel a 5.11(+) is not a stretch at all!


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : The Least Of The Deceased (5.10-)
By: mnatti When: Mar 3, 2012

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Comments: The story goes that Doug Millen claimed that he had put in a bolt and bagged first ascent of this line. He told Herb about it, Herb went to climb and climbed it, ground up, but saw no bolt. The next day, when he returned... the bolt was there. One of the two of them got the first ascent... but only the rock knows for sure!


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Sunshine Wall : Kimchi (5.10b/c)
By: mnatti When: Feb 27, 2012

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Comments: Kimchi. Cape Ann 5.8+, so a Rumney 5.10(ish?). This line starts on a beautiful, hand gobbling flake and traverses left of an amazing, juggy rail. The wall is well overhung and the moves are straightforward but sustained with a sweet rock over to finish up onto the slab above. I installed 3 bolts (plus 2 on top) on this line, and after leading it, I have to say that this line alone makes the walk out to this cliff worth it. As a TR, expect a bit of a swing, but the lead is all there and tota... more >>


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Oz : Commander Salamander Crack (5.6)
By: mnatti When: Feb 14, 2012

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Comments: There are two lines here... both done by (no shock) Herb Stilman. The wall is called the Commander Salamander Wall. The line on the right is called Commander Salamander Crack, 5.6, and to the left is the Commander Salamander Slab, 5.10.


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : Andromeda (5.11 PG13)
By: mnatti When: Feb 13, 2012

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Comments: This line (not really a variation at all) was lead on-sight by Herb, who stretched out right as far as he could (while balancing on the non-existent smears) to stuff gear into the Zipper flake as he went up.


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : The Plank (5.8+)
By: mnatti When: Feb 13, 2012

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Comments: This variation is called "The Plank" (as in, walk the...). The old school, unwritten rule for leading it is that you cannot place gear higher than your feet as you begin the traverse on the dishes (so, about 6 feet below the start of the thin corner), and then you can continue with gear in the LG crack. I suppose this was to keep the lead as spicy as the rum they were drinking while they were climbing it!


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : Morning Glory (5.8+)
By: mnatti When: Feb 13, 2012

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Comments: History lesson - this line was originally done by Henry Barber (the bottom two bolts were already there, though still not sure who placed them). The original line stays left of the middle bolt and exits as for Zits. This goes at (Cape Ann) 5.8+ (according to the old version of BR, the new one removes a bit of weight from the sandbag. Zits was originally a graded 5.7). The third bolt was added in the late '90s to protect the 5.10(+?) version of the line, which stays right of all the bolts, go... more >>


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Dyke's Pond (Gloucester) : The Garden : Unknown 2 (V0)
By: mnatti When: Jan 18, 2012

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Comments: This has a real funky sit start as well, which ups the grade to V4 or V5? Start right hand on the arete and left foot smearing left by the tree. Slap hands up the arete until you can stand and finish up the line.


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : High Me (5.7 R)
By: mnatti When: Jan 12, 2012

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Comments: The slab start is about a 5.9 I believe, protected with a pad. The ramp keeps the grade solid and is definitely well protected. As for the top.... the anchors were added for TR but makes for a spicy "pg-13"/ "r" slab finish with out changing the grade (much). Does that top move want a bolt to protect from a rolled ankle? I didn't feel it to be a "must" but perhaps for the grade it should be considered. Talk amongst yourselves. The Bosch will stay dormant for now.


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : Photo
By: mnatti When: Dec 28, 2011

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Comments: I believe the bolts were an aid line traverse. The crack is an AWESOME boulder problem. There is loads of good stuff in that area, but it certainly needs a bit more trail definition to get in to it.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : No Pro (5.10- R)
By: mnatti When: Dec 28, 2011

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Comments: "No Pro" it is. "Balls of Confusion" is the wide crack just to the right.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : Splitter (5.9-)
By: mnatti When: Dec 28, 2011

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Comments: Okay... so Herb says this line is called "Splitter." Ball's of Confusion is the wide crack just right of "No Pro" (which you got the name right on). I'm going to try to get Herb down there for a full walk around in the next few days. I'll need a tape recorder for sure!


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : No Pro (5.10- R)
By: mnatti When: Dec 23, 2011

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Comments: By the way.... I was of the opinion that the wide crack is actually "No Pro," not the face next to it. The crack is flaring and really takes no pro.... hence the name? Where is Herb when you need him!?!


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : No Pro (5.10- R)
By: mnatti When: Dec 23, 2011

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Comments: I scrubbed that whole face 8 years ago. It's amazing how quick things get green again. I have an email into the admin for the site to try and consolidate Cape Ann as well as getting Red Rocks area sorted out. Here's to trying!


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Dorset St. Crag (Langsford ...
By: mnatti When: Dec 19, 2011

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Comments: This crag is lonely. It wants to be loved. Come play and keep the green away!


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