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 ADVANCED
8-21-09


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact M.Morley


Point Rank: # 52
Total Points: 7,006
Last Year: 24
Last 30 Days: 0
570 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has M.Morley been climbing?










Contributions


All 3112 | Routes 162 | Areas 121 | Photos 599 | Page Improvements | Comments 576 | Posts 426 | Stars 1124 | Ratings 104
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Worthwhile Rock : Worthwhile Pile (5.7)
By: M.Morley When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: How does this compare with classics like Boulder Crack????


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Chips Ahoy (5.12d)
By: M.Morley When: Apr 12, 2010

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Comments: Phil Requist on Chips Ahoy (12d) at the Owl Tor, Santa Maria.




Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Auto Magic (5.12a)
By: M.Morley When: Apr 12, 2010

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Comments: Andy Patterson redpointing Auto Magic (5.12a) at Owl Tor, Santa Maria, CA on November 15, 2008.




Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area
By: M.Morley When: Apr 7, 2010

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Comments: Great video -- thanks for sharing it, Adam.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Lunatic Fringe (5.10c) : Photo
By: M.Morley When: Feb 12, 2010

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Comments: Thanks, Rob. Probably got at least a few good years left!


Location: CO : Kelly Cordes Needs Our Help
By: M.Morley When: Feb 8, 2010

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Comments: Looks like you could use one of these...STAT!




Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Mounds : Deep Throat (5.9)
By: M.Morley When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: Per Craig Parsley via email:

"You note that legend has it that Tobin named the route Deep Throat. This is fact. He did so upon exiting the hole in the face, crying out, "I think we should call this Deep Throat." I was on the first with he and others. May he RIP.

Another fascinating factoid about Tobin is that whenever he was scared he would sing the Cat Stevens song, "Miles From Nowhere."


Location: Marc H : South Buttress Right of Mt ... : Photo
By: M.Morley When: Feb 3, 2010

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Comments: Gotta love the approach!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Photo
By: M.Morley When: Jan 29, 2010

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Comments: Great shot!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Planet X Area : Planet X Pinnacle : Inept Tune (5.10b)
By: M.Morley When: Jan 25, 2010

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Comments: That'd be 'Planet Z' (5.10d), Adam.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : The Swift (5.7)
By: M.Morley When: Jan 2, 2010

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Comments: Best climbed as 2 full-length pitches.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress
By: M.Morley When: Dec 27, 2009

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Comments: The Fortress makes the ORG and Echo look like the Bachar-Yerian.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress
By: M.Morley When: Dec 24, 2009

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Comments: Climbed here yesterday (12/23/09) for the first time and my partner and I both had fun. The views of Pine Mountain and the Sespe wilderness from the little summit blocks were spectacular, and we had the place to ourselves. Thanks Matthew and Romain for the time, money, and effort that went into development. PIH is the real standout route.

The one detractor I would like to comment on is the excessive bolting. There are routes in which the leader can literally clip 3 bolts from a single stance (... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Central Gully : Spontaneous Order (5.10a PG13)
By: M.Morley When: Dec 24, 2009

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Comments: Describing this as a 4 pitch route is inaccurate and misleading. It is nowhere near 350 feet long, as stated in the description above. From the top of "Footprints" (which is 3rd class terrain), Spontaneous Order is easily climbed in two 100' pitches with no rope drag (this is how we did it), and could very likely be done in a single 200' pitch. With the exception of one 5.8 crux move near the top, I found no climbing harder than 5.6 on the entire route.

More discussion at New routing at "The Fortress" (Ventura).


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Free to Choose (5.8+)
By: M.Morley When: Dec 24, 2009

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Comments: Can easily be climbed in a single, 140' pitch with no rope drag. The first 60' of climbing is no harder than about 5.0, but the last 80' is good. The bolting is excessive in my opinion.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Permanent Income Hypothesis (5.9)
By: M.Morley When: Dec 24, 2009

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Comments: Length, exposure, and relatively good rock make PIH a standout route at The Fortress. I agree with the poster above that the route would be better with half the number of bolts.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : * Bishop Peak Bouldering : Chlorissa
By: M.Morley When: Dec 22, 2009

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Comments: One of the single most accessible, high quality boulders along the Central Coast!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Le Fissure King (V3)
By: M.Morley When: Dec 19, 2009

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Comments: Per Edwards' guide, Le Fissure King is V0, not V3. "Bullet the Chisel Profits" is V3. Recommended.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b) : Photo
By: M.Morley When: Oct 9, 2009

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Comments: Excellent topo, Russ. Thanks!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Leaning Tower : West Face (5.7 C2) : Photo
By: M.Morley When: Oct 5, 2009

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Comments: Nice shot!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: M.Morley When: Sep 17, 2009

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Comments: It's a league game, Smokey.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Photo
By: M.Morley When: Sep 14, 2009

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Comments: Thanks for the compliment!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires : Photo
By: M.Morley When: Sep 3, 2009

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Comments: I'm honored, Blitzo!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Photo
By: M.Morley When: Aug 30, 2009

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Comments: Thanks, Paul. I took it from the descent off of Hogwild heading back towards the campground.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Little Buckaroo (5.11a)
By: M.Morley When: Aug 9, 2009

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Comments: A nice addition to the area. Good work, guys!


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