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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Chemistry (5.12)
By: MIYG When: May 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best route at Wall Street, imo. .1 Camelot is nice for the upper crux, 2 friend right below the anchor.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Hot Karl Sunday (5.10c)
By: MIYG When: May 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha, burn. Downgrading ICP... Your so hard, bro.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Gold Bar Canyon : Flinstone Rock : Photo
By: MIYG When: Apr 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice find guys. Looks splitter! Can't believe this was untouched.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : To The Pain (5.10- PG13)
By: MIYG When: Apr 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know.... His offwidth is bigger than yours.. And takes more to protect. He might have a bigger wiener.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Fuel Injected Hardbody (5.12- PG13)
By: MIYG When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used the bolt... I'm so ashamed. OK, not really. I have smaller fingers but still thought this was harder than Unbelievable at Broken Tooth which has a similar boulder problem/liebacking style.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 A2-)
By: MIYG When: Mar 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any place to make an anchor at the bottom if one wanted to aid solo this thing? I guess I can walk out there after work but if anyone knows, that would be great!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: MIYG When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would like to solo this thing this weekend and go all the way to the top. Do I need two ropes to get down? The description of the rappels are long. Can I do it with my 60 m tag line? Thanks in advance.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Disco Machine Gun (5.12)
By: MIYG When: Feb 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I whipped on a .2 camelot.. it held!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9) : Photo
By: MIYG When: Feb 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice picture! Way to make the last pitch look WAY cooler than it is :)
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : Army of Darkness Boulder : Right Hand Of Darkness (V8)
By: MIYG When: Feb 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem is f.u.n.k.y. Although very intriguing. I would love to get some more beta on this thing, it seems very improbable.
Climbs like these are hard to work because you just never know if that key hold has broken making it downright impossible. Although, since its been posted, I guess it's possible. Back to the drawing board.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Utopia : Qebehsenuef (5.8+ PG13) : Photo
By: MIYG When: Feb 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work! Looks like a cool little tower!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : The Shipyard : Torpedo Bay (5.12c)
By: MIYG When: Feb 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember the bottom crux being very bouldery.. Painful locks with no feet. Having a set of nuts is very useful for the middle section, which after some breakage, is kinda funky.
Top section is about as splitter green camelots as it gets.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : Various Areas : Sloper City (V8)
By: MIYG When: Jan 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Originally, this problem was done on the flat edge/undercling one move back from the incut crimpers. I began working it this way and immediately started bringing huge blocks down on me. I believe that someone will eventually have the entire 'starting hold' in there lap.
I feel starting matched on the incut crimpers makes this a 4-star problem, and doesn't lower the grade. The rock quality for 95% of this problem is impeccable, and its my opinion that not only does the choss start severely ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : Army of Darkness Boulder : Frankenspank (V7)
By: MIYG When: Dec 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting.. I'll have to take another look. I think your assessment of BB grades is a good one. I know I've had my frustrating moments working problems just to find a quick piece of beta and quickly put it all together. It would certainly be nice to climb with someone strong and figure out beta.
I'm wishing for POW this weekend in Telluride but after that, I'll be out there. Not many boulderer's in Moab so give me a shout if you head this way on a weekend.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : Chaos Boulder : The Grim Reacher (V5)
By: MIYG When: Dec 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This line has had some recent breakage and is probably much harder than its original grade. Still goes though, I hear. Heads up.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : The Black Box : Arete Left Side (V3)
By: MIYG When: Dec 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great Big Bend dyno tour could start at Dyno for Dollars V4, then Circus Trick Stand up V4, then come over and do Hale Bop V5+, The Big Huck V7, and finally Phantom Fighter Dyno V8-9. Whew! Should probably start doing my power-cleans now!
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ilium Boulders : Itsy Bitsy Boulder : Itsy Bitsy Spider (V7-8)
By: MIYG When: Dec 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Arghhh, my never ending Telluride project. You'll have to give me some beta on this one. I'll be back next summer.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : Army of Darkness Boulder : Frankenspank (V7)
By: MIYG When: Dec 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well unless you can sit down with the left in the lower pocket I'm assuming the start is how it is described above. I always assume that the rating is sandbagged, as is the tradition of the area.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : Army of Darkness Boulder : Frankenspank (V7)
By: MIYG When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was starting sitting with right hand on the crimp. I haven't worked it to extensively though. Seems like it would go with a stab with the left from the pinch.
Also, nice work. I was planning on adding a bunch of these problems.
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Location: UT : Triassic : Golden Ladle : West Cat Daddy : 6. 60% Classic (V7)
By: MIYG When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard top out. Looks like there has been a recent breakage up top.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Echo Tower : Photo
By: MIYG When: Nov 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: These pictures fill my heart with joy. I hope to one day clip this fine piece of gear on my way to a successful ascent.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Mountains : Gimme Some Wash Wall : TT Traverse (V1)
By: MIYG When: Oct 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do you win anything for figuring out the Beta Puzzle? A date with Kristina I sure hope.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : End Of The Line (5.12-)
By: MIYG When: Oct 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the cleanest looking corners I've seen. Not much into longer routes usually, but I think I'd make an exception for this.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13)
By: MIYG When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Terence,
Take a lookie.
Vision Quest anchor forum
It doesn't matter to me who does it, I just hope they stick with the consensus of minimal bolting.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : No Fly Zone (5.12+)
By: MIYG When: Oct 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux isn't obvious on this one. Technical traversing leads to fairly burly and desperate crux that stays on you for a couple bolts. I skipped the bolt under the roof, after the crux. Get on this one before it crumbles away!
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