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Member Since: Dec 5, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 1,287
Total Points: 513
Last Year: 106
Last 30 Days: 1
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 237 | Routes 26 | Areas 1 | Photos 38 | Page Improvements | Comments 48 | Posts 67 | Stars 52 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Three Hour Buttress : StrikeSlip (5.9)
By: MisterE When: 2 days ago

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Comments: 2 pitch direct Slipstrike/3 Hour Arete hybrid:
Combines the best moderate pitches of both routes. This is the best way to get the most bang for your buck out of this formation in our humble opinion, as well as the fastest option. (1) 70 meter rope absolutely necessary (as Todd noted above).

P1 Climb the slippery bolted dihedral to an obvious crack. Stay left of bush at bulge (gear protected) . Mantle bulge, clip long draw on the anchor and keep going! Stay left and climb directly up... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Double Flipper (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Mar 19, 2015

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Comments: Yes, traverse RIGHT at the ledge. Someone has added bolts in the dihedral directly above (probably for a link-up), and they look on-route because it is hard to see the last two bolts out to the right that lead to the anchor for Double Flipper.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : String of Pearls (5.8)
By: MisterE When: Mar 14, 2015

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Comments: This is our new favorite warm-up! RReally fun route!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : Photo
By: MisterE When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: Nice time-lapse!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : Lower Elbow Room
By: MisterE When: Jan 29, 2015

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Comments: Spent half a day building steps from Phoenix to the Slip 'n Slide platform today - about 50-55 rock steps now instead of slippery scree slope.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Slip 'n Slide (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: The badly worn open shuts have been replaced with Mussy Hooks as of January 22, 2015.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Phoenix (5.7)
By: MisterE When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: Replaced the worn open shuts with Mussy hooks on January 18th, 2015.

Worn anchors on Phoenix
Worn anchors on Phoenix



Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Red Pillar left (5.11)
By: MisterE When: Nov 23, 2014

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Comments: FA: Bloom/Wolfe 2009.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Pocket Dance (5.10c)
By: MisterE When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: Just got on this climb for the first time today - one of the best of the grade in the gorge. Bring a longer draw if you are going to clip the bolt off to the left at the start of Rim Job to reduce rope drag. Really fun and varied with two good rests!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : Photo
By: MisterE When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: I believe that is looking up from the anchors at the TOP of pitch 3 and the climber is on pitch 4?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Hot Pink Socks (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Oct 17, 2014

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Comments: So much fun, and really varied with a sting in the tail. - thanks for cleaning it up so well.

One of our favorite 5.9 sport climbs in the Upper. Excellent work!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Crocodile Rock : Competitive Edge (5.10a)
By: MisterE When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: Just did this one today. Really fun climb! Bring a bunch of small stoppers and small cams for the crux and flakes. I didn't even use a #1 the whole climb and I placed 14 pieces cuz I was gripped! Bring the 3" piece is for the anchors.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilk Crags : ... : Dr. Zyme (5.10a)
By: MisterE When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: Good gear in the first 10 feet, then it runs out just as the balancy crux hits. This climb would get way more traffic and be way more enjoyable with the addition of just one bolt at the 15-foot level (where the gear runs out at the crux).

I backed off because of ground-fall potential.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : B-Line (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Replaced the badly worn anchors with 1/2" x 4" bolts and Fixe "Draco" Anchor system. Thanks to Greg Barnes and Fixe Hardware for the anchors!

Obviously, my wife had never used the Metolius PAS before...

New Draco anchors
New Draco anchors



Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : Bushwhacked (5.8)
By: MisterE When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Replaced the badly worn original anchors with 1/2" X 4" bolts and Fixe rings. We left one of the original open-shuts to clip into for re-threading.

New anchors
New anchors



Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : The Sumac Route (5.8)
By: MisterE When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Replaced the badly worn original anchors with 1/2" X 4" bolts and Fixe rings. We left one of the original open-shuts to clip into for re-threading. The stance is the same but the anchors are a bit lower in good rock.


New anchors
New anchors



Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Black Face : Blackballed (5.10b)
By: MisterE When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: Did this climb today after not getting on it for a couple of years.

There is a general loosening of the upper wall on this side, while the left side still seems solid. Flakes were coming off - and more disconcerting - some of the glued holds seem to be loosening and showing cracks in the rock/glue connection. This makes the committing initial sequence to get to the poorly-placed bolt to the right of the block even more intimidating and potentially dangerous.

Just be careful - we hope to get ou... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : Guerilla Drilla (5.10a)
By: MisterE When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: The anchors were replaced this morning per Bill L's specifications with Fixe single-ring hangers.
Also tightened two other bolts on the route.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Double Clutching Wall : Thin Faith (5.13c)
By: MisterE When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: Man, I just love the energy that has been put into the Waterfall area in this millennium. Keep it rolling!


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Mt. Gorgeous : Luscious (5.11)
By: MisterE When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: Anchors replaced November 3 2013. Thanks to the ASCA and Fixe Hardware.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Mt. Gorgeous : ... : Photo
By: MisterE When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Thanks to the ASCA and Fixe Hardware for providing the new anchors.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Mt. Gorgeous : Delicious (5.10d)
By: MisterE When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: There are nice new Fixe hangers and fixed 'biners on the route as of a few months ago. Please do not top-rope off of the lower-out anchors.

Thanks Bill, Matt and KD for the much-needed replacements!


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Bum Steer (5.10a)
By: MisterE When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: The climb is a good one, but the anchors are jacked (now?) because the cold-links on the anchor lie flat against the rock. DO NOT THREAD THESE LINKS FOR A LOWER OR RAPPEL, thread the anchors directly and rappel.

Would someone PLEASE add a couple of 3/8" quick-links to this mess? We didn't have two with us or we would have.

I'll delete some of this when the fix is posted.

Erik


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Highway 38 Crags : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : Super Soul Slab (5.9)
By: MisterE When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: I gave this route an "aviod" (bomb) because of the P.O. on the route. When and if this issue is resolved, I will change the rating to 3 stars.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : The Arsonist (5.11)
By: MisterE When: Jun 14, 2013

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Comments: Just a note to the FA team - amazing job and killer Trip Report.


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