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At Railay East Beach in Thailand


Member Since: Nov 11, 2010
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,578
Total Points: 199
Last Year: 46
Last 30 Days: 41
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 291 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 30 | Page Improvments | Comments 29 | Posts 61 | Stars 95 | Ratings 74
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet e... : The Eaglet : Photo
By: Ming When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Baby is getting older so I can go play more :)


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Misdemeanor (5.10c)
By: Ming When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Don't be fooled by S. Neoh's comments. I onsighted this but compared to the other benchmark 10a's at Rumney such as Masterpiece and Underdog this is definitely harder. I saw the moves left around the bulge but I went straight up to be more in line with the traditional line and that definitely goes at 10c - harder than Polly Purbred but easier than M. Falcon. So overall I split the difference and would call it 10 b/c. I personally think move to the chains from the last bolt is tricky too ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Great Red Book Rock : Great Red Book (5.8) : Photo
By: Ming When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: wow! Never thought of seeing that at the top :)


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Black Mamba (5.11b/c)
By: Ming When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: For anyone who is considering this route you have to do the "whole" route - the first part is fine but it isn't that memorable but what makes this line a super classic is the whole line all the up through the V-slot and topping out of Orange Crush. As for projecting it - since I just finish projecting it I would say it's safe as long as the 3rd bolt is clipped - right before the first crux.

I have tried harder lines at Rumney but so far in the 11s only Buried Treasure and this route bring a ... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Rock Du Jours Direct (5.9+)
By: Ming When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: I can't imagine a more exposed climb at Rumney at the grade. Definitely amazing and one of the best 5.9's at Rumney! Sooo airy. The uncling block move is not to be under estimated and I think is now the crux of the rout (not the overhand jug haul of a start). Must do in the fall!


Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Egg McMeadows (5.9+)
By: Ming When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Definitely not 10A. The reachy move can be skipped by going left - which is what almost everybody does these days. Traverse back to a blind reach above the bolt isn't even that bad if one is calm because the feet is there and can lean into the wall pretty well.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Jolt (5.10b X) : Photo
By: Ming When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: Well, it's alot easier to get to now :)


Location: NH : Rumney : The North West Territories : B-b-buttress (5.9)
By: Ming When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: With that block gone the start is significantly harder - and that is if you use the dead tree's root as a foot on the left of the bolt - and that thing is rotting and flexing so it won't be there for long. The 1st bolt does NOT protect the move - which is now the crux of the route. I would say it's a solid 5.10A now at the start w/using root as a foot, solid 10+ (my guess) without the root. I tried going right and the great crimp that would've kept the grade reasonable broke as I tried - th... more >>


Location: CT : Northeast : Ross Rocks : Parking Lot Wall : Fancy Footwork (5.10)
By: Ming When: Mar 24, 2013

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Comments: Crux move is definitely in the 10 range. Thin and delicate about 10 feet off deck. Obviously much easier if using the crack on the left.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Northeast Face : Lost in Space (5.10b)
By: Ming When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: I would like the FA for putting up such a nice route - it went across the best possible rock you can find on that face (we went to that area as a party of 4 - the other two people did Season's Change and was cleaning off plate size flakes).

Here's what I thought of the route:

1st pitch - 5.7 easy to miss the bolts next to your feet at the traverse. Rock look solid but I still manage to pull a mug-size hold off right at the beginning of the traverse and took a fall when I was following. I... more >>


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Zebra/ Zion (5.10b)
By: Ming When: Oct 26, 2012

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Comments: Pitch 2 is a heady lead and solid R - it's not just an ankle breaker - it's a solid hip breaker with that swing if you fall on the traverse for sure. I know 5.8 to 5.5/6 slab sounds easy but it is a very serious lead with harsh consequences for failure. The 5.5/6 slab part has very poor protection with shallow protection of poor quality rock so you are essentially soloing at the 15 feet point of the traverse.

We did Lion Zion (5.10c/d) as our first pitch - and I must say my toes are mad at ... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Buried Treasure (5.11b)
By: Ming When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: Fantastic climb for sure. Great for breaking into the mid 11s at Rumney. It is like 3 different routes stacked on top of each other. First part is basic 5.9 face climbing. Pull the roof then up to the crack. Short people like me lay back on the sidepull while taller people can get decent feet on out right. The second crux is a hard pull up from the crimp up the slab and get established. It finishes with an easy 10ish crack that you can jam securely while having enough features on the... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : New Wave : Night Crawler (5.9)
By: Ming When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Quick route description - scramble up to the first bolt (4th class). Easy 5.6 ish climbing to the 2nd bolt. Cut up to the left now and there is one good jug above the 3rd bolt which will be your only respite from the crimpers. Slowly work up the edges for the next 2 bolts and a pull over a ledge to finish. Decent intro 5.9 for people just getting into 5.9 climbing.


Location: NH : Rumney : New Wave : The Daytripper (5.8+)
By: Ming When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: Climbs much better than it looks. Start up easy mossy slab (5.4) for 4 bolts. Some gardening maybe be needed. Get to the overlap where the business begins. Clip the bolt protect the move pulling over the overlap and down climb a little bit into the corner of the overlap. Good hold and fancy footwork will get you over and a high left foot will get you stabilized again. A few more stemming moves and you'll be at the chains. Don't discount this route - it's more fun than it looks.


Location: NH : Rumney : New Wave : Schist Another Sport Climb (5.8)
By: Ming When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: Can we say not even close to a 5.7? I don't think it's a 5.7 even if you are 6+ feet tall. I put my wife up on it because it's suppose to be a "5.7" and I watch her struggle on the crux move while she had little trouble on the 5.9 next to it. She is 5 ft 2 in. I got on it and being 5ft 2in w/-3 ape index and I had to use my power to pull onto the non-bucket ledge. I saw the easier holds to my left that would've dropped the move dow to 5.9 ish but I did a 10ish thuggish move that is upper... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Holderness Corner : Holderness School Corner (5.8)
By: Ming When: Aug 10, 2012

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Comments: With doubles on C1s & 2s and a 3 it felt like a sport climb - just plug and go and the pro was real solid. I think I also placed a .75 for a total of 6 pieces. We pulled the rope and people led it like a sport climb afterwards and one guy even hung his way up. Overall I really enjoyed the climb.


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Center : Skunks in the Gym (5.10c)
By: Ming When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: Climbed it again on July 14 2012. Without the hold at around the 6th bolt it's definitely harder for short people like me. What use to be a delicate move up from the hold is now a desperate smear to get to the next good crimp. I have a 5 ft 2 in span and I couldn't reach by my second at 5 ft 9 in had no problems and popped his hand right on the next crimper.

Still love it though. Great climb.


Location: NH : Rumney : New Wave : Smokestack (5.9+)
By: Ming When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: No way I can squeeze in the chimney at the top! I had to do the layback move and it is pretty rad. Loved it!


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : The Maltese Falcon (5.8)
By: Ming When: Jun 21, 2012

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Comments: Tricky feet - harder than the 5.8 slabs at the Meadows I think.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Far From Feral (5.10a)
By: Ming When: Jun 21, 2012

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Comments: Fun roof pull - feels 10A when the draws are hung. Cool roof pull that feels easier than the 2nd crux of Armed & Dangerous - the hand is better than it looks when laid back and the feet is pretty solid if you spot it in advance. It was a bit reachy for short people like me (I have a reach of a 5.2 person) to hang the crux draw. We did this + M. Falcon linkup but getting to the belay bolt at Millennium Falcon was really dirty at this point - but it seems like a logical 1st pitch to it.


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Left Wall : Leonids (5.9)
By: Ming When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: Climbed it on 5/4/2012. Absolutely loved it! Rock is clean and very well bolted! A slabby technical start immediately wakes you up after the first 2 bolts, and then it steepens to some very nice face climbing. This continues up the seconds pitch and just as I was getting comfy and use to the climbing style the 3rd traverse pitch totally switched it up! I love the exposure as I used the undercling on the slab and then stepped out to the good foot before getting to the ledge - it was soo... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Kennel Wall : I'm Talking to The Dog (5.9+)
By: Ming When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: The reach to the jug at the top height dependent even with the right foot - I had to do a fairly insecure bump. For that reason I give it a 5.9+/10A. I can totally see why Lee says it's a 9 but having to do the bump pushes it up a notch for short people. Sometimes I wish people can shrink for a day so they can see how much harder it is :)


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay West : ... : Monkey Love (5.10c)
By: Ming When: Mar 16, 2012

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Comments: The traverse from stalactite to stalactite is awesome. Cool and airy with big and secure holds. The anchor is bomber. There is a pitch that goes above it that I did that goes at about 10b ish. Delicate face climbing (and route finding) ending on an airy traverse out onto a small stalactite that finishes at a huge ledge with a solid anchor. Does anyone know what it is? There is also a 3rd pitch but that is solidly in the 11+ territory from the looks of it so I rapped down from there.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Chloe's Breakfast Special (5.8)
By: Ming When: Feb 27, 2012

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Comments: Great 5.8 lead for a 5.8 leader. It's progressive, safe, and just technical enough to keep the new leader on his or her toes. Fun route when it's dry enough to run up on it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Caliban (5.8+ R)
By: Ming When: Feb 24, 2012

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Comments: I did this back in 2007 and it was the most gut wrench thing I have ever done at that point. Solid R for sure even thought it's easy 5th class once you get past the steep part that lasts only about 10 or so feet past the second bolt (thought ground fall is very likely at that point - and you will deck past that point). I did this when I was barely a 5.9 - 5.10a lead in the gym so it was one of my proudest leads.


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