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At Railay East Beach in Thailand


Member Since: Nov 11, 2010
Last Visit: 48 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 2,230
Total Points: 284
Last Year: 126
Last 30 Days: 23
21 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ming been climbing?










Contributions


All 380 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 44 | Page Improvements | Comments 44 | Posts 70 | Stars 123 | Ratings 97
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Charity Case (5.9)
By: Ming When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: Crux moves are way easier than Gold Digger, which is rated at 5.8+, so how could it be 5.9? Sailed right past it the first time no problem. Got back on it again recently and it's fun but pretty casual. If you are a number chaser this could be a great first 5.9. Can anyone think of a softer 5.9 at Rumney?


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Crowd Pleaser (5.7)
By: Ming When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Yep I used an 70. You can easily use a 60 also if you belay from the top. The 70 I need to do 2 raps. The rope was not close to the ground from the top anchors to do it in one rap - from the looks of it I doubt an 80 will get you down in one rap.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Crowd Pleaser (5.7)
By: Ming When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Linked both pitches and belayed from the top of the 2nd pitch. It was around 150-160 feet and had to skip a few bolts on the 2nd pitch to keep the rope drag manageable (apline draws would've helped alot there). First pitch is one of the best 5.7s at Rumney - it just brings a smile to my face as I was climbing it and the 2nd pitch clocked in at 5.6 or so but the position is amazing - the arete is really airy and fun.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Tipping Point (5.8)
By: Ming When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: The second pitch is stellar - a few slab moves to a headwall and a pretty cool pull over the lip of the headwall. Did I spot some blueberry patches at the tree above the 1st pitch anchors? That bumps the climb another star for me during blueberry season :)


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : B-b-buttress (5.9)
By: Ming When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: First time back on the route since the new start. Kudos for the cleanup! The first bolt is in a great position now and protects the move! Solid in the 9+ range now with the crux being the starting move. I actually like this router even more now. Definitely one of the best 5.9s at Rumney.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : The Beastie (5.7)
By: Ming When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: Watch out for the sap at the anchors. There is a lot of it and we got it on our rope. Yuck.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : Shine On (5.4)
By: Ming When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: I don't think it is the left most route anymore. There is another one to the left of it that goes at around 5.6 w/crux on the 2nd bolt. It's a bulge that is best done with a high left foot mantle.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Aperitif (5.10a)
By: Ming When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: I think this is the best route at the crag. Just fun with monster jugs and very flowy movement.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Wine Style (5.11b)
By: Ming When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: Don't want to spoil it for people but it climbs easier than it looks. Too bad the fog rolled in so it was cold and damp when I tried the onsight. If you are a gym climber in the 10d/11a range you can comfortably lead through the crux of this one.


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet e... : The Eaglet : The West Chimney (5.7)
By: Ming When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 3 variation is the way to go - easy traverse with phenomenal exposure for some memorable 5.5ish moves.

There is another 3rd pitch variation - from the bolt swing right to stay on the west side of the spire. Instead of traversing the horizontal go straight up the arete. Wonderful and airy but the climbing is really reasonable at around 5.8 (+? Not sure) or so. Fantastic way to finish the climb and it felt super exposed in that position as my left hand was grabbing the arete the whole ... more >>


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet e... : The Eaglet : The West Chimney (5.7) : Photo
By: Ming When: Sep 7, 2014

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Comments: I think that is a much better variation than the tradition route


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet e... : The Eaglet : Photo
By: Ming When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: Baby is getting older so I can go play more :)


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Misdemeanor (5.10c)
By: Ming When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Don't be fooled by S. Neoh's comments. I onsighted this but compared to the other benchmark 10a's at Rumney such as Masterpiece and Underdog this is definitely harder. I saw the moves left around the bulge but I went straight up to be more in line with the traditional line and that definitely goes at 10c - harder than Polly Purbred but easier than M. Falcon. So overall I split the difference and would call it 10 b/c. I personally think move to the chains from the last bolt is tricky too ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Great Red Book Rock : Great Red Book (5.8) : Photo
By: Ming When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: wow! Never thought of seeing that at the top :)


Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Black Mamba (5.11b/c)
By: Ming When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: For anyone who is considering this route you have to do the "whole" route - the first part is fine but it isn't that memorable but what makes this line a super classic is the whole line all the up through the V-slot and topping out of Orange Crush. As for projecting it - since I just finish projecting it I would say it's safe as long as the 3rd bolt is clipped - right before the first crux.

I have tried harder lines at Rumney but so far in the 11s only Buried Treasure and this route bring a ... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Rock Du Jours Direct (5.9+)
By: Ming When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: I can't imagine a more exposed climb at Rumney at the grade. Definitely amazing and one of the best 5.9's at Rumney! Sooo airy. The uncling block move is not to be under estimated and I think is now the crux of the rout (not the overhand jug haul of a start). Must do in the fall!


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Egg McMeadows (5.9+)
By: Ming When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Definitely not 10A. The reachy move can be skipped by going left - which is what almost everybody does these days. Traverse back to a blind reach above the bolt isn't even that bad if one is calm because the feet is there and can lean into the wall pretty well.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Jolt (5.10a) : Photo
By: Ming When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: Well, it's a lot easier to get to now :)


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : B-b-buttress (5.9)
By: Ming When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: With that block gone the start is significantly harder - and that is if you use the dead tree's root as a foot on the left of the bolt - and that thing is rotting and flexing so it won't be there for long. The 1st bolt does NOT protect the move - which is now the crux of the route. I would say it's a solid 5.10A now at the start w/using root as a foot, solid 10+ (my guess) without the root. I tried going right and the great crimp that would've kept the grade reasonable broke as I tried - th... more >>


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : Parking Lot Wall : Fancy Footwork (5.10)
By: Ming When: Mar 24, 2013

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Comments: Crux move is definitely in the 10 range. Thin and delicate about 10 feet off deck. Obviously much easier if using the crack on the left.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : Lost in Space (5.10b)
By: Ming When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: I would like the FA for putting up such a nice route - it went across the best possible rock you can find on that face (we went to that area as a party of 4 - the other two people did Season's Change and was cleaning off plate size flakes).

Here's what I thought of the route:

1st pitch - 5.7 easy to miss the bolts next to your feet at the traverse. Rock look solid but I still manage to pull a mug-size hold off right at the beginning of the traverse and took a fall when I was following. I... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Zion (5.10b)
By: Ming When: Oct 26, 2012

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Comments: Pitch 2 is a heady lead and solid R - it's not just an ankle breaker - it's a solid hip breaker with that swing if you fall on the traverse for sure. I know 5.8 to 5.5/6 slab sounds easy but it is a very serious lead with harsh consequences for failure. The 5.5/6 slab part has very poor protection with shallow protection of poor quality rock so you are essentially soloing at the 15 feet point of the traverse.

We did Lion Zion (5.10c/d) as our first pitch - and I must say my toes are mad at ... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Buried Treasure (5.11b)
By: Ming When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: Fantastic climb for sure. Great for breaking into the mid 11s at Rumney. It is like 3 different routes stacked on top of each other. First part is basic 5.9 face climbing. Pull the roof then up to the crack. Short people like me lay back on the sidepull while taller people can get decent feet on out right. The second crux is a hard pull up from the crimp up the slab and get established. It finishes with an easy 10ish crack that you can jam securely while having enough features on the... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : New Wave : Night Crawler (5.9)
By: Ming When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Quick route description - scramble up to the first bolt (4th class). Easy 5.6 ish climbing to the 2nd bolt. Cut up to the left now and there is one good jug above the 3rd bolt which will be your only respite from the crimpers. Slowly work up the edges for the next 2 bolts and a pull over a ledge to finish. Decent intro 5.9 for people just getting into 5.9 climbing.


Location: NH : *Rumney : New Wave : The Daytripper (5.8+)
By: Ming When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: Climbs much better than it looks. Start up easy mossy slab (5.4) for 4 bolts. Some gardening maybe be needed. Get to the overlap where the business begins. Clip the bolt protect the move pulling over the overlap and down climb a little bit into the corner of the overlap. Good hold and fancy footwork will get you over and a high left foot will get you stabilized again. A few more stemming moves and you'll be at the chains. Don't discount this route - it's more fun than it looks.


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