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steve's arete 5.11


Member Since: Oct 8, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact mikehilbert


Point Rank: # 1,139
Total Points: 546
Last Year: 121
Last 30 Days: 1
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has mikehilbert been climbing?










Contributions


All 431 | Routes 20 | Areas 8 | Photos 41 | Page Improvements | Comments 21 | Posts 14 | Stars 304 | Ratings 23

Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : GM (Government Motors) (5.6)
By: mikehilbert When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: This is not a trad climb. At best, it's a mixed route, but there's really only one placement. This is the bolt line to the right of the black streak.


Location: International : South America : Ecuador : Cotopaxi : Regular Route (Mod. Snow)
By: mikehilbert When: Jul 8, 2014

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Comments: Acclimatization plan:
2 days in Quito (9000 ft)
4 days in Quilotoa loop (12-13,000 ft)
travel day
Pichinicha Rucu (15,400 ft)**
travel day**
Iliniza Norte (16,800 ft)
rest day
Cotopaxi (19,300 ft)

  • *if you have time/feel you need further help acclimatizing



Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : Lizard Rock
By: mikehilbert When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: This formation is completely out of sight until you have passed it. The first view of it you get is from South Willow Canyon Rd near Rose Canyon Lake. From this vantage point and beyond, it looks kind of like a sleeping iguana (or in my opinion, a tortoise shell). It's fun to scramble up on but for my money, the climbing isn't great here.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : High Noon (5.9+ X)
By: mikehilbert When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: The grade for this climb is based on the Bob Hutchins and John Steiger's Climber's Guide to Sabino Canyon and Mount Lemmon Highway. I'm assuming this was graded using the "old" system, as it felt to me more like a solid 5.11 if not harder.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Photo
By: mikehilbert When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: What is the name/grade of the climb in between 12 oclock high and old dude attitude?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Photo
By: mikehilbert When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: What is the route in on the greenish face between Old Dude Attitude (5.12) and 12 O'clock High (5.10R)? It felt like a 5.11...or harder.


Location: International : Oceania
By: mikehilbert When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Agreed. Taiwan, Japan = Asia. New Zealand = Australia. I know local peoples, languages, etc may suggest otherwise, but for the sake of convenient organization...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Alcove
By: mikehilbert When: Jan 11, 2014

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Comments: Be wary of bees in this area. They've establish a nest in the damp area under the boulder to the right of the main alcove wall.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Against The Current (V1)
By: mikehilbert When: Jan 11, 2014

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Comments: There's a tree in the way of this now and bees are swarming like crazy over this whole place...and have been for a year.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock
By: mikehilbert When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: Whether you are climbing or belaying here, PLEASE WEAR A HELMET! Despite the heavy traffic this crag gets, loose rock flies off of every climb like crazy. Please do yourself and the rest of the climbing community a favor by doming up.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Atomic FireBall (5.10c/d)
By: mikehilbert When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: I fell at the crux move, which comes just after clipping 2nd bolt...decked on ledge and sprained ankle. There is really no way to not deck if you actually go for it and miss. This line needs a third and possibly fourth bolt added between 2 and 3. I'd recommend not onsighting this if you are anything less than a solid 11 leader.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Photo
By: mikehilbert When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: I found this to be the crux


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Twice As Nice (5.8)
By: mikehilbert When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: How long is each pitch? Will a 60m suffice to rap off? ...or is it a walk off?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Fisherman's Elbow (5.8+)
By: mikehilbert When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: Have second bolts been added to the single bolt belay anchors? Is this a walk-off? I'm concerned about rapping off single bolt.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : The Climb Too Tough To Die (5.10a PG13)
By: mikehilbert When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: Is this the oft climbed alt final pitch for ewephoria? The beta pic makes it look as much. If so, what would y'all rate/grade the final pitch? I'm giving it *** and 9+ based on awkward traverse and awesome exposure.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Birthday Girl (5.10)
By: mikehilbert When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: a 60 m rope is required to belay from the ground...50 m rope you need to use the belay station on slab up small gully.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Bug Spring Wall
By: mikehilbert When: Mar 13, 2013

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Comments: The directions for this approach and associated comments confused the hell out of us. All you really need to do is take the right fork in the drainage at the second set of metal pipes. Follow this drainage all the way to the crag. It will be obvious, up and to your right when the drainage levels out and becomes sandy.

Aside, the climbs here were average to good, IMO, with sun on the wall this time of year (march) beginning around 1:00 pm until sundown. If you're waiting till sundown to hike ou... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Rivendale
By: mikehilbert When: Dec 27, 2012

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Comments: Squeezing The Lemon guidebook (and this site) state this wall is south facing (s-sw). For the record, the wall faces west-northwest. Some afternoon sun but not much, maybe a couple hours in the winter. On a side note...fun hike!


Location: International : Oceania : Micronesia : Photo
By: mikehilbert When: Oct 11, 2012

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Comments: The caroline islands are FSM


Location: International : Oceania : Micronesia
By: mikehilbert When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: Feel free to add beta to this area (Micronesia) for the following locations:

Guam - I've heard there's a rock gym, beach bouldering on coral and limestone and a sport crag with five lines (5.10-5.11) at the Talofofo cliffs, as well as some off-limits spots near military bases and Lover's Point. I've also seen pictures of people cliff jumping off what could be deep water solos and others of people rappelling waterfalls there.

Northern Marianas (Saipan) - There appear to be numerous peaks and cl... more >>


Location: International : Oceania : Palau
By: mikehilbert When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: What you see in the pictures is probably what you'll get there...likely some sick deep water soloing opps on the limestone islands! I highly doubt there's any developed climbing crags.

Also, this area can be moved to the Oceania -> Micronesia destination now. Just a thought.