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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Ice Cream Parlor crack (5.11-)
By: Mike Soucy When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Skyeler's gear list is accurate. .75 is useless on this pitch. I protected the start with a #2 camalot in an undercling. Then a #4 (old size) below the finger crack. 2x .3, 4x .4, 2-3 .5's for the biz.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : The Other Road (5.11a)
By: Mike Soucy When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, Drew.
Well bolted,and the 2nd pitch is definitely the highlight. We found it to be well protected throughout, with only the 3rd pitch holding lots of lichen, excellent climbing nonetheless. Looking forward to trying the one just right of it.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Davis Face
By: Mike Soucy When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another route on the face starts just left of the Carter Classic and goes at .10a.
Look for a bolt 30' up or so on the slab. Follow .9 friction past bolts, supplemented with small cams to a bolted belay just left of CC.
P2 goes up and right from belay over a small roof, then following cracks to another bolted belay, .9+.
P3 trends up and right again clipping bolts along an overlap with a couple of .10a moves. An excellent pitch. Follow this to where it intersects w/ CC and finish or rap.
This i... more >>
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Bob's Rock : Ego Buster (5.10c)
By: Mike Soucy When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent and challenging for the grade, your ego just might get busted. As for the lieback section at the top of the "Flakes" route, a #2 Camalot at the bottom and a #0.4 in the horizontal a bit higher protect it well. An additional #1 is really all you need.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Bob's Rock : Bob's Crack (5.9+)
By: Mike Soucy When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A single set of Camalots from .3-3 and sm/med nuts protect this route adequately.
Rated 5.10a/b in Ark Valley guidebook.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Bob's Rock : Twist and Shout (5.11d)
By: Mike Soucy When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Buety of a line (pardon the pun). Great rock, nice moves.
Couple of additions: It's a right-trending crack, not left. A medium stopper protects the moves to the second bolt.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Below The Arch Crag : Manzaneater (5.9+ PG13)
By: Mike Soucy When: Aug 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lee-
Did you get to the thin L-facing corner on the right yet?
Looks like a great line, would go with small gear I think.
That's a nice little crag, eh?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Pacific Peak : North Face Couloirs
By: Mike Soucy When: May 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found fixed line from top of couloir down through bottom of crux. Perfect for rapping through steep and narrow choke (65deg,narrower than your skis) Double check security as I relocated it from some melt/freeze chossiness.
Nice snow.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Teale Tower : Teale Tower Route (5.11a)
By: Mike Soucy When: Nov 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch is pretty entertaining, you should try it before assigning "piece" status. As said above, it looks harder than it is and is fun to figure out. The walk-off is easy in climbing shoes. I would like to repeat the request not to add any bolts to this climb (it would indeed be retrobolting, as in adding new bolts after the first ascent). If folks think that the first pitch needs cleaning up to get better, then set up a TR and run some laps. It's a great crack.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Turkey Foot Crack (5.9)
By: Mike Soucy When: Nov 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: In relation to starting this thing-
I just did the lefthand start the other day and found the finger crack fun, but it felt super contrived up top, where you were stemming over to this awesome hand crack whilst scumming a couple of digits into an extremely painful finger crack (waaaah). The opening moves are really cool passing the little bush, but don't ignore the hand crack, cause it feels real good.
Also, for the upper part, 3x #3 Camalots, one new #4/old #3.5 and a couple ... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: Mike Soucy When: Jul 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two fixed wires welded into 1st pitch crux. They're really at the perfect height to clip-and-go. For a rack, singles in fingery sizes is adequate and doubles from #0.75 Camalot to #3 Camalot (#3.5 Friend was nice). One #4 Camalot. Single set wires.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Escape Artist (5.9+)
By: Mike Soucy When: May 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know anything about the left-hand of the two cracks leading to The Vector? I just did this route for the second time over the weekend and tried that option. It's really good, a bit thinner than the right-hand crack. The crux is at the top and pinches off a bit like the Comic Relief crux does. Probably not as hard though. It should be recommended as another option.
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