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Location: Mike Lane : Misc. : Photo
By: Mike Lane When: Oct 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha! Yes, Fester and Morticia. Only thats the Addams Family.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: Mike Lane When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tod is updating his guidebook. There might be 30-40% more routes in the next edition. In the meantime, enjoy the solitude.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Falls Wall : Rim Job (5.12+)
By: Mike Lane When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why is Chris Drysdale listed on the FA list? He was totally out of the picture by then and had zero to do with this route.
Also regarding the mention of the project to the right, it is called Bones and listed here.
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Location: CO : Central Park Bouldering Are...
By: Mike Lane When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wonder if this sets up a precedent we could exploit. But then Denver denies Sanctuary status and just flat out ignores the voters with the tow-away bill, so law is an arbitrary matter. I guess that makes them a regime.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Cornered Rats (5.11b)
By: Mike Lane When: Aug 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Monty-
Just read your comments about the anchors. The reason they end up where they do is that setting the anchors there tends to be a pretty involved process; usually with some insecure trad placements, back tension on the rope, the thrill of drilling with a wicked pendulum if you cut loose....
Unlike the route clips, we don't get much of a chance to refine the anchors before committing. Most of the time we're guessing that the anchors are in line over the objective. Then, once the an... more >>
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Location: Mike Lane : Misc. : Photo
By: Mike Lane When: Jun 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I should mention she is a Czech, so the curses hurled at me come with lots of rolling rrrr's
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Photo
By: Mike Lane When: Jun 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note the distant rain. Haven't left there dry yet this year.
Did ya send?
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Vietnam : Bikini Girls with Machine G... (5.11a/b)
By: Mike Lane When: Jun 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was going to use that name. At least it has a good home.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Sun Towers : ... : Photo
By: Mike Lane When: May 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Settle down; looks like a belay to me.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Wendell Spire : Bag of Tricks aka Flake (5.9+)
By: Mike Lane When: May 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bryce, first of all all caps equals shouting.
Anyway, the key beta here is that you backstep with the left foot and thrust your left buttcheek onto the angled ramp thingy. Once you've weighted the buttcheek, you can reposition hands and feet and move on.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : C-Section : Beta Slave (5.10c)
By: Mike Lane When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Responding to some queries here:
- This route needs better anchors and to have the crux hanger replaced. Tzilla has approached CWC about the replacement iniative, which is pending....
- An AC wondered if a hold broke because it seemed harder than .10c. No, it's the same route, just highly devious. Hence the name.
- This is not a good route for the nascent 5.10 leader. The crux bolt is 3'-4' below your feet when you engage the crux, which is 5 moves to the next clip hold. 10-15 footers are common.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Wendell Spire : Cobble Wobble (5.10c)
By: Mike Lane When: Apr 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's 5.10E.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Fireblack Boulder : Nothin' But Faith in Nothin... (V3)
By: Mike Lane When: Apr 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The FNA doesn't count without a pic. Not that I want to see it, just sayin'.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Fireblack Boulder : Tracy's Bushy Crack (V0+) : Photo
By: Mike Lane When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ‹(•¿•)›
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Location: Mike Lane : Misc. : Photo
By: Mike Lane When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ‹(•¿•)›
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Location: tooTALLtim : 3/2009 Castle Valley : Photo
By: Mike Lane When: Apr 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Much more of that young man, and you're taking Physics 101 again.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Winter Warmer (5.10d)
By: Mike Lane When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave Fields actually GOT Zippy. The one in the comics. You know, the one you occasionally read and just kind of go "what!?" inside your head. Dave actually got that shit! He'd try to explain, but if you don't have those particular genes it was to no avail.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ed Rock
By: Mike Lane When: Mar 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Never mind the climbing, I want to see all those Karens hanging out there. Is Karen Black one? Are they in bikinis during the summer? Maybe one of them could show me where the cairns are.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : The Three Sisters : Photo
By: Mike Lane When: Mar 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the song goes "hey, the bathroom's on the right."
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : The Dungeon : Lichen the Old County (5.10a)
By: Mike Lane When: Mar 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: More like .10b/c.
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Location: stephanie maltarich : a foto : Photo
By: Mike Lane When: Mar 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If I ever hit Powerball, one of those goes up in the backyard.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Photo
By: Mike Lane When: Mar 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Invaders From the North (.11b) at the Falls Wall. Rim Job is near, about 30 feet to the south.
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Location: Daryl Allan : Climbing : Photo
By: Mike Lane When: Feb 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bizarre markings. It reminds me of one of my dad's ties back in the '70's. The buzz alone is always more of a thrill than I need, having it nick your pants from under a rock.....yeeeesh.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : C-Section : Radiation Fear (5.11a)
By: Mike Lane When: Feb 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: During routine maintenance today one of the anchor bolts snapped off. For the time being there is only one coldshut up top. There are ways to clean it still if you incorporate the anchors of either Heavy Duty Judy or First Dibs (You can get to the single anchor by lowering from either, or run it out on easier terrain to HDJ and have someone follow).
The good thing here is that this will spur a concerted effort to get an anchor replacement initiative going at CWC. Many are over 20 years old.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Project X Wall : Rest in Pieces (5.10b)
By: Mike Lane When: Jan 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was the one who bolted this thing and did the first lead, after it had been toproped 100 times by everyone. But .10B?
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