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Location: AZ : Superstition Mountains : Northwest Pinnacles : The Tower : Standard Route (5.8+ R)
By: Mike Diesen When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not as serious as the guide book suggests. Climb about 8 feet off the ground and there is a bomber tri-cam placement. About 5 feet further and place a bomber nut in a crack. After the ledge follow a nice crack that takes lots of pro to the top of the first belay. The second pitch felt a lot more serious and run out on old bolts and a few pieces. If you find a placement do not pass it up on this route. The rapel is probably closer to 175 feet I would suggest 2 60s not 50s. We thought a 70 would b... more >>
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Everlasting Gobstopper (5.10b/c)
By: Mike Diesen When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone added a bolt so a CAM is no longer needed.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Cracker Jack (5.10c/d)
By: Mike Diesen When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So you're saying if I take a large fall that generates 6kn of force on my cam then the cam generates 25kn of force on the rock. Rocks tough so that doesn't bother me but remembering my college physics day this means that the rock generates an equal force back on the cam (25kn). Makes me wonder how a cam rated at 12kn holds a large fall. Maybe that is why I'm always more comfortable with a bomber nut placement.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Kit Kat (5.8)
By: Mike Diesen When: Apr 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes it was Daryl. He just earned himself 20 feet of penalty slack the next time he climbs.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Lemonhead (5.10d)
By: Mike Diesen When: Mar 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super, super fun! Lots of varied climbing. Start with a hard roof then lieback the crack to the left or go up on impossible slab to the right. After lieback move right across hard thin slab to final roof. Good luck on the roof! Love this route!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock
By: Mike Diesen When: Mar 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's northwest facing so gets pm sun.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Atomic FireBall (5.10c/d)
By: Mike Diesen When: Feb 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did a fun variation. Climb Kit Kat. After clipping the 4th bolt continue up the ramp. Finish on Fireball. The final roof just below the anchors is the funnest part of the climb. Makes a fun sustained 5.8 variation to the routes.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Whatchamacallit (5.8)
By: Mike Diesen When: Feb 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch follows bolts on the face right of a left leaning crack. When I originally climbed it I went up the crack on gear. As an alternative I left the crack as a gear lead. It goes at about 5.6 or easy 5.7.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Kit Kat (5.8)
By: Mike Diesen When: Jan 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is the second to third bolt. Run out so really watch yourself. Probably closer to 5.8+. Maybe even pushing easy 5.9.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Jaw Breaker (5.10a/b)
By: Mike Diesen When: Jan 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route has cleaned up nicely and is super fun. The first time I climbed it the loose rock really sketched me out. Just had a chance to run up it again and it is fun, fun. Steep, sustained and exposed.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Atomic FireBall (5.10c/d)
By: Mike Diesen When: Jan 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route really isn't sustained. It has a super hard (5.10+) move at the second bolt but the rest of the route is only 5.8. If you can get past the second bolt though the upper part is really fun.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Ewephoria (5.7)
By: Mike Diesen When: Nov 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you know how to lie-back the first pitch is probably no harder than 5.6 or 5.7. If you can't do lie-back probably want someone else to lead or you're going to grunt up it. Bring lots of small to medium cams for pitch one and you won't have any problem with protecting this pitch. Be sure to climb to the chicken heads above the dike before stepping across to the face. Makes the step across onto the face easier and allows better protection in the crack.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8) : Photo
By: Mike Diesen When: Oct 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why would you chop the anchors??? I never understand why slung natural pro with a climbers garbage for repel is preferred over neat looking bolted repel stations that are well camouflaged from site.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Ides of Middlemarch (5.9+)
By: Mike Diesen When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route has been significantly improved. The roof at the first pitch is now protected by 3 new bolts and once over the roof a new 2 bolt direct has been added that is probably 10a. However you can still do the standard route. Each belay now has 2 bolt chain anchors. Very much improved. Due to dangerously loose blocks don't do the final pitch. Finish on Peacemaker. Give it a try. You won't be disappointed.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: Mike Diesen When: May 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great route with a wide variety of climbing. 16 draws, a couple slings for chicken heads on the last pitch and a full set of cams (couple small but mostly medium to large) is all that is needed.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Whale Dome : Moby Dick (5.8)
By: Mike Diesen When: Oct 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great easy multi-pitch climb. Good gear placements. Can be climbed in 3 pitches with a 70 meter rope. Good choice because you won't have to pack in an extra rope. The repel is about 33 meters so 70 meters will reach the ground with a few feet to spare. Consider having the first one to repel carry the rope with them. If the wind is blowing it will get caught around the corner.
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