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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Green Bonus (5.13+)
By: Mike Anderson When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think it's harder than 13c. I sent this shortly after climbing Nintendo at the Gorilla Cliffs in St George (13c), and Sitting in Limbo (13b/c) at Penitente, and it didn't take me significantly more time to do. The crux is bouldery, but you get to do it with no pump whatsoever. I suppose it depends on your philosopy for route grading. This route may have the hardest single moves at Shelf, but since you get to do them right off the ground, I don't think that justifies a really hard rat... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : In Search of Unicorns (5.11- R)
By: Mike Anderson When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well that's not a very nice thing to say...you don't know anything about me. In fact, I'm sure we'd get along great if we hung out.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Fairfield Hill
By: Mike Anderson When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I always thought pockets in limestone were due to acid in rainwater desolving the limestone, but what do I know.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : In Search of Unicorns (5.11- R)
By: Mike Anderson When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Intimidation"? Jesus, Pete, it was a joke...chill out man. We're talking about climbing...quite possibly the most esoteric and meaningless pursuit in the history of man. The only thing you have to fear, is fear itself...that and my Hilti Te-6A...vroom, vroom!
(Let's see if you can spot that joke.)
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : In Search of Unicorns (5.11- R)
By: Mike Anderson When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Careful...I don't think you want to engage me in a debate about the historical significance of Turkey Tail.
If we were to plot a spectrum of "sport crag-iness" that had, say, Rifle Mountain Park on one end and the Eiger Nordwand on the other, Turkey Tail would lie much closer to the RMP end.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : In Search of Unicorns (5.11- R)
By: Mike Anderson When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Keeping track of aid FAs on a 200' sport crag seems kind of ridiculous, don't you think? I'd like to consider Ed's climb as a recon of a future route.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rodeo Wave : Atomic Stetson (5.13c)
By: Mike Anderson When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Saying a Wild Iris route is bouldery is like saying the same thing twice, like being redundant.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Erratic : When I Was a Young Girl, I ... (5.13a)
By: Mike Anderson When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Amy Skinner did the FA of this, back before she was Amy Skinner. She climbs this in the original "Masters of Stone" - the greatest climbing film ever made.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Titties & Beer (aka "World... (5.9)
By: Mike Anderson When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think that's a Maple tree you rap off. The tree is fairly obvious, but calling it a Maple (as the guidebook does) caused us to hesitate a little bit. Pretty fun route. At the start of pitch 2, do you guys climb off the left side of the belay or right side? I climbed off the left side and it was easy, but there was no gear. It looked like there was gear on the right, but it looked less direct.
I thought the Michelin Man move was the crux, but I'm short.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps
By: Mike Anderson When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The alphabetical listing of routes here is not at all helpful to someone who doesn't have a guidebook (or even those who do). I would prefer the routes listed in order as you hike from the parking lot. In its current form, I find this guide nearly worthless.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Cornflake Crack (5.11a)
By: Mike Anderson When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: F'ing rad route, and in no way comparable to a Valley climb...it's much better.
Why no bolts at the end of pitch 2? I had to rig a ridiculous 20 foot tether to the big tree that made it impossible to give a tight belay. Why are top-ropers treated better than lead climbers around here?
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Womb (5.11a)
By: Mike Anderson When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! The first two (or one) pitches are much better than they look...and the end of the 2nd pitch packs a punch. The crux pitch tests a key trad climbing skill: the switch from chimney-ing to laybacking. Don't you dare step on those bolts!
We were a little confused by the bolt setup: If you get a case of vaginitis and decided to bail without sending the Womb proper, you get to rap off two nice stainless steel bolts. On the other hand, if you sack up and send it, you're rewarded wit... more >>
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Dum Dee Dum Dum (5.10c PG13)
By: Mike Anderson When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch was interesting, but the remainder of the route was not so good. I looked for quite awhile, but couldn't find any moves approaching 5.9 on the third pitch...just a bunch of low angle, very mossy slab climbing.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Hyperbola (5.10a R)
By: Mike Anderson When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't see anything mentioned here or in the guidebook, but it seemed to me that the direct 5.11 start relies heavily on the decaying tree at the base. There was chalk all over it, and freeing the moves without the tree looked every bit as difficult as the 5.11 crux, but with no gear. Do others use the tree? I think another bolt may be in order if that tree falls down.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Sundial Crack (5.8-)
By: Mike Anderson When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I liked this much better than "The Nose", and I thought it was easier and significantly better protected (with the possible exception of the first pitch).
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Location: John Davis : Photo : Photo
By: Mike Anderson When: Mar 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice bowling shoes! My bro has a pair just like those.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Gatekeeper Wall : Locksmith Dihedral (5.12a)
By: Mike Anderson When: Feb 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I give this 4 stars for the first four pitches. This makes a great half-day outing of consistent 5.11 climbing with a short 12- crux.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Watchman : Photo
By: Mike Anderson When: Feb 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Brian! This is much needed and much appreciated. I always wondered where the Lowe/Weis went.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail
By: Mike Anderson When: Jan 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To the Left of Turkey's Delight, there is an overhanging arete that has at least two chopped bolts at the start. Does anyone know what the story is on that route?
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : (06) Gunning for the Buddha (5.12b)
By: Mike Anderson When: Oct 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This may have been 12a at one time, but with the erosion of the pockets and footholds, it is surely solid 12b.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : South Cliffband : Shadowdancer (5.12c/d)
By: Mike Anderson When: Oct 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is not manufactured.
Chipped holds are easy to spot, especially in dark rock like that. Furthermore, chipped holds aren't sharp like those on Shadowdancer.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon : (16) Unnamed Right (5.11a)
By: Mike Anderson When: Oct 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aside from the intermittent moss, I don't think this route is so bad. The holds are generally really good, but they require long, gymnastic moves between them. The crack at the top is a bit funky.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Photo
By: Mike Anderson When: Sep 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo Pete!
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Location: CO : American Alpine Club Online...
By: Mike Anderson When: Mar 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super cool...it's about time.
I noticed you don't even have to be a member of the club to use it!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) (5.11)
By: Mike Anderson When: Mar 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess it's the same, if Wudd... was the first route on the most impressive piece of granite in the world, and if the bolted arete is a manufactured route that was never finished.
Believe it or not, it's actually possible to admit that a bolted variation with great rock, great position and great movement is superior to a pidgeon-infested, guano filled wide crack without instantly bursting into flames for the sin of being a sport climbing sympathizer.
The 70s were almost 40 years ago peopl... more >>
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