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Member Since: Jan 20, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact mike1


Point Rank: # 11,220
Total Points: 20
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 159 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 10 | Posts 147 | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Number 11 in High on Moab guide book

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 190'

UT : Moab Area : ... : Long Canyon North

Dec 29, 2014

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Nob Job (5.10d X)
By: mike1 When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: (Definately a route worth doing if you are working on your slab technique. Little Cottonwood is a great place to develop these skills for application in other locations. I guess we did a lot more slab climbing in the past since I do not think this was anywhere near X rated. Just be creative (lassoo nobs from below to protect the first big run out.)

I did this many years ago and found it to be barely R rated if you as stated above lasso giant chicken head above first flake which allows for topro... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: mike1 When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: Just climbed this yesterday, and it is the best route I have done in The Black, especially if you do the alternate first two pitches to the left! You can easily scope out the alternate start from the last two rappels and get to it by going left from the last rappel to a little stance just below where the hand crack starts. The first pitch is 5.10 hands and the second pitch probably clocks in at about 11c fingers and is one of the best pitches I have every climbed anywhere! No extra gear is neede... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: mike1 When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: Did this guy on 06/14/11. The alternate first two pitches are perfect splitter. Like climbing at The Creek but granite for 200 plus feet. 5.10/5.11+.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo
By: mike1 When: Jul 13, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I was at the Voo this weekend and our posse meet, more like we were interrogated by, this crazy cat named Scarpelli. If you were the one who chopped his route, I would never, ever go back to that crag again. You might even want to quit climbing all together. This dude was pissed ! If he finds you, I believe he will stick both hands (butterflyed) through your ass, grab you by the teeth, and turn you inside out.
just sayin'.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Slot Machine (5.11)
By: mike1 When: Aug 15, 2007

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Comments: If you look at the required gear listed in the old guide book it documents that the crack was smaller. Now to easy. Terrible route. I will never do it again. I am going to be presumptious and speak for everyone else and say they should not do it eithier.


Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: mike1 When: May 15, 2007

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Comments: It also helps to use a belay device that does not promote a soft catch (rope slips easier through it) like an ATC. Look for one with grooves that lock off or go with a figure eight. They tend to lock off on their own (the figure eight).


Location: CO : Splitter Camps - Plug!
By: mike1 When: Jan 30, 2007

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Comments: I spent the last three day at I.C. Meet many good people and shared my ropes as well as shared others ropes. Why would you pay when everyone is willing help a fellow gumby, grom out? Don't let yourself be stepped on by the man! I guarantee you can get free climbing advise and belays if you show respect for the community that has evolved down their. It is a unique place that dictates camaraderie after your first pitch due to the demanding nature of the climbing. It is humbling and comical to disc... more >>


Location: CO : Splitter Camps - Plug!
By: mike1 When: Jan 25, 2007

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Comments:
Bryan Trammell wrote:
Firsthand personal experience, 3 of the first timers at a 2005 Splitter Camp went back on their own in 2006, in a cheap car, and camped out sans generator in tents.

Hey Bryan,
there are no places to park your RV! So would expect tents until the whole place is paved.
"the past is prologue"


Location: CO : Splitter Camps - Plug!
By: mike1 When: Jan 19, 2007

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Comments: Splitter camps will ruin Indian Creek! Here's how. The type of person ( Lets call them Gumby ) who is afraid to try crack climbing on their own 'cause it might be scary and their might be some real adventure involved and prefers to have someone else cook and clean up for them is also the type of person who spends a lot of time telling others how "intense" their adventure was. Next thing you know gumby's friends go to splitter camp so they too are "Aggro". Pretty soon their are not enough spots ... more >>


Location: Todd Skinner dies in Yosemi...
By: mike1 When: Oct 27, 2006

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Comments: Todd Skinner was an amazing pioneer who took a lot of heat for changing views about how to climb and what could be climbed. His vision will be missed. I wish there was something could be done that could console his family.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Fat Cams-- worth it?Climbing Gear Discussionmike1Mar 27, 2015
re: Moab area March 27-31Southern Utah Desertsmike1Mar 11, 2015
re: indian creek jan 9th thru 11thSouthern Utah Desertsmike1Jan 8, 2015
indian creek jan 9th thru 11thSouthern Utah Desertsmike1Jan 6, 2015
re: Weather in Joes Valley for New Years?Southern Utah Desertsmike1Dec 4, 2014
indian creek this weekendSouthern Utah Desertsmike1Dec 4, 2014
Indian creek/moab 6th and 7th decemberUtah Partnersmike1Dec 3, 2014
re: indian creek: 2-6 decemberUtah Partnersmike1Dec 3, 2014
re: What is this world coming to - Part IISouthern Utah Desertsmike1Nov 21, 2014
re: Indian Creek is Cool, but...Southern Utah Desertsmike1May 1, 2014
re: partner(s) for indian creek 4/25-4/28Southern Utah Desertsmike1Apr 22, 2014
re: partner(s) for indian creek 4/25-4/28Southern Utah Desertsmike1Apr 21, 2014
re: Indian creek 04/25th thru 28thUtah Partnersmike1Apr 21, 2014
re: City of rocks april 21 to the 28thUtah Partnersmike1Apr 21, 2014
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