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Member Since: Feb 28, 2008
Last Visit: Nov 23, 2012
Contact Mike Teschke


Point Rank: # 532
Total Points: 1,170
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mike Teschke been climbing?










Contributions


All 258 | Routes 69 | Areas 16 | Photos 44 | Page Improvements | Comments 20 | Posts 3 | Stars 105 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
The girls gearing up at the Lower Red Tail area. T...

The girls gearing up at the Lower Red Tail area. This is the first spot you will come to when approaching from the parking lot.

North America : Canada : ... : Red Tail

Jun 25, 2008

Shot from the bottom of Pixie Corner.

Shot from the bottom of Pixie Corner.

North America : Canada : ... : Pixie Corner (5.8-)

Feb 28, 2008

Climber on Davy Jone's Locker

Climber on Davy Jone's Locker

North America : Canada : ... : Davy Jones' Locker (5.7)

Feb 28, 2008

Zombie Roof photo

Zombie Roof photo

North America : Canada : ... : Wall Area

Feb 28, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Just Blessed (5.10c)
By: Mike Teschke When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: It's the crack to the right of Cliptomaniac... It's pretty obvious though. AWESOME fun!
The McLane guidebook suggest bringing two ropes to lower from the anchors, one 70m rope will work perfectly fine.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Fraser Valley Area : Harrison Bluffs, Harrison H...
By: Mike Teschke When: Sep 23, 2011

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Comments: Nice re-organization of this area! This makes this a good online guide and way easier to find the routes for those of us who have only been there once or not at all. Thanks!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Mike Teschke When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: Such a good pitch!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Europa (5.8 A0)
By: Mike Teschke When: Aug 19, 2011

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Comments: Apparently Kevin McLane published this route in his newest Western Canada guide book. His opinion on the grades differs from mine. Consider giving that a look if 5.8 or 5.9 trad leading is at the limit of your comfort zone or if you think your climbing parnter may struggle seconding 5.8.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Bulletheads East (5.10c)
By: Mike Teschke When: Aug 7, 2011

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Comments: Fantastic route. The first pitch is a direct way to get to the bottom of the rest of the route without hiking and traversing the Slot Machine ledge. The next three pitches are fantastic, I would call pitch#2 5.10c, pitch#3 5.10c, and pitch#4 5.10b. The big offwidth chimney groove is to the left of the last pitch.

I had doubles of everything up to #2 C4 one #3 and a selection of finger sized gear, it was more than enough, only the first 5.9 pitch has bad rope drag p... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Liquid Gold (5.10+)
By: Mike Teschke When: Aug 4, 2011

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Comments: In McLane's new Western Canada Select guide this route has an updated topo and route description.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Xenolith Dance (5.10c)
By: Mike Teschke When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: I just did the first pitch to chain anchors, fantastic climbing.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Fraser Valley Area : ... : Crack Of Dawn (5.11+)
By: Mike Teschke When: Jun 9, 2011

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Comments: Fun finger crack, a couple letter grades harder than its neighbor Wayback Layback.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Lumberland
By: Mike Teschke When: May 14, 2011

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Comments: The Lumberland area has seen a bunch of retro scrubbing, some new anchors and additional route development is underway. Worth checking out.

The Smokebluffs access group has also done a great trail improvement project adding a new trail linking from just past crag X, up past Upper Crag X, Black Zawn Wall, Crystal Wall, Lumberland and joining the main trail above Pixie Corner... This really will bring a lot more traffic past these crags, there are many quality climbs in these areas.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Borderline (5.10d)
By: Mike Teschke When: May 17, 2010

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Comments: I climbed this on Saturday, fantastic. We topped out on Angel's Crest it took about 10 hours car to car.
The finger crack is probably easier than 10d, super fun. The offwidth is a beast. The 10a small roof is great fun.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Birds of Prey (5.10b)
By: Mike Teschke When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: It would be a stretch to get to the anchors below the 10b hand crack in one 70m pitch. We had to do a significant amount of simul-climbing with a 60m rope. The 10b hand crack is great and easily can be combined with the left traverse, there are anchors for a bolted 11a pitch about half way across the traverse. These are not the anchors for Birds of Prey, about 30 feet further along the traverse then up a ramp to the right is a nice chain anchor with a comfy tree that has been turned into a belay... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Great Game (5.10c/d)
By: Mike Teschke When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: Fantastic climb from the start to the finish. The first pitch definitely seemed about a letter grade harder than either of the last two pitches. If I climb it again I would extend the second short pitch as Andy recommends in his route description.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Jungle Warfare (5.10a)
By: Mike Teschke When: Aug 31, 2009

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Comments: Good route. Solid and classic 5.8 cracks for most of the climb.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Slot Machine (5.9)
By: Mike Teschke When: Jun 16, 2009

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Comments: There is a two bolt anchor at the top of the second. Keep the line going straight up the crack and top out on the slabby arete.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Snake (5.9)
By: Mike Teschke When: Jun 8, 2009

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Comments: I climbed this on Saturday, we were the only party on the route all morning, there was a second group about half way up the route by the time we got back to the parking lot. Only a stones throw away on Diedre, there was multiple groups at each of the first couple belay stations... :(
Snake is a great route, and totally a better alternative to Diedre if you are up for a grade harder climb.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : A Cream of White Mice (5.9)
By: Mike Teschke When: May 31, 2009

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Comments: There is a belay station a little low and off to the right of the old belay station at the end of the second pitch. If you use this belay station there are 3-4 bolts direct up the slab that takes you into the traverse. (Maybe 10a slab) The last bolt sorta protects the crux of the traverse so you don't have to stuff any gear in the high crack (still super run out though). This also serves as a direct line up to the 11a bolted direct finish.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : ... : Bout Du Monde (5.10a)
By: Mike Teschke When: May 31, 2009

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Comments: The better of the two 10a routes. This one has a stiff finish if you stick to the direct line once you pull the small roof at he top.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Centerfold (5.10b)
By: Mike Teschke When: May 25, 2009

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Comments: Fun route. Last pitch is fully bolted, though a bit run out, there is a nice small cam placement between the first and second bolts if the potential for landing on your belayer makes you nervous.
Easily rap'd with two 60m ropes in two rappels. I am not sure if a 70m rope would be long enough for the first rappel off the top. But a 60m is definitely way short.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : Rejuvenation (5.9)
By: Mike Teschke When: Apr 20, 2009

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Comments: I climbed this when it was lightly raining... it was slippery :)


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Poster Boy (5.10+)
By: Mike Teschke When: Jul 23, 2008

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Comments: It's a pretty scary clip if you neglect to bring that piece of pro.
But a fun climb with some fantastic views and a very exposed feel as you move up and onto the bolted arete.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Winter climbing destinations?Sport ClimbingMike TeschkeNov 12, 2008
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