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Mike Sofranko


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jan 17, 2005
Contact Mike Sofranko


Point Rank: # 905
Total Points: 650
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
12 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Mike Sofranko been climbing?










Contributions


All (174) | Routes (39) | Areas (6) | Photos (20) | Comments (70) | Posts | Stars (39) | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Eliminator Boulder : Beached Whale (V2+)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Dec 13, 2001

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Comments: Yes, that's the problem I'm talking about. V0- for me, but like I said, it's very height dependent.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hammerhead : Yodeling Moves (5.0)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Dec 13, 2001

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Comments: Quite a heady route for a mere "F3". The last pitch heads straight right with the ground dropping away below - super exposed. Take your time and find the easiest way. If you're downclimbing, definitely take a moment and do what it takes to remember where to head down from the summit.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Amoeboid
By: Mike Sofranko When: Dec 12, 2001

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Comments: Another relatively easy way to reach this rock is to head due north through the trees from the top of Stairway to Heaven.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Eliminator Boulder : Beached Whale (V2+)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Dec 12, 2001

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Comments: It's pretty height dependent - that first move is big and it's a blind slap. I've seen very strong shorter climbers flail - I'm tall and think V0- is rather generous.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : North Arete (5.4)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Dec 4, 2001

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Comments: Another great way to approach this route is to climb the Spy, which is a narrow fin of rock just to the north of the 1st. This rock/route is described elsewhere on the site.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Gorilla (5.10)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Nov 30, 2001

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Comments: If you bury a leg in one of the pods, you can get a great no-hands rest (you won't be pumped at this point, but it's a great pose.) Slightly awkward down low through the wider stuff... Nice route. I think I used a #4 camalot.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Keyhole Flake (5.10)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Nov 30, 2001

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Comments: This is a great varied route. My biggest piece was a #4 Friend, and I think I only brought one, but I was happy to have it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Generic Crack (5.9+)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Nov 29, 2001

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Comments: Bill brings up a good point in his comment above, and also his comment to Supercrack.

New climbers to IC should really take the ratings with a grain of salt. Don't worry about them too much, especially if you are above or below average in size. It's all hand and foot size dependent - ratings can differ by a number grade or more depending on the climber.

For instance, Chocolate Corner is desperate for me. I onsighted it (barely), but I haven't led it successfully since then. That climb ac... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Ice Cream Hangover (5.11b)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Nov 27, 2001

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Comments: Count me among those who don't get a kick out of this route. I thought the first two bolts were rather dangerously placed for a sport route - I was happy to use lockers on them. Then, I followed the big holds (habit of mine), and ended up way left on the arete! Surely off route, no matter, I dogged it anyway.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Back To The Future (5.11b/c)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Nov 27, 2001

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Comments: What a sweet route! Definitely hop on this one and give it a go. Don't let your guard down for the last stretch to the anchor, though.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Freeform (5.12a)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Nov 27, 2001

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Comments: Awesome route! I got denied both times I tried it, but it's still one of my favorite examples of the genre anywhere. Do this route!


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Child Free Zone (aka Parkwa... : Uomama bin Rotten (5.10)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Nov 16, 2001

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Comments: Alan, you just posted a comment to Sphinx Crack in which you said:

"This fine line was blasted into existence with the application of a large quantity of dynamite. While I don't know if the perpetrator "intended" to create any holds, the results are obvious and unmistakeable. It is certainly much easier to climb (free or aid) the crack than the blank wall that existed previously."

--------------------------

Once again you state that intent is irrelevant. Climbingboulder states that the inten... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Nov 12, 2001

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Comments: Well, Anonymous Coward, pro suggestions are relative and subjective by nature (but you knew that). This route has been free soloed, afterall. Myself, I'm totally weak and scared and can never seem to place enough pro to calm my fragile nerves.

For the crux pitch and the thin hands pitch, I protected almost exclusively with .75 camalots and #2 friends. 6x was my quick quess as to what I carried, and this isn't too out of line from what is suggested in other guides. The guys ahead of us... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Nov 9, 2001

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Comments: I'd call the step left crux solid 10+. It's also scrunchy and probably a little harder if you're tall. The thin hands pitch is considerably easier. The boulder problem at the top is sorta funky and probably easier if you're tall.

For the rack, I placed a couple nuts - maybe bring every other one. In addition, 1 set of cams blue TCU to #3 Camalot. Double up on #0.5 Camalot, 6x #0.75 Camalot, and 3x #1 camalots.

The first pitch as described can be broken into 2 short... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Simply Read (5.13d)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Nov 6, 2001

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Comments: Given that my first comment was from the position of devil's advocate:

The AC said it... I have never understood what the big deal is about using glue to reinforce holds. Here in Fort Collins, a pretty large percentage of the classic bouldering is held together by glue. That's a good thing, as far as I'm concerned. Can anyone explain why reinforcing holds is bad? If a hold breaks off, why is it wrong to glue it back on? What are the arguements against these two specific practices?

I also ... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Simply Read (5.13d)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Nov 5, 2001

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Comments: Please change my previous comment to say "Three individuals making sweeping pronouncements." My apologies, Matt.

Just kidding... I of course meant my comments in a constructive sense, I apologize if I came off wrong.

This site is flat out the best climbing site I've seen on the web, major kudos to Myke and Ben. You guys have done pretty well (understatement) and exercised your executive powers far better than I could ever do. I'm sure the site will continue to evolve, for the better.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Simply Read (5.13d)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Nov 5, 2001

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Comments: I agree, Peter. According to the climbingboulder.com Spectrum of Chipping, glued holds are clearly Unacceptable. This route should be marked as chipped. At this point, why are chipped routes still even being added to the database?

I'll register my disappointment right now about how this whole chipping thing is being handled. I hope that Myke and Co. will reconsider. The thing that makes this site so valuable is that it is community oriented, and this new approach runs counter to that. In ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : East Ridge (5.10)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Nov 5, 2001

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Comments: Thanks to everyone for correcting my slightly botched description. I usually try to account for the fact that I'm sorta tall, but I messed up this time.

As has been noted, the third pitch is quite exciting. I would have liked to see the first bolt a little lower (by the other chopped bolts). The traverse right, move up, then traverse left could be dangerous - a shorter climber (leader or follower) will be looking at a nasty pendulum fall while making some difficult moves up to the hand trave... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Oct 31, 2001

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Comments: To provide balance to the two previous comments, I found the third pitch to be harder than the second (I led both a few days ago.) P2 is more sustained in difficulty, but the crux of P3 is more difficult than anything on P2.

Rack: 1 each cams blue TCU to #4 Camalot. Half set of nuts (every other one). Runners and QDs. I found this route to be considerably more difficult than the North Chimney.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Mexican Hat : Bandito Route (C1)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Oct 30, 2001

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Comments: The criteria for the speed record on this route is car to summit, both climbers AND the cooler of beer.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Oct 30, 2001

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Comments: I'd give this route at least a 9-. A 5.8 leader is likely to have issues with two spots in particular.

For the rack, take 1 set of nuts and 1 set of cams plus a few extra hand-sized pieces to make protecting the first pitch more straightforward. A screamer for the bolt on P2 might be wise.

While this route climbs an enourmous chimney, it has virtually no chimney climbing. The P2 OW is short and not that bad. I think a #4 camalot would work there, but I'm not sure as I didn't have one... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden
By: Mike Sofranko When: Oct 24, 2001

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Comments: Myke is actually describing a slightly different approach in his comment. It sounds to me like he is saying to continue further up the Shadow Canyon Trail, then head right and walk directly to the quarry road. This way may indeed be better, but it probably doesn't matter too much. Heck, the first time I tried to get there I ended up thrashing around below the Fatiron, so any way is better than that.

My point is that my step count probably won't match his GPS coordinates.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Eliminator Boulder : Left Eliminator (V5)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Oct 22, 2001

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Comments: Actually, I think this problem is really height dependent. I'm tall, and it's a one move wonder big reach out left. Also, I'm a pretty weak boulderer. V5 is *way* over my limit. I did this problem after a couple tries. I have *never* been able to pull both feet off the ground on a power V5 problem. Granted, I would have died on my first attempt except for the TR.

So the question is, should the difficulty rating of a problem reflect the danger of a problem? I always thought the consensus ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden
By: Mike Sofranko When: Oct 22, 2001

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Comments: Who needs a GPS when you can do it the old fashioned way? Here is the info you've been waiting for: As described above, the Shadow Canyon Trail intersects the Mesa Trail at an obvious water trough. From the Mesa Trail, take between 192 (for taller folks) and 233 (for shorter folks) steps up the Shadow Canyon Trail. Then, head right through the trees and poison ivy to the quarry. Follow my directions from there.

I didn't time us on the way in, but the hike out took exactly 1 hour (very casu... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Face (5.8 R)
By: Mike Sofranko When: Oct 9, 2001

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Comments: RE: The new bolts.

These are documented on the ASCA website, and have been for quite some time. They were apparently placed in 1999 by Darran Bornn.

www.safeclimbing.org/colorado.html

It would be interesting to get the story behind these bolts, but at the same time I am very wary of bringing it to the attention of the authorities.


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