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Member Since: Aug 11, 2004
Last Visit: Mar 23, 2014
Contact mike schlauch


Point Rank: # 2,250
Total Points: 224
Last Year: 86
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
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Where has mike schlauch been climbing?










Contributions


All (71) | Routes (7) | Areas | Photos (29) | Comments (9) | Posts (11) | Stars (13) | Ratings (2)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Hasting's Cutoff (5.10b R)
By: mike schlauch When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: Nice find, Drew! This is a good addition to the area. Similar in nature to p2 of Super Slab direct start. Needs to clean up a little bit, but overall it's a solid route and another good way to start Super Slab or Doub Griffith. Consider bringing a couple extra cams, #2-#3 Camalots.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : After The Gold Rush (5.12a PG13)
By: mike schlauch When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: This route was approved during the 2012 Summer/Fall FHRC session. Here is a link to the application. All bolts are 0.5" x 4.75" stainless steel. A black Alien &/or RP will protect the moves to the first bolt on pitch 2. Thanks to the FHRC for facilitating the new route process. Enjoy.
www.aceeldo.org/fhrc/applications/2012_fall/ATGR.pdf


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Hornet (5.11b PG13)
By: mike schlauch When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: This is a nice addition to the area. Before the first bolt, the climbing is 11a and you can place good small/medium gear. Lowe Balls would be nice to have but not mandatory. The key gear is about 7 feet below the first bolt - a blue alien and two small offset brass nuts just below below that. The second pitch is also very good.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Fallen Angel (5.11+)
By: mike schlauch When: Jun 30, 2012

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Comments: Great route! A lot of hard climbing. It's possible to stay left in the obvious undercling on p1 instead of stepping right into the finger crack. Consider roping up for the exposed bouldery traverse approach, or climb the corner directly below p1 at 5.7 or so. Do a route on the Black Wall and then walk over here for a full day.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Espresso (5.11a)
By: mike schlauch When: Jul 24, 2008

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Comments: P1 - 30 meters to a ledge on the right. 5.10.
P2 - 55 meters. Solid 5.11. Traversed left from belay on some xenolithes to a 5.9 crack and then back right into the arching crack. A bit of flakey / crumbly rock here. Bats too. After the crack, keep angling left to the base of the obvious left facing corner. Might get better after alot of ascents, but right now this pitch is kinda nasty.
P3 - 45 meters. Some spicey, crumbly 5.10 climbing off the belay into a pretty good, 5.10, left-facing co... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : The Notch Couloir (Mod. Snow)
By: mike schlauch When: Jun 6, 2008

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Comments: Skied the notch on May 30 in great conditions. Check out a trip report here:

www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124346


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cary Granite (5.11c)
By: mike schlauch When: Jul 15, 2006

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Comments: This is a nice alpine outing that doesn't seem to get done very much judging by the super sharp, clean cracks. Expect a little loose rock here and there, but overall the quality is good. Pitch 1 & 2 combine for a great long 5.11 pitch with ~20 ft of simul climbing. P3 is relatively short, ~ 80 ft, but it takes a lot of cams 1.5" - 4.5", double 2.5" - 4". P4 & 5 also combine easily into one 5.10- pitch. Double ropes are nice to have as you could practically TR the dicey traverse. Bring a few... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Road Warrior (5.10)
By: mike schlauch When: Aug 11, 2004

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Comments: This is an awesome line - a must do if you're into off-widths. Harder than Crack of Fear and the Maelstrom mainly because of the altitude and length. The crux pitch does take some good smaller gear (small to medium nuts & small aliens) at the pegmatite roof, but then gets runout unless you have more than one #6 - which will usually be tipped out.

The second set of rap anchors along the rim seemed like the way to go - two 60m raps put you on a large ledge from which you can combine p1 & ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Desert Solitaire (5.11a C1)
By: mike schlauch When: Mar 11, 2004

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Comments: Chip Ruckgaber and I freed this route in Feb 2000. It involved some hard crimping on friable flakes that may or may not still be there. At the time it felt like Eldo 5.11d, but that will depend on what holds are still available. The free line went left initially past the first bolt, then crossed back to the right.

cheersmike schlauch