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Member Since: Jul 9, 2009
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 5,567
Total Points: 63
Last Year: 4
Last 30 Days: 0
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mike Rowley been climbing?










Contributions


All 254 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvments | Comments 33 | Posts 51 | Stars 165 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - North : Beware of Nesting Egos (5.11b PG13)
By: Mike Rowley When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: Great climb! One of my favorite City routes to date. I felt like the gear was pretty sketch after the flake, but before the first bolt, but the climbing is not too hard there. Fun, Memorable movement, really varied. Highly recommended.


Location: OR : Smith Rock
By: Mike Rowley When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: It would be no problem at all to find people to climb with. Its gonna be really hot in July, but you can climb in the shade and find decent temps. The Bivy is a great place to find partners.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Llama Wall : American Nirvana (5.11c)
By: Mike Rowley When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: This route is actually the 2nd bolt line to the RIGHT of blackened. Deceivingly steep and pumpy. Hard to read crux on an onsite, but amazing incut pockets to suss out the sequence from! I def set up camp while looking for my sequence.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Sunshine Dihedral (5.11d PG13)
By: Mike Rowley When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: As intimidating as the line is, I would not say pg-13 or R. As others have said, gear isn't the best down low but its there. Once you get above the start the entire climb eats small offset nuts. I only placed 3-4 cams the whole route but was able to place nuts anywhere I wanted to. I wasn't concerned about any of the nuts pulling. Its all there, with bomber gear! Get on it!


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : Golden Stairs (5.11c)
By: Mike Rowley When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: This route is SUPER classic. Possibly the best 5.11 route that I have done. Absolutely phenomenal! Steep, pumpy, engaging.... Get on this beast! Rest up at the 4th bolt, and try to sprint to the chains!


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake
By: Mike Rowley When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: I am working in T or C for a month or two and would REALLY be stoked to check this area out. Is there anyone out there who would be willing to go with me??? I promise I know how to belay, and lead haha. If anyone can swing this, please let me know! I have a house in T or C we can stay in if its too windy to camp.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : 30 Seconds Over Potash (5.8)
By: Mike Rowley When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: Does anyone know what the bolted line to the right of 30 seconds is?? It felt really hard.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Dreamin' (5.12a)
By: Mike Rowley When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: I second what Palo said back in 06...This would get constant traffic if it wasnt so scary to 11+ and 12- climbers!! Falling between the 4th and 5th bolt could result in an ugly fall, and a fall going to the 2nd bolt on the slab could be an ankle breaker. Still, an unbelievable climb and well worth being a little scared.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monument Area : Big Ben Tower : Alpen Symphony (5.12a)
By: Mike Rowley When: Feb 21, 2013

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Comments: Great write up Max! Pitch two was BURLY, and very awkward movement. This entire climb overhangs just a little, but every belay is at a good to great stance! Super fun! Cant wait to get back on it next season.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : West Ship River Face : Caffeine Free (5.10c)
By: Mike Rowley When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: This climb is DEF not .10c. It was listed as .10a in the original Smith Book, but got upgraded to .10b in the new Smith Book. This was a mistake. Caffeine Free is 5.10a.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : West Ship River Face : Solar (5.9)
By: Mike Rowley When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: You can also climb this by climbing Caffeine Free and linking directly into Solar. Climb up and clip the first bolt of the extension of Caffeine Free, then step right into the thin crack. Do it all in one pitch!


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Rednekk Justus (5.10+) : Photo
By: Mike Rowley When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: Vile on every level?? Selfish? Seems like a good idea to me... especially for an area that does not have a guidebook currently in print. Maybe it's a bit selfish to go into the canyon "armed with a crowbar and a sledge hammer." That also seems a bit more destructive than helpful. Just cuz you know the routes doesn't mean that everyone else does.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Hijinx in the Desert (5.11)
By: Mike Rowley When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: There is no way this thing is 11-. I would say 11+ seems like a decent rating. Makes sense if some stuff broke off it. Took a good whipper trying to pull the roof section. BURLY!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky
By: Mike Rowley When: Oct 28, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone know if this road is passable in a 2WD vehicle? Any road condition reports would be super helpful. Thanks.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Crossfire (5.12a/b)
By: Mike Rowley When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: This climb is fun-believable. Amazing climbing on great rock. There is one small flake up high that is gonna come off one of these days, but it shouldnt affect too much. There is DEF 35ft fall potential up high... But they are safe, fun, and super soft. Seems like consensus is .12b on this one.


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Space Mission (5.11)
By: Mike Rowley When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: I love that this is listed as .12- in the original guidebook! I would say .11+ feels about right. The stemming at the start is hard, and there are no real rests until you are a few feet below the chains. Great route tho!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels : The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow : Old Punks on Crack (5.10-)
By: Mike Rowley When: May 16, 2012

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Comments: Hmmm... Maybe I am spoiled when it comes to crack climbing, but there was absolutely nothing splitter about this thing. I def agree with the start being the most enjoyable part of the route. If you are uncomfortable with the high bolt, you could get a bomber med size nut in a few feet below the bolt. Crack takes pretty decent pro, but is by no means "splitter." I wouldnt recommend it too highly... unless, like me you are desperate to climb a crack at Gilman. Great way to set up a TR on Hostile T... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Mountain Momma (5.10c)
By: Mike Rowley When: Apr 22, 2012

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Comments: As of 4/21/12 There was dry ground in more exposed areas, but there was still lots of snow in the trees... about waist deep. Also, the Torreon approach directions led me on a wild goose chase. This could be because I am not familiar with the Sandias, or that I could not see the "trails" that were mentioned due to snow. Upon seeing a topo of the area in the NM Rock Climbs book, the approach directions took me in the complete wrong direction. It appears it would be much easier to approach Torreon ... more >>


Location: NM
By: Mike Rowley When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: I am looking for climbing partners in NM! Specifically the ABQ area, but I plan on trying to climb all over the state. I am hoping to be in NM from early to late april and will have 3-4 free days a week to climb. I dont know ANY climbers in NM so if you wanna climb let me know!! I lead .11+/.12- sport and trad. I have enough gear to get up anything in NM for sure. Hope to get some responses and partners!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Karot Tots (5.11b)
By: Mike Rowley When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: This thing does not see much traffic due to the traversing nature of the climb... The moves getting to the bolt arent too bad. Just find those good feet!!! The feet are tough to spot... Unlike the popular climbs at Smith, there is no black rubber, OR tickmarks! Excellent line.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Four Horsemen : John Galt Line (5.11a/b)
By: Mike Rowley When: Mar 8, 2012

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Comments: Thankfully it was upgraded... basing ANY 5.10 grade off Hemp Liberation would be a HUGE sandbag!! That thing is ridiculously hard for a "5.10"


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Four Horsemen : Calamity Jam (5.10c)
By: Mike Rowley When: Mar 8, 2012

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Comments: This thing is SO fun!! The fixed wire in the crux is starting to look a little manky... Scary lead, but so rewarding!!


Location: Toby Butterfield : Tobies : Photo
By: Mike Rowley When: Feb 22, 2012

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Comments: Great climb. Quite a sandbag at .10b....


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Golgotha (5.11b PG13)
By: Mike Rowley When: Feb 20, 2012

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Comments: Gear on this good if you are comfortable with small gear. I think I only used 1 or 2 cams. Lots of small but bomber nuts! The bolts have not been replaced as of 2/12, but they will hold. I tested the top bolt from the anchors :-(


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Heresy (5.11c)
By: Mike Rowley When: Feb 15, 2012

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Comments: IF you can do it, the dyno is the way to go by far. Adds a GREAT ending without the holds to the left. Set the feet WAY higher than you think you need to, and JUMP!! Just make sure to really stare at that hold, or youre gonna miss! Good luck.


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