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Member Since: Jul 15, 2004
Last Visit: Jul 5, 2013
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Point Rank: # 3,680
Total Points: 121
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 123 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts 3 | Stars 77 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall : Unknown Flake (5.10 PG13)
By: Mike Munger When: Oct 21, 2011

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Comments: Climb it straight on for a little more of a challenge (11a?) and good visualization of your gear placements. The climber who lead this pitch just before me sewed it up but all of his placements were tipped out and he would have decked if he had fallen. Caveat Emptor


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall : Finger Fun (5.10)
By: Mike Munger When: Oct 21, 2011

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Comments: The tips crack on the upper half of the first pitch is quite enjoyable but when combine with the loose rock and poor protection between the two drilled pins on the first half I can only give it a couple of stars and I didn't do the second pitch either so I can't comment on it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : GoldenEye (5.10+)
By: Mike Munger When: Oct 23, 2008

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Comments: Excellent route but if the lie back at the top is too burly you can stem to the crack on the right.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Razor's Edge (5.10 PG13)
By: Mike Munger When: Jul 15, 2008

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Comments: This route description is inaccurate and difficult to follow at best. It will put you on broken low angle terrain right of the edge toward the end of P3. It is possible to traverse back left to the edge from here but you only get one pitch before you are forced back onto the SE Ridge at the 'Stepped Roofs'.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Waiting For Columbus (5.10c)
By: Mike Munger When: Oct 25, 2007

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Comments: Just did this route again. This was a pretty heady lead before the bolts were placed and though it was possible to get some gear in, with the addition of the bolts it is quite safe now.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Mike Munger When: Sep 8, 2007

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Comments: The fixed cams on pitch one and two have been removed and someone put a pin (Lost Arrow) in the lower part of the fourth pitch.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : In the Groove (5.10b)
By: Mike Munger When: Aug 14, 2007

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Comments: I thought this was a good route. It's not what you think when you look at it from the ground, but it yields to technique and finesse without being too strenuous.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: Mike Munger When: Aug 1, 2007

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Comments: The Alien in the P2 roof has been removed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Deersquatch (5.11c R)
By: Mike Munger When: Jun 19, 2007

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Comments: It would be nice to have a better idea where this variation goes. There is a variation that was lead by John Matson in the 80's that uses the first piece of pro on the first pitch of Athlete's Feat but instead of mantling by the second bolt, the line traverses left below the headwall and up to the first pitch anchors of Athlete's Feat from below. By all accounts it is pretty run out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: Mike Munger When: Jun 3, 2007

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Comments: In '77, as I recall, the bashie below the fixed pin wasn't there and you had to place your own gear. Instead of adding a bolt, I think the bashie with its huge quick links should be removed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Magic Bus (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Mike Munger When: May 23, 2007

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Comments: This route was actually named Magic Bus initially and should be called that.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Coach's Demise (5.9+)
By: Mike Munger When: May 21, 2007

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Comments: Tried this route today and I have to agree on the Bomb rating, mainly because of the lack of pro and the large detached flake. Also it may very well be closer to an 'x', at least the way we did it. On lead I got forced left from the top of the flake (5.9) because of the lack of pro, in my opinion, the flake will come off if you fall on the nuts or cams you place behind it. Above that there is no pro till you get to the third pin if you go right from the top of the flake (.10). If you go stra... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psycho Pigeon (5.11a)
By: Mike Munger When: May 20, 2007

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Comments: I agree with Josh. You can place a small TCU to back up the bolts at the anchor at the top of the first pitch, and it is possible to place an RP before the first bolt on the second pitch. So, you are not totally run out, but it would be nice if that 1/4" button head was replaced as it is essentially the only thing you have when you start the traverse to the arete, and it would be a bad fall if it broke.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Three Old Farts Young at He... (5.10 R)
By: Mike Munger When: May 20, 2007

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Comments: There is a largish block just above the roof on pitch two that is threatening to come off. I pulled on it and some gravel came out from behind it. If you are belaying at the base of the crack make sure that your belayer is off to the side as it could do some damage when it gets loose.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: Mike Munger When: May 18, 2007

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Comments: Just FYI; There is a 5.10'ish rising traverse that starts from the first bolt on the third pitch and joins Super Slab as it turns the roof.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: Mike Munger When: May 12, 2007

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Comments: Bolting this pitch would be a travesty. There is more than enough good gear without the pin. You do need to know how to place gear though or you will find yourself wishing you were back on a sport climb. Also, rope drag can be eliminated entirely if you belay at the lip of the the roof. You have to build your own anchor to do that though so if you need two bolts and chains to belay, stay away or don't complain about the rope drag.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : West Dihedral (5.4)
By: Mike Munger When: May 12, 2007

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Comments: The fixed cam at the top of the corner has been removed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Cold Turkey (5.9+)
By: Mike Munger When: May 12, 2007

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Comments: Good quality climbing in the crux corner. The rap rings weren't there May 2007 but it's easy to walk off left from the next ledge up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Bloke On The Side (5.9+ R)
By: Mike Munger When: May 11, 2007

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Comments: I have to disagree with your evaluation of the protection on the first pitch as I found the protection to be adequate and the pitch well protected.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Fuzz (5.10 PG13)
By: Mike Munger When: May 1, 2007

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Comments: Excellent warm-up. My 70m was a little short when I didn't clean the gear on the way down. Straight line to the anchors a 70 is fine.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Directissima (5.10b)
By: Mike Munger When: Aug 31, 2006

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Comments: Aug 30, 06 Excellent route with quality climbing from bottom to top. I would probably avoid the first jungle pitch and do one of the harder (cleaner) variations to the left. Both fixed #4 cams are still in place on pitch three and can either be threaded with spectra or slung like a chockstone. There are numerous bolts on this route, presumably from the first ascent in 1960, that are essentially worthless and should be pulled and or replaced. Most of the hangers are the old Gerry 'pry-... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Blackwalk (5.10b/c R)
By: Mike Munger When: Nov 17, 2004

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Comments: Gear; There is a placement for a 0 or 00 TCU that is bomber at the stance above the crux (second bolt). You can also get a purple camalot in a crack 15 feet above this, at which point it is easy to move right to easier ground or left and then up to the double pins below the anchor.Variation; It is also possible to traverse straight left from the second bolt on some slopers to bypass the original crux. This has the advantage of keeping the bolt high when you are doing the ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Pit Bull Terror (5.11)
By: Mike Munger When: Oct 21, 2004

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Comments: Two each of purple, green, red and yellow camalots, plus several blue camalots for the upper wider section will give ample pro. A single 70 m rope is long enough to lower off with.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Mike Munger When: Oct 6, 2004

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Comments: There are also chain anchors with 2 or 3 bolts at most of the belay stations which make it possible to descend the route in three raps from the summit. First rap goes directly to the ledge at the top of The Ear with one rope doubled. Second rap is 155 ft free to the ledge at the end of the traverse pitch. Third rap is 120 ft to the ground. As convienient as this is, it also changes the character of the route by making it a lot less committing.Now it is possible to retreat from anywhere on th... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Mike Munger When: Oct 4, 2004

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Comments: Just did Primrose on 10-03-04 and the ear had been rebolted. There are 5 bolts and two drilled pins now. With the last two bolts above where the old ring pin was the run out has been eliminated. No need to bring any big gear, just draws for the ear. It's sport climbing in the desert. Kind of changes the character of the route, takes the adventure out of it. Now the question is, should this have been changed into a sport pitch and if so then why not just bolt all the cracks in Indian creek ... more >>


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