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Me falling after dorking the crux of Pet Sh.op Boys


Member Since: Oct 22, 2007
Last Visit: Jun 12, 2014
Contact mike moore


Point Rank: # 1,637
Total Points: 356
Last Year: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has mike moore been climbing?










Contributions


All 279 | Routes 30 | Areas 2 | Photos 1 | Page Improvments | Comments 21 | Posts 7 | Stars 192 | Ratings 26

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sonic Youth Cliff : Everybodys Slave (5.11d)
By: mike moore When: Dec 29, 2013

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Comments: This is an overlooked gem of a 5.11. The second half alone makes this route worth climbing. Quite different from Sonic Youth and fun to run a few laps on.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sonic Youth Cliff : Sonic Youth (5.11b/c)
By: mike moore When: Dec 29, 2013

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Comments: I replaced the 4th bolt that is referred to in the previous comment. Please excuse the open hole from the old bolt. I had no epoxy to patch it. The bolt used for replacement is a 1/2" x 3 3/4" powers bolt and a Fixe hanger. I replaced it sometime in Nov., 2013.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Robber's Roost : Bubblicious (5.11d) : Photo
By: mike moore When: May 20, 2012

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Comments: Hey John, I could be wrong (as I frequently am) but the Bubbilicious anchors are up and right a bit, at the base of the brown rock in the pic. When Chris geis bolted the route he meant for people to climb on crimps to the right of the anchors for the 5.10. However, I believe many people, including myself, tend to climb to the anchors you identify then do the moves above to get to the 11d anchors. Again, I could be very incorrect here.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Megatonic (5.12)
By: mike moore When: Mar 23, 2012

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Comments: While Aimee Rose is not off for worst route on the left side of the corridor, consider the quality of routes on the left side of the corridor. They are all, for the most part, amazing routes. This route, while chossy, climbs really well. It is somewhat sustained and worth doing. Aimee Rose is also correct about the top (last bolt to the anchor) being a mess; I believe she and others have "cleaned" that part of the route (thanks). While I disagree with bomb status, Megatonic needs ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Churning in the Dirt (5.12b)
By: mike moore When: Mar 9, 2012

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Comments: As of today (3/9/2012) this route has its own anchors, two Mussy hooks. It no longer needs to share anchors with sound of power.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Oasis : Snack Crack (5.11d)
By: mike moore When: Feb 4, 2012

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Comments: Crux off the deck to more incut holds at the second bolt. After this, large holds to the anchor. Worthwhile.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Oasis : My Thai (5.12a)
By: mike moore When: Feb 4, 2012

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Comments: As Gary says above, steeper and juggier than Casino. Another gimme for the 12a grade. However, I believed this route to be more fun than Casino. The hardest moves are up to the second bolt, then incut plates and finger buckets to the anchor. Worthwhile.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Oasis : Casino (5.12a)
By: mike moore When: Feb 4, 2012

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Comments: A very fun route, although quite a gimme for the 12a grade. Casino and its nieghbor, My Thai, are worth the hike up to the Oasis.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : The Big Short (5.8)
By: mike moore When: Jan 2, 2012

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Comments: This route is left of Skid Mark. I would never have even thought to put bolts in this section of rock, but Mike had a different vision. It turns out that this route is a thoughtful, fun low grade climb. Good work Mike.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : The Last Drag (5.10a)
By: mike moore When: Jan 2, 2012

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Comments: Great route with great movement. My favorite of Mike's new routes in this section of the wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Pockets of Dirt (5.11d)
By: mike moore When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: I was on this recently and believe that in comparison to its' neighbor to the right, this route is significantly easier. I give Helltown 11c/d and Pockets of Dirt 11a.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Nipple Fish (5.11+)
By: mike moore When: Aug 2, 2011

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Comments: The way I originally sent this route was to come from the left via a nice sized jug under the left end of the scoop/lip. That hold is now gone. Coming from the right is probably the same difficulty, just more reachy. I would call this solid 12b/c, not 5.13 as I have heard some people suggest over the last season. After the start and upon reaching the first bolt, the route eases significantly.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag
By: mike moore When: Dec 4, 2009

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Comments: On Wed., 12/2/2009, I replaced a missing bolt on a 5.10 at the Cannibal crag. I do not remember the route name, but it is on the backside and has a large chalked "X" written at the base of the route. It was the third bolt that was replaced.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall
By: mike moore When: Nov 8, 2009

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Comments: As of 11/7/09, most of the routes on the right portion of the cliff have had anchor replacement/additions. Native Son has new anchors. Good Morning (The Burrito) has its' own anchors and no longer shares with Pain Check. Pain Check now has its' own anchors. Rise and Whine and The Healer now have their own anchors and no longer share chains. The Healer has also had ALL bolts replaced.

Shape of Things and Where Egos Dare have not seen updates as I ran out of hardware. I will replace these a... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Spanky Spangler (5.10)
By: mike moore When: Oct 24, 2009

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Comments: A fun route! Nice job Michelle and Richard. Don't add another bolt, it is not needed.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Skid Mark (5.10a)
By: mike moore When: Oct 21, 2009

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Comments: I agree with O'Brien. Travis found a gem of a route - really cool holds and movement. 5.9 is right on. A great route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Nightmare on Crude Street (5.10d)
By: mike moore When: Sep 12, 2009

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Comments: As of Sept. 13, 2009, this route has seen some bolt replacement. The 3rd, 4th, and 5th bolts, which were spinners and had rusted, have been repleced with 1/2 x 6 in. bolts and FIXE hangers. The anchors, which were loose (one was stripped) and had chain links that were wearning thin due to excessive top-roping and lowering, have also been replaced. All hardware is courtesy of the A.R.I.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : The CEL (5.9)
By: mike moore When: Sep 12, 2009

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Comments: As of today, Sept. 12, 2009, this route has had the first bolt (previously missing), the 5th bolt (previously missing), and the 6th bolt (completely stripped) replaced. The anchors, which were loose, have also been tightened. All equipment was courtesy of the A.R.I.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Iron Man Wall : Iron Maiden (5.11)
By: mike moore When: Aug 2, 2009

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Comments: Nice job Michael Kimm! Great Route!!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Hips Don't Lie (aka Punch D... (5.11b/c)
By: mike moore When: Dec 23, 2007

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Comments: I bolted this around the same time as the other two routes I put up in the corridor. Jerry named it "Punch Drunk" in the new guide for some reason. I originally rated this 11a, not the route to the right (which I rated 10c). I guess people have stated that the line now seems a bit harder due to a few broken holds. I hope it is enjoyable and people that climb on it have fun, regardless of the grade. Thanks!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Red Storm Rising (5.11b)
By: mike moore When: Nov 22, 2007

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Comments: Just a note - the 4th bolt is missing a hanger on this climb and I had to tighten bolts by hand while climbing the line to the left of this on. Might be time to re-bolt this cliff. I will be more than happy to do it. Anyone want to help?