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Member Since: Dec 12, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Mike McL


Point Rank: # 560
Total Points: 1,079
Last Year: 84
Last 30 Days: 36
297 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mike McL been climbing?










Contributions


All 698 | Routes 6 | Areas 2 | Photos 193 | Page Improvements | Comments 24 | Posts 91 | Stars 380 | Ratings 2

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Psychedelic Tree (5.9)
By: Mike McL When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: A really nice route that protects well. Climbs better than it looks. The first pitch is long and sustained with plenty of interesting stemming. We took the roof finish to P2 and it was pretty wild.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : East Face : Black Dihedral (5.10b)
By: Mike McL When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: As others have said, emphasis on small gear for this one. This climb eats up nuts, especially offsets. I placed 1 blue camalot and 1 green camalot, and everything else was smaller. Tiny cams are useful. Of course, YMMV.

Really cool climb requiring a variety of techniques. I found it to be very well protected.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Crystal Springs Canyon : Wood Cutters Wall : Right Branch (5.8)
By: Mike McL When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: Bring 2 #4s for the fists section if you want to sew it up


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Endgame (5.10a)
By: Mike McL When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: Like others have said, an excellent route.

Regarding the gear thing, I thought the only piece I was really happy to have was a .75 (green) camalot on pitch 3. I placed 2 nuts mainly because I could, but the runout sections are very easy on pitches 1 and 2. Of course YMMV, but consider a green camalot for P3 if 5.10 is near your limit.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : Finger of Fate : Open Book (5.8)
By: Mike McL When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: The corner can be done in 2 pitches with a 70 m rope. 1st pitch ends at the small ledge just right of the roof. 2nd pitch goes all the way to the big ledge. If done this way, 2 #4 camalots can be useful if you want to sew up the 2 short, wider sections on P1.

Stellar climb.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Eichorn's Pinnacle : West Pillar (5.9)
By: Mike McL When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: I found doubles of hand sized cams (green-blue camalots) useful for the standard route. 2 #4s are helpful as well if you want to sew it up. Of course, YMMV.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Direct Northwest Face (5.10c)
By: Mike McL When: Jun 28, 2012

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Comments: Great route. 3 nice pitches of splitter cracks.

The 5.9 slab move near the top is a bit heads up. I found that a orange/red mastercam offset protects the move very well in a pin scar just to the right of the move. It takes the ledge fall potential out of the scenario. So if you've got one, it's worth bringing.

Offset nuts aren't mandatory, but they work great on the pinscars on P1. Same goes for offset cams.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : Books Area : Cat Scratch Fever (5.10a)
By: Mike McL When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: This is a pretty good route, certainly worth doing. A fairly clean dihedral with some fun jamming and laybacking. It takes good gear, and you can get in some solid pieces before the cruxes. Bring some extra finger sized cams.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : Sun Wall Area : Sun Wall Middle (5.10b)
By: Mike McL When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: Nice route. Mostly thin hands and hands with a short but awkward wide pod at the beginning.

2 #4s would not go unused but aren't absolutely necessary. I'd bring at least 1. Doubles of fingers to hands is nice to have if you want to sew it up.

I'm not sure what the 'correct' way to go at the top is. After pulling the roof through the bombay section, there's one more tricky thin hands section then you get to a nice stance. I checked it out straight up from here but the rock qualit... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Touch and Go (5.9)
By: Mike McL When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Great route if done to Lizard Ledge.

The P1 flare on the right side of the Rat's Tooth is very nice. Somewhat strenuous with few rests. Fortunately that hand crack in the back makes it moderate. Take extra #2 and #3 camalots if you want to sew if up. 3 of each would not go unused. We had 3 #2s and 2 #3s and used them all. Climb through a roof, move left, and belay at bolts. These bolts are below Hungover Hangover.

Alternately you could climb the middle of the... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Creek Cliff : Between Two Worlds (5.10b)
By: Mike McL When: Aug 23, 2011

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Comments: Nice climb. Bring some small nuts to protect the crux.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Mt Stuart : Upper North Ridge w/Great G... (5.9)
By: Mike McL When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Excellent route! We did it late this July in a heavy snow year. We camped near Ingalls Lake to get a head start on the approach. Know that if you do this, you have about a 4 mile hike that gains 1600 feet of elevation to get back to camp from the base of the Cascadian Couloir. If you do a car shuttle, an approach from the Mountaineers Creek trailhead with a descent down the Cascadian and over Long's Pass is a good idea. Of course if you do this you have to carry over all of your gear. By c... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Crackula (5.9)
By: Mike McL When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Bring a 4 inch cam for the top


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Prusik Peak : Stanley-Burgner Route (5.9+ PG13)
By: Mike McL When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: If leading near your limit a 4 inch piece is very useful on the first 5.8 pitch (the left variation) as well as the final pitch.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Six Star Wall : Six Star Crack (5.13-) : Photo
By: Mike McL When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: great perspective


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : West Wall : April Fools (5.9)
By: Mike McL When: Apr 29, 2011

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Comments: Am I crazy or is this on the West Wall? It's to the right of Hospital Corner.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : Photo
By: Mike McL When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: Cool light...nice shot.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : Photo
By: Mike McL When: Feb 14, 2010

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Comments: wow...great work


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: Mike McL When: Jul 25, 2009

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Comments: Pitch 2 is great. Slab, hand crack, chimney, and interesting face climbing.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Dragontail Peak : Serpentine Ridge (5.8+)
By: Mike McL When: Jul 1, 2009

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Comments: As far as snow gear, we did it in late June without crampons. That time of year there is very little actual snow climbing on the approach. Most of it is on rocks with short stretches of snow. We were able to get by in the morning without crampons, but the snow was very hard. If you descend in the afternoon (which most will do) the snow is soft and we didn't need crampons. An ice axe was nice to have. We brought boots but it could be done in approach shoes with an axe.

As far as a rack, I s... more >>


Location: ME : Katahdin : Photo
By: Mike McL When: Nov 13, 2008

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Comments: I'm cold just looking at this photo


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Lone Star (5.11) : Photo
By: Mike McL When: Sep 19, 2008

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Comments: Only one route would dare give me the raspberry...Lone Star!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Photo
By: Mike McL When: May 11, 2008

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Comments: Nice shot. Too bad you caught that plant in the top right corner.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Whale Dome : Moby Dick (5.8)
By: Mike McL When: Dec 16, 2007

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Comments: I really enjoyed this climb. Not dangerous but runout enough to keep it interesting. I placed pro whenever I could and still didn't manage to need more than 1 set of nuts and a set of cams from fingers-hands. Bring lots of slings for all the heads. I brought a #3 and #4 camalot and managed to use them both at least once. I was happy to have them, especially pitch 2 when the #4 camalot ended a fairly long runout when I placed it in a narrower portion of the big overlap. Th... more >>