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Member Since: Aug 25, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Mike Humphries


Point Rank: # 6,350
Total Points: 51
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mike Humphries been climbing?










Contributions


All 486 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts 8 | Stars 364 | Ratings 94
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Statement in You

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 30'

CO : Gunnison : ... : Tiger Wall

Nov 30, 2013

Pussy Foot

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (3)

Sport, 1 pitch, 30'

CO : Gunnison : ... : Tiger Wall

Nov 26, 2012

Shamrock

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 45'

CO : Gunnison : ... : North Bank Middle

May 29, 2012

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Pulled this carabiner, and a few others that resemble it, off of sooper kreem last time I was out there. The edge in the rope groove was so sharp it resembled a kitchen kife. Careful out there on popular routes, fixed draws wear quickly!

Pulled this carabiner, and a few others that resemble it, off of sooper kreem last time I was out there. The edge in the rope groove was so sharp it resembled a kitchen kife. Careful out there on popu

CO : Flatirons : ... : Comment

Aug 14, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : A Stirring of Air (5.9)
By: Mike Humphries When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Perhaps I was climbing this thing wrong, but I found the start to be quite hard. I had to bear down hard on a small, incut crimp to get established above the roof on poor, sloping, and polished feet. Tough for easy 5.10, that move alone the way I did it is easily 5.11.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Jurassic Park (5.13)
By: Mike Humphries When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: It's the Flatirons "Chain Gang" equivalent. I dig it!!!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock
By: Mike Humphries When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: We ran into one baby rattler last night, I noticed a buzzing sound, stopped moving, and he was a foot or two from me. Be careful and aware of the snakes at this cliff.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sanctuary : Genesis (5.12a)
By: Mike Humphries When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: This is really an incredible route. The climbing through the undercut arete/prow is gymnastic, aesthetic, and simply smile producing!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : $00pr kr33m (5.13-)
By: Mike Humphries When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: I've added steel clipping biners to the top three draws on this route. Bolts at the undercling crux, the tension boulder problem above, and the "victory whip" bolt just shy of the anchors sport these biners. They should last significantly longer than the aluminum hardwear that has been getting grooved and sharp on this route quite quickly. Enjoy!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Stiff Upper Lip (5.12a)
By: Mike Humphries When: Mar 14, 2013

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Comments: IMHO, and that's all it is since I hold the route equippers of CCC like Alan Nelson in the highest regard, this is the worst route I have been on in the canyon. Choss, bat shit, and filth are the names of the game on this one.

Also, the last bolt that is right smack in the middle of the dirt, bat shit mess that is sprayed on the wall, needs some attention as it's partially hanging out of the wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : $00pr kr33m (5.13-)
By: Mike Humphries When: Aug 14, 2012

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Comments:
Pulled this carabiner, and a few others that resemble it, off of sooper kreem last time I was out there. The edge in the rope groove was so sharp it resembled a kitchen kife. Careful out there on popular routes, fixed draws wear quickly!
Pulled this carabiner, and a few others that resemble it, off of sooper kreem last time I was out there. The edge in the rope groove was so sharp it resembled a kitchen kife. Careful out there on popular routes, fixed draws wear quickly!



Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Macho Borracho (5.12)
By: Mike Humphries When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this route yesterday and found that both ends of our 70m rope easily reached the ground, probably with 20ft to spare, when using the lefthand 5.10 1st pitch of Brennivin to approach. Perhaps this won't work when approaching from 100 Proof (which is a bit further left), but if Macho Borracho is your goal, a direct approach should deposit you safely on the ground when using a 70m cord. What I can't comment on, as of yet, is the rope drag.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : $00pr kr33m (5.13-)
By: Mike Humphries When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Many of the fixed clipping biners on this route are getting worn and becoming sharp. I replaced the draw at the upper crux, added a fresh clipping biner to the draw at the lower, punchy, undercling crux, and flipped the draw on the last bolt (was surpisingly worn, possibly from victory whips...). Others should probably be replaced as well. Overall, I removed 1 draw and 1 biner from the route, and I'd be happy to return them to their owner even though they are thoroughly trashed.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Y2K (5.12c)
By: Mike Humphries When: Apr 18, 2012

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Comments: Loved this route. the position is killer, the 4 move crux (V6ish) is aesthetic, tension climbing on crimps and slippery feet, and the final awkward 5.11 move to reach the anchors tops it off. Clip the right bolts and rope drag will not be a problem, I didn't back clean any.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Presto (5.12c)
By: Mike Humphries When: Jun 8, 2011

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Comments: Double like!

Much, much thanks for replacing that bolt! Looking forward to getting on the route again.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice
By: Mike Humphries When: Mar 20, 2011

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Comments: Pat Peddy and myself added a new fixed line to the ledge system at the Wall of Justice today. We didn't have time to cut the old one, so feel free to do so if you have a knife and are out at the cliff. We were considering leaving it as added security, even though it's pretty ratty, until we realized it makes it more difficult to clip directly into the bolted belays.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Hanging Judge (5.11c)
By: Mike Humphries When: Mar 15, 2011

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Comments: I replaced the clipping biner at the 2nd bolt this past weekend. The anchor biners will need to be replaced in the near future. Also, the dogbone on the final draw is pretty worn. Someone added an additional draw to back it up, but the ratty one needs to be removed. I would have done this, but the quicklink requires a wrench to loosen it.

Mike


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Vapor Trail (5.9)
By: Mike Humphries When: Jan 24, 2011

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Comments: To echo the sentiments of the other condition report, the anchor's lowest chain links are severely worn. I would happily replace them if I had the experience and skills to take on such a task. I climbed this route yesterday and decided to rap from the link directly above the worn ones to get down.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Fission aka Ken T'ank (5.12c)
By: Mike Humphries When: Sep 28, 2010

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Comments: While climbing at the Primo area this past weekend (9/26/10), I noticed the good sidepull flake that is usually used to clip the second bolt has broken off of this climb. Any comments on a change in the difficulty of the route without this hold??


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Presto (5.12c)
By: Mike Humphries When: Sep 19, 2010

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Comments: The good news is the hanger on the last bolt is now facing down again, the bad news is it is definitely bending away from the wall. The bolt right before the alcove is rusty and not looking great as well. Considering the former protects the crux moves of the route, replacing this hanger would likely be a good idea. If it hasn't been replace beforehand, I'll take care of it (with help from a friend) next time I'm out there.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
free Woody woodColoradoMike HumphriesMay 28, 2014
re: looking for climbing partners.Colorado PartnersMike HumphriesMar 20, 2014
re: Favorite .12a/b routes in Clear Creek/surrounding area?ColoradoMike HumphriesNov 11, 2013
re: Boulder Canyon opens today at 5 pm!ColoradoMike HumphriesOct 8, 2013
re: Looking for a New RopeClimbing Gear ReviewsMike HumphriesFeb 1, 2011
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