Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Oct 16, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Mike Diesen


Point Rank: # 1,562
Total Points: 388
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
5 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mike Diesen been climbing?










Contributions


All 229 | Routes 14 | Areas 1 | Photos 42 | Page Improvements | Comments 23 | Posts 124 | Stars 23 | Ratings 2

Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : The Gap : Dihedral to Dike (5.9)
By: Mike Diesen When: Oct 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great route! First pitch dihedral is the obvious left face corner on the right side of the Gap wall. After about 40 feet it starts angling left ending at the obvious dike (hence the route's name). Alternatively, where it angles left, you can pull over it onto the right face and follow the chickenheads up and left to the dike. This does have a dicey slab move. Pitch 2 follows the dike up and right around the corner. You will then see an obvious 20 foot head wall on the left. There are several opt... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : Teenage Wasteland (Sweeny D... (5.10b)
By: Mike Diesen When: Apr 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Angel and I climbed this over the weekend (or at least part of it).We didn't know where it went after the second pitch so we made it up. Pretty sure we climbed the Sweeney direct route of wasteland to the top of the 4th pitch. 2 pitches of some very spectacular exposed moderate climbing. The loan bolt is half out of the wall and needs replaced. This variation protects very well (aside from the questionable bolt at the crux) and IMO is better climbing than going up the wasteland chimney (at least... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Fire Sermon (5.10-)
By: Mike Diesen When: Apr 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Contrary to Geir's description this route is spectacular from bottom to top. If you're going to take the time to do this route do not finish on Wasteland. The 4th pitch is a must do.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Mounds (5.10- X)
By: Mike Diesen When: May 4, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Note the route description and rating have been updated until I can get back out there to inspect the route further.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Mounds (5.10- X)
By: Mike Diesen When: May 4, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I appreciate everyones feedback. Some routes are great fun and some are too scary to go near. As individual climbers we all get to decide which routes fit into which category.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Unknown (Right of The Peace... (5.10b/c)
By: Mike Diesen When: Nov 29, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Probably one of the best routes on Sheepshead. Climbed it 3 times and it just gets better each time. Harder than Peacemaker with lots of varied climbing. Overhanging bulges, steep slab, little crack, thin face. You name it's there. Does require a light rack.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Photo
By: Mike Diesen When: Nov 26, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Actually G & P, Pop Rocks (only half could be done on very scary gear) and Wachamacallit were originally done on gear a year before any bolts were put in anywhere on Sweet Rock. I was trying to make it a safe gear climbing area but the gear was so marginal that I decided bolts were needed to make it a great place for the average climber to have fun.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Hot Tamale (5.10b/c)
By: Mike Diesen When: Dec 2, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Actually, I could see a pg13. If you blow the 3rd clip you could split you nuts wide open on the pointed ledge just below the 2nd bolt. I already did that. That's why I have no more balls!!! :-)


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Northwest Pinnacles : ... : Standard Route (5.8+ R)
By: Mike Diesen When: Oct 12, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Not as serious as the guide book suggests. Climb about 8 feet off the ground and there is a bomber tri-cam placement. About 5 feet further and place a bomber nut in a crack. After the ledge follow a nice crack that takes lots of pro to the top of the first belay. The second pitch felt a lot more serious and run out on old bolts and a few pieces. If you find a placement do not pass it up on this route. The rapel is probably closer to 175 feet I would suggest 2 60s not 50s. We thought a 70 would b... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Everlasting Gobstopper (5.10d)
By: Mike Diesen When: Aug 23, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Someone added a bolt so a CAM is no longer needed.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Cracker Jack (5.10c/d)
By: Mike Diesen When: Apr 30, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: So you're saying if I take a large fall that generates 6kn of force on my cam then the cam generates 25kn of force on the rock. Rocks tough so that doesn't bother me but remembering my college physics day this means that the rock generates an equal force back on the cam (25kn). Makes me wonder how a cam rated at 12kn holds a large fall. Maybe that is why I'm always more comfortable with a bomber nut placement.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Kit Kat (5.8)
By: Mike Diesen When: Apr 13, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Yes it was Daryl. He just earned himself 20 feet of penalty slack the next time he climbs.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Lemonhead (5.11b)
By: Mike Diesen When: Mar 30, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Super, super fun! Lots of varied climbing. Start with a hard roof then lieback the crack to the left or go up on impossible slab to the right. After lieback move right across hard thin slab to final roof. Good luck on the roof! Love this route!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock
By: Mike Diesen When: Mar 3, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: It's northwest facing so gets pm sun.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Atomic FireBall (5.10c/d)
By: Mike Diesen When: Feb 5, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Did a fun variation. Climb Kit Kat. After clipping the 4th bolt continue up the ramp. Finish on Fireball. The final roof just below the anchors is the funnest part of the climb. Makes a fun sustained 5.8 variation to the routes.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Whatchamacallit (5.8)
By: Mike Diesen When: Feb 4, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The second pitch follows bolts on the face right of a left leaning crack. When I originally climbed it I went up the crack on gear. As an alternative I left the crack as a gear lead. It goes at about 5.6 or easy 5.7.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Kit Kat (5.8)
By: Mike Diesen When: Jan 31, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The crux is the second to third bolt. Run out so really watch yourself. Probably closer to 5.8+. Maybe even pushing easy 5.9.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Atomic FireBall (5.10c/d)
By: Mike Diesen When: Jan 31, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The route really isn't sustained. It has a super hard (5.10+) move at the second bolt but the rest of the route is only 5.8. If you can get past the second bolt though the upper part is really fun.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Ewephoria (5.7)
By: Mike Diesen When: Nov 11, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: If you know how to lie-back the first pitch is probably no harder than 5.6 or 5.7. If you can't do lie-back probably want someone else to lead or you're going to grunt up it. Bring lots of small to medium cams for pitch one and you won't have any problem with protecting this pitch. Be sure to climb to the chicken heads above the dike before stepping across to the face. Makes the step across onto the face easier and allows better protection in the crack.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8) : Photo
By: Mike Diesen When: Oct 29, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Why would you chop the anchors??? I never understand why slung natural pro with a climbers garbage for repel is preferred over neat looking bolted repel stations that are well camouflaged from site.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Ides of Middlemarch (5.9+)
By: Mike Diesen When: May 19, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Route has been significantly improved. The roof at the first pitch is now protected by 3 new bolts and once over the roof a new 2 bolt direct has been added that is probably 10a. However you can still do the standard route. Each belay now has 2 bolt chain anchors. Very much improved. Due to dangerously loose blocks don't do the final pitch. Finish on Peacemaker. Give it a try. You won't be disappointed.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: Mike Diesen When: May 5, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: A great route with a wide variety of climbing. 16 draws, a couple slings for chicken heads on the last pitch and a full set of cams (couple small but mostly medium to large) is all that is needed.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Whale Dome : Moby Dick (5.8)
By: Mike Diesen When: Oct 25, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great easy multi-pitch climb. Good gear placements. Can be climbed in 3 pitches with a 70 meter rope. Good choice because you won't have to pack in an extra rope. The repel is about 33 meters so 70 meters will reach the ground with a few feet to spare. Consider having the first one to repel carry the rope with them. If the wind is blowing it will get caught around the corner.