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Wonderstuff


Member Since: Aug 20, 2009
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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dnoB ekiM
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Point Rank: # 600
Total Points: 1,112
Last Year: 186
Last 30 Days: 36
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1437 | Routes 52 | Areas 7 | Photos 77 | Page Improvements | Comments 102 | Posts 125 | Stars 657 | Ratings 417
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : Crescent Moon (5.12a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 24, 2015

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Comments: The bolt discussed above has been replaced with a stainless bolt provided by the ASCA. Please remember to donate to the ASCA.

The old bolt came out very easily and the old hole was reused/ redrilled for the new bolt.

Crescent Moon
Crescent Moon


New
New


Old
Old



Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : Ethan Screams (5.12c)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Silly little beta video:



Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : Crescent Moon (5.12a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: There are quite a few spinners at the pipeline. Most are clearly still bomber and the spin could be fixed with a slight hammer tap and a light tightening (but are not dangerous as is). However, I think the bolt before the crux on this route could actually need replacing. It's in some softer matrix, sticks out about 1/4-1/2 inch and the hole is slightly eroded near the edge. The bolt is a 2.25 inch by 3/8" powers.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : Laying Pipe (5.11c) : Photo
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: This pic is of Laying Pipe, not Cresesent Moon


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : Laying Pipe (5.11c) : Photo
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: This pic is of Laying Pipe, not Crescent Moon


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : 51 (Scoops) (5.12c)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: So classic and so unusual for Maple! Bouldery yet long...powerful yet technical...a fine line and hard for 12c IMHO! Worthwhile!! One of my favorites!


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Blue Sky Bluff
By: dnoB ekiM When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: Grant, Those signs must be new. The marked parking was the paved pullouts (maybe 100 yards before the big tree and closer to the visitor center) and not the area by the big tree at the start of the hike (that area has always been posted as no parking). If the pullouts are now marked as no parking...that's a new thing (and pretty consistent with some other odd-ball parking closures/destructions {i.e. Filling in the old cathedral rock parking with 4ft of dirt/rock} up there in recent years). I... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Aragon : Rodellar : ... : Bikini (5.11b)
By: dnoB ekiM When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: Totally agree with the description. I bet this was a great 5.10 when it was bolted 30 years ago (1985)! It is now probably the most polished route in the world every hold squeaks its so slippery. Given 6A (5.10A) in the new (black) guide! Probably closer to 11A in its current condition!


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Pyrenees : Santa Linya : ... : Inferno (5.11c)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Apr 18, 2015

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Comments: There is a large bee colony living in the hole with the small tree in it as of 4-17-2015. Hundreds of bees there. They were docile, but wise to avoid this route and the one to the right.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Margalef : ... : El dia de la bestia (5.11d)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: Far left route at Can Verdures 5.11D; Shares anchor with Baginades (10D).
Not too good. Small hold crux and a cruxy clip.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Margalef : ... : Chachi qui Chapi (5.11d)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Mar 13, 2015

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Comments: A classic! Not to be missed. An amazing line of pocket that don't hurt (like so many pockets do here). A pumpy little masterpiece!


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Margalef : ... : Estilson (5.12a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Mar 5, 2015

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Comments: Sharp! This thing is so painful through all the hard moves.


Location: NV : Arrow Canyon
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: Le Reve and La Lune are on the right side of the big dirty looking cave/hole that is across from and before the swamp cave (on the right as you approach the swamp cave).


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall
By: dnoB ekiM When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: VERY VERY good wall. Complex/confusing approach. Fine new addition. Really good rock!!!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Divine Comedy (5.10a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Great line on really good rock!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Jessica's Wall
By: dnoB ekiM When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Nice crag! Routes are short but very good on good rock! Complex approach (but maybe we did not know the best way). This and Dante's are GREAT! We missed The Chasm, but we did find and climb at the other wall (white/sandy) between Jessica's and Dante's. Three routes there that were a bit chossy (unlike the amazing rock at Jessica's and Dante's) but still quite fun. The steeper (right) route on that wall will be really good after a lot of traffic.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Jessica's Wall : Big Head (5.10a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Awesome! 4 stars if it weren't so short! Nice find of a crag!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : The Last Drag (5.10a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Oct 11, 2014

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Comments: Anchor is now Shut and Mussy Hook Combo.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Blame it on my ADD (5.9)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Oct 11, 2014

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Comments: Anchor is now a Shut and Mussy Hook combo.

These routes get a lot of traffic. The old lowering biner couldn't hack it. Mussy should last much longer and is, of course, easy to replace.

wear
wear


wear2
wear2



Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : The Big Short (5.8)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Oct 11, 2014

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Comments: Now has double mussy hook anchor.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Fall of Vegas (5.10a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Oct 11, 2014

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Comments: Anchors replaced with 1/2" x 4.5" stainless Powers. Bolts and hangers courtesy of ASCA. I also added Mussy hooks. The anchor is now a couple feet lower to prevent the rope rub issue caused by the old location.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector Shinto : Dope Shinto (5.12a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Classic! Amazing rock. I felt like the moves and clip of the last bolt were the crux...more so than the bottom (given the pump). Great great line!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Home Alone : Freaks and Phonies (5.10b)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: As good as the other routes here. Obviously far less traveled, but a worthwhile route!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Home Alone : Always Keep it Loaded (5.12a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Great route! Really hard clip for the 5th bolt. The crux is clipping this bolt. Not sure if this hold has broken over time. This whole area is great. The bolting is a bit more spacey than most of TS.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: +1 Ten Sleep Brewing Company!!

Great beer ( perhaps the best pale ale I have ever had), cool owner, superb location! Love it!
Also has showers and laundry if you are camping in the canyon!!!
Check it out!


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