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Wonderstuff


Member Since: Aug 20, 2009
Last Visit: 26 mins ago
Contact dnoB ekiM


Point Rank: # 648
Total Points: 938
Last Year: 124
Last 30 Days: 0
5 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has dnoB ekiM been climbing?










Contributions


All 1214 | Routes 48 | Areas 7 | Photos 52 | Page Improvments | Comments 83 | Posts 102 | Stars 562 | Ratings 360
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector Shinto : Dope Shinto (5.12a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Classic! Amazing rock. I felt like the moves and clip of the last bolt were the crux...more so than the bottom (given the pump). Great great line!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Home Alone : Freaks and Phonies (5.10b)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: As good as the other routes here. Obviously far less traveled, but a worthwhile route!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Home Alone : Always Keep it Loaded (5.12a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Great route! Really hard clip for the 5th bolt. The crux is clipping this bolt. Not sure if this hold has broken over time. This whole area is great. The bolting is a bit more spacey than most of TS.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: +1 Ten Sleep Brewing Company!!

Great beer ( perhaps the best pale ale I have ever had), cool owner, superb location! Love it!
Also has showers and laundry if you are camping in the canyon!!!
Check it out!


Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall : Wind and Rattlesnakes (5.12a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Great Route! Appears to be recently rebolted with glue-ins. Anyone know what type of bolt the second glue-in is? Really thin in comparison to the others. I'm not saying anything is wrong with that bolt; I'm just interested in what it is. Saw a similar one on another route or two at Wild Iris (first bolt of Limestone Cowboy).


Location: NV : Arrow Canyon
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: The entire left side (as you approach) is Wilderness for the whole length...from before the entrance to past the cave.


Location: Patrick R. M. : Personal Photo : Photo
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: This looks like Stay Foolish (the 11b). Congrats on the send!
Nice pic! You should post/link it to the page for this route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Amusement Park
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: John,

I generally agree with your commentary. I am a big proponent of high quality fixed gear. Stainless and good brands (Powers, Hilti, Fixe). For lowering mussys, given the general overkill beefiness and redundancy of the equipment for the given application (not to mention the lack of permanency)...I tend to disagree that they are inadequate.

However, everyone should make their own risk management decisions. For me, despite being a chicken on such things...I feel totally safe lowering o... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Amusement Park
By: dnoB ekiM When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: James,

No peeing match intended. Sorry if it sounded that way (tone is a hard thing to communicate or hear on the interwebs).

I was just defending Dan's work here. I agree it is a nice beginner crag, and he used good gear to equip it. (Ok, I am fan of stainless, but you can't convince most people that it matters in the desert. So, I get it.) After playing around with a variety of anchor options, I now prefer mussy's in most single pitch scenarios. When I get time to revisit some of my... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Amusement Park
By: dnoB ekiM When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Black Diamond Equipment Asia located in Zhuhai, China produces many of the company’s products.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Diamond_Equipment

Also true for many other manufacturer's


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Amusement Park
By: dnoB ekiM When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: You know most of your climbing gear is made in China too....right?
Those mussys could be wayyyyy under there intended rating and still be wayyyy stronger than needed for the forces they will see from lowering/rapping.

Those mussys are fine and a great option for this cliff.

Of course, you could always chip in and replace them with some finely made Draco lower-offs from Fixe. I'm sure Dan would not mind.

www.fixehardware.com/shop/anchors/fixe-ps-3/8-sport-anchor/ ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Hidden Falls Wall : Bigfoot - aka Sole Slasher (5.10a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Also a #1 or #2 Camelot will fit perfectly into a horizontal as you step off the slab on to the face.


Location: NV : Lone Mountain : La Madre (South) : Suburban Crag
By: dnoB ekiM When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: BEE WARNING: Suburban Crag has a bee colony about 15 feet left of the route "Direct TV". We saw about a hundred bees swarming around a flake...after about a dozen attacked my climbing partner at the anchor of Direct TV. He only got a couple real stings (embedded stingers), and several more taps. He quickly covered his head with his shirt and I lowered him fast. They did not pursue him too far (20 feet down) and the rest of the colony stayed put. We got out of there fast. So, there are some nice ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Conundrum Crag : Mr. Puppy (5.10c)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: This is not my route.

I did do it shortly after it was bolted (as it was still super crispy at the time). I did it again late last year (and it had cleaned up quite a bit). I felt like it was 11a, but it could certainly be a bit easier. I thought it had a very notable crux section and was a pretty good route.

There is also a route bolted near the same time (and based on the hardware by the same person) just left of Arrowhead Arete. I also thought it was 11a-ish and not quite as fun as th... more >>


Location: NV : Mormon Mountains : Campsite Canyon
By: dnoB ekiM When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: Harsh! The guy did ask on another page if anyone new the name and said he would update. I've been to this area several times over the last few years and was not keen to post it. I'm not sure posting such areas still under development is a good thing. One might argue that posting any area has its downfalls...kind of like guidebooks.

I assume this guy "found" this area kind of like I did a few years ago. It kind of calls to you from the I-15. He was probably just psyched about finding such a... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Viagra Falls (5.12a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: I think 16 years and hundreds of(probably more than a thousand)ascents would suggest it does not need a retrobolt. Bringing some midsized nuts or small cams will sew up the top...which I agree is a bit run. I think I brought a 0.4 (grey) C4 and used it. At the time, the top bolt was also pretty manky.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Amusement Park
By: dnoB ekiM When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: Good addition. Decent routes, well equipped and well camo'd, surprisingly clean. A good "first day outside" beginners crag.

#8 BD stopper for Demon Drop and .5 BD Camelot for Tilt A Whirl. You can also use that .5 Camelot on the top of Roller Coaster. 5.7 felt about right for most. Roller Coaster was definitely harder (and sandy) at the bottom. REALLY clean routes to be this new.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Shape of Things to Come (5.11a)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Adam. This one needed it for sure.


Location: mschlocker : Bolt_Replacement : Photo
By: dnoB ekiM When: Feb 13, 2014

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Comments: The reason your stainless bolts rust where the hammer hits it is that your hammer is carbon steel (with iron in it) and deposits a little bit of iron as it drives in the bolt. Aesthetically, it is unpleasing, but it is not a risk to further corrosion. I recently switched to a stainless hammer to avoid it, but it is overkill to do so.

www.sperkoengineering.com/html/Rust.pdf]]www.sperkoengineeri>>>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Monster Skank (5.13b)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Dec 25, 2013

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Comments: It gets almost no sun. Maybe 30 minutes when the sun is directly above it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Strategic Arms Wall : SALT (5.10+) : Photo
By: dnoB ekiM When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: Great looking wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Strategic Arms Wall
By: dnoB ekiM When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: Sounds rad Mike! Got pics?


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Robber's Roost : Highway Man (5.12a) : Photo
By: dnoB ekiM When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Awesome shot!


Location: NV : Lone Mountain : La Madre (South) : The Gun Club : Right (North) Wall : Twin Weapons of Mass Distra... (5.10)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Aug 31, 2013

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Comments: Did this again today; probably 5.10. The roof section is pretty hard.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Strip : Lime Kiln : The Horror Show (5.12c)
By: dnoB ekiM When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: Equipped by Bond and Babbitt in 2005. All but last 15 feet FA'd by Bond and Babbitt. Last 15 feet (and thus the last pitch) FA'd by Jon Groppenbacher in 2007ish.


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