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Location: AR
By: michaeltarne When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Chet, depending on where you are, there's a ton of awesome climbing right off of the river. For example, HCR is less than a ten minute drive from Steele Creek campgrounds.
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Location: Kansas : Swope Park
By: michaeltarne When: Jun 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The park's in Missouri, not in Kansas.
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Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Stack Rock
By: michaeltarne When: Jun 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: STACK ROCK NEEDS MORE TRAFFIC! Seriously though, you need to go climb there. It's really not as bad of a drive as they make it out to be (about the same distance from central AR as Sam's) but it's a lot more of an adventure. The approach is easier than Sam's, great quality rock, decent camping (or at least it will be again very soon,) and fun climbing- all it needs is more people! The trail mentioned to be under construction in the guidebook has long been finished, and a few of us are trying to ... more >>
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Cliffs of Insanity : Swamp Rat (5.8)
By: michaeltarne When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun incuts, good bolts, tons of exposure for HCR. Great view from the top.
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East : Gracie's Eight (5.8)
By: michaeltarne When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good solid 5.8. Some fun moves for sure.
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East : First Time Up (5.8+)
By: michaeltarne When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: First Time Up is a great route, uses big gear almost the whole way- I never placed anything smaller than a BD#2. Great flake, good rock and good pro everywhere except a short stretch in the middle.
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : Perfect Hair Forever (5.7)
By: michaeltarne When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think that the route described is Perfect Hair Forever- according to the guidebook and beta I've heard, this route is actually right at the entrance to the east end of the corridor, about 35', and I think four bolts. Great first lead, good chickenheads and good rock quality and good clipping stances. There's a tree sort of in front of the anchors, but it's not really in the way too much.
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : Cotton Candy (5.6)
By: michaeltarne When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Same as the other first comments, great first lead. Falling on this would suck but I don't think you'd be very likely to. Well bolted, and great chickenheads all the way up.
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Roman Wall : Ceasar's Tossed Salad (5.10c)
By: michaeltarne When: Feb 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the crux was lower, more like between the second and third bolts. Also, this is a long route for people like me who are used to the 50ish foot walls of most other places in the canyon. The last 5-10 feet are a little more bare than the rest of the top half and the slight overhang kills you after a while.
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
By: michaeltarne When: Feb 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You always have to pay, assuming you want the Ranch to stay open to climbing. It's $5 a day for the best sport climbing within a ten hour drive. You can afford it.
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : North Forty Boulders : Crack Ho (V2)
By: michaeltarne When: Feb 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Top out is sketch- be warned.
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Roman Wall
By: michaeltarne When: Feb 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My favorite area at HCR- not really any bad routes in this area; tons of great moderates on really good quality rock. Definitely worth hitting.
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Cliffs of Insanity
By: michaeltarne When: Feb 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good area for beginning leaders- lots of 5.6-5.8 routes (as in that's all that's here.) Nice, tall cliff too, and amazing view from the top. I usually hit Cliffs of Insanity to warm up for stuff on Roman Wall.
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : Season of the Storm (5.10a)
By: michaeltarne When: Jan 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun first 5.10 route- it's really only one hard move, which you can hit after you clip the bolt above it. The majority of the route is probably 5.8 climbing. I also don't think it's 65 feet- probably about 10 feet less than that.
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